Help, rough running engine in cold temps
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Regarding Hours and years of use.
I bought the machine in November of 2005
I have approximately 350 hours on the tractor.
I live in Southern Illinois which is generally a very hot and humid summer with mild, wet winters (but the occasional heavy gulf moisture induced snowfall like we just had) but late summer is prone to drought and therefore mowing can get very dusty.
I have semi-regularly checked the air filter and it never seemed to get terribly dirty BUT
Last summer (2012) our lawn mower broke and we replaced it with a RFM so the tractor has seen much more frequent use and often in very dusty conditions--definitely explains the air filter.
*by the way, the inside of the filter looks very quite and the internal filter-the one protected by the filter that is now oh-so dirty--looks absolutely pristine. Good news there.
Does anyone out there have experience with the fuel filter replacement. I have never done it personally. My old garden tractor was a breeze to change but that was an entirely different machine.
Again, any experience appreciated
SI2305
I bought the machine in November of 2005
I have approximately 350 hours on the tractor.
I live in Southern Illinois which is generally a very hot and humid summer with mild, wet winters (but the occasional heavy gulf moisture induced snowfall like we just had) but late summer is prone to drought and therefore mowing can get very dusty.
I have semi-regularly checked the air filter and it never seemed to get terribly dirty BUT
Last summer (2012) our lawn mower broke and we replaced it with a RFM so the tractor has seen much more frequent use and often in very dusty conditions--definitely explains the air filter.
*by the way, the inside of the filter looks very quite and the internal filter-the one protected by the filter that is now oh-so dirty--looks absolutely pristine. Good news there.
Does anyone out there have experience with the fuel filter replacement. I have never done it personally. My old garden tractor was a breeze to change but that was an entirely different machine.
Again, any experience appreciated
SI2305
Last edited:
pmhowe
Silver Member
I have no experience with Deere tractors. However, on most tractors, it is rather easy to change the fuel filter. For example, on my Kubota, the steps are 1) shut off fuel line, 2) unscrew fuel filter holder, catching any spilled fuel in a plastic cup, and making sure not to lose the o-ring that seals the container, 3) remove filter, 4) clean container, 5) install new filter, 6) reinstall. I'll bet it is similar on your tractor. Good luck
Coyote machine
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I'm not familiar with your machine's particulars, but, if you can locate the fuel filter and it's housing and poist some pics I'm sure we can walk you through it's replacement. Most are a smallish paper filter housed in a glass or metal bowl with a petcock that allows a run/shut /air setting(s) on the housing. If that type you could turn it to shut, remove and replace the old filter with a new one, clean the bowl out with a clean rag and reassemble. Then turn to on/run or similar, and crank engine. It may take a minute to fill the bowl, so crank 15 seconds, wait, then again until it starts. It's not difficult. Note the hours and log it where you can find it later. Do same with air filter. Using a RFM in dusty conditions means more frequent air filter changes and cleaning the fins of the radiator and any possible screens if front of the rad on a daily basis. Use a notebook to record maintenance intervals and such. Preventive reduces breakdown frequency!:thumbsup:
How did you get winterizer into engine while running?!
How did you get winterizer into engine while running?!
No direct experience with your model, but some general points are:
1) If JD has a parts diagram online, study it long enough (and/or find a parts counter guy you trust) to verify that you know what all the gaskets and O rings that go along with the filter are. This will enable you to determine if anything is missing from the filter kit (ahead of time), and if you need to order any gaskets separately. Some may say to re-use gaskets; with the cost of fuel I don't.
2) Include the gasket/seal for the water drain petcock too.
3) Procedurally, the only real trick to know (if you have some basic fuel/filter/gasket common sense already) is how to bleed the system after you have it back together. I don't know how to advise you, but someone on here will - if you don't get input here, start another thread "Make, Model - need instruction on how to bleed after Fuel Filter change". Some designs don't require bleeding, but it's good to verify this ahead of time.
N.B - I had an interesting PM discussion lately. Someone in the know verified pre-filling the filter/housing to be a bad idea - the risk of introducing particulate matter with that pre-fill is too high.
Rgds, D.
1) If JD has a parts diagram online, study it long enough (and/or find a parts counter guy you trust) to verify that you know what all the gaskets and O rings that go along with the filter are. This will enable you to determine if anything is missing from the filter kit (ahead of time), and if you need to order any gaskets separately. Some may say to re-use gaskets; with the cost of fuel I don't.
2) Include the gasket/seal for the water drain petcock too.
3) Procedurally, the only real trick to know (if you have some basic fuel/filter/gasket common sense already) is how to bleed the system after you have it back together. I don't know how to advise you, but someone on here will - if you don't get input here, start another thread "Make, Model - need instruction on how to bleed after Fuel Filter change". Some designs don't require bleeding, but it's good to verify this ahead of time.
N.B - I had an interesting PM discussion lately. Someone in the know verified pre-filling the filter/housing to be a bad idea - the risk of introducing particulate matter with that pre-fill is too high.
Rgds, D.
Coyote Machine and others
Thank you for all your input. I will get a picture, but it will have to be tomorrow as I need to get the kids fed and to bed. Right now my loader is parked with the bucket resting on the front blade to allow for drainage of snow as it melts--help prevent rust in the bucket. The downside is that the loader arms block the most convenient access to the filter. Tomorrow I will change that, get the hood up, the side grill off and get a good picture of the fuel filter. Still, thanks to all for the wealth of information and hopefully avoidance of a costly pickup by the local JD Dealer.
SPYDERLK, unfortunately, the JD2305 does not have a temp gage, only an idiot light so I can not easily verify a thermostat problem--unless you have some solution I don't know of.
Thanks much and more to come,
SI2305
Thank you for all your input. I will get a picture, but it will have to be tomorrow as I need to get the kids fed and to bed. Right now my loader is parked with the bucket resting on the front blade to allow for drainage of snow as it melts--help prevent rust in the bucket. The downside is that the loader arms block the most convenient access to the filter. Tomorrow I will change that, get the hood up, the side grill off and get a good picture of the fuel filter. Still, thanks to all for the wealth of information and hopefully avoidance of a costly pickup by the local JD Dealer.
SPYDERLK, unfortunately, the JD2305 does not have a temp gage, only an idiot light so I can not easily verify a thermostat problem--unless you have some solution I don't know of.
Thanks much and more to come,
SI2305
SPYDERLK
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S12305, For determining a reasonable temp accurately you could use an IR gun available fairly cheap from Harbor Freight. For ballpark just feel the top radiator hose when you think the engine has warmed. It should be pressurized and kinda hot. You can stab a bunch of holes in a piece of cardboard and stick it in front of your radiator to help the engine warm. Its hard to warm a diesel in winter without some work and a bad t-stat stuck open can throw it into wet stack poor running mode and you cant work it. Try blocking a lot of air at the radiator and monitor the hose and overflow tank. If the problem continues when its hot then it isnt wet stacking. I think it will go away. :crossfingers:
larry
larry
Interesting idea. I never even remotely thought of that diagnostic technique for checking a bad t-stat. I have had bad t-stats in cars before but they never caused poor engine performance, the engine just always ran a bit cooler than normal. Are diesels sufficiently different to cause this type of problem?
SI2305
SI2305
OK, I just tried to start the machine in the early morning and it is cold in the garage. It sputtered to life, then roared. I got off the machine to let it warm up (doors are open to avoid CO poisoning) went inside and then I heard it start to surge again. I was trying to check the t-stat theory. The machine is now off and I have a 500 watt light underneath to give some warmth. I will try again in a few minutes.
SI2305
SI2305