HELP RTV Electrical Problem

   / HELP RTV Electrical Problem
  • Thread Starter
#11  
I tested the alternator, started the engine, pulled off the positive battery cable and put an electrical load on the system. Zero volts on the red cable after the battery is disconnected, at rpms, under load. I guess sometime during the problem something got fried in the alternator. Right now everything is working fine, except the alternator. Worklights and spot lights are working fine, even with both on at the same time. No more sudden stops of the engine when the lights are turned on. I guess switching the ground for the front work lights did the trick for the intial problem. In the old days there used to be a separate voltage regulator mounted on the alternator, but it doesn't look like it now. The alternator looks like it is all mechanical parts that shouldn't have a problem. At this point, with everything else working fine I'm tempted to just load it up and take it to the dealership, unless you have another magic suggestion.
Thanks for all of your help.
AJDillon
 
   / HELP RTV Electrical Problem #12  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I tested the alternator, started the engine, pulled off the positive battery cable and put an electrical load on the system. Zero volts on the red cable after the battery is disconnected, at rpms, under load. I guess sometime during the problem something got fried in the alternator.

At this point, with everything else working fine I'm tempted to just load it up and take it to the dealership, unless you have another magic suggestion.
Thanks for all of your help.
AJDillon )</font>

Don't pack it up yet... It's a bit late and I can't dig into it now, but I think we can get it fixed. My initial though is it may not be a problem with the alternator itself. Once you disconnected the battery cable, something had to be supplying juice to run everything.

Check your PM.
Brian
 
   / HELP RTV Electrical Problem #13  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( In the old days there used to be a separate voltage regulator mounted on the alternator, but it doesn't look like it now.)</font>

The voltage regulator is an IC design and built inside the alternator.

OK... back to your current (no pun intended) problem.

Please check the 15 amp fuse in slot 8 next as it relates to the alternator. It also controls the brake lights if you have someone that can check the lights while you step on the pedal. If that one is OK, pull the 60 amp slow-blow fuse in slot 2. I don't think it has a sight window so you may need to test with an ohmmeter.

Brian
 
   / HELP RTV Electrical Problem
  • Thread Starter
#14  
You are the man, that fuse was blown and replacing it got me back up to 14 volts at the battery. BUT, turning on the worklights blew the 5 amp panel fuse again. The work lights worked just fine when I initially installed them. The rear lights are powered off the red/yellow accessory wire on the accessory plug, grounded to the black wire in that plug. The power line goes under the cab to the center pole of my two way switch, with one side of the switch returning to the lights in back. The front lights get power from the other side of the switch (only front or only rear lights get power) with a chassis ground for the front lights. I have also tapped into the 10 amp circuit for the cigarette lighter, put a separate 4 circuit mini blade circuit box under the front hood. I use it to power my Bumper Buddy feeder, a small 12 volt fan and my new GoLight spotlight, each through a separate smaller fuse. They get their grounds from the cigarette lighter ground, extended up to a little terminal strip I mounted on top of my glove box. They all work perfectly. I'm thinking maybe I reroute the ground for the front lights to the black wire in the accessory plug and see if that solves the problem before I run out of fuses ;-)
AJDillon
 
   / HELP RTV Electrical Problem
  • Thread Starter
#15  
Just tested my theory set forth in the last post and VICTORY!!!
Switching the ground for the front lights back to the same ground used for the rear lights solves the blown 5 amp panel fuse problems. KennyD sollved that part of the problem and Brian got me through the rest of it. I am really glad I found this board, everyone has been a big help, with my selection of the Kubota, accessories and now problem solving. Thanks for everything. When I get it all buttoned up I'll post a few pictures so you guys can see the monster you created.
AJDillon
 
   / HELP RTV Electrical Problem #16  
Glad it was just the fuse (again...).

May I propose you don't connect to anything under the dash and home run power all the way from the battery?

power = current * voltage.

55w (1 light) = 4.5 amp * 12. A 5 amp fuse will probably continue to blow. 2 lights + any one other thing may blow a 10 amp.

For alternatives to the 5 and 10 amp, and if you don't want to pull a wire from the battery, you may want to look at tapping into fuse # 12 (15 amp for a work light) but honestly don't know where the wiring ends to tap into that one.

I also thought I saw something in a wiring diagram where wiring is pulled for a front winch. Can't find it again and I don't see anything in the fuse box for that cable (if it exists).

I ran some heavy wire directly from the battery through a 50 amp fuse I installed then ran a new block of fuses for everything I installed. Haven't blown anything.

Brian
 
   / HELP RTV Electrical Problem
  • Thread Starter
#17  
Thanks again. The worklights (front and rear) are both powered off the accessory plug in the rear that powers up with the installed relay. Now that they have the same ground everything seems to be working fine. The feeder, small fan and spot light are working fine off the cigarette lighter circuit. It's fused at 10 amps and the only thing on there that pulls any current at all is the spot light. I have the feeder and fan fused at 5 amps and the spot at 10 amps. The spot pulls 5.5 amps according to GoLight. It is really neat. You wire it directly to a battery or ignition source. The switching relay is built into the light itself. Then you turn it on and off and control it with a wireless control that mounts on the dash. It will rotate 370 degrees and tilt 135 degrees. It feels like RoboCop when it swivels around. You can also buy an infrared lens cover for it that might be handy for varmint hunters.
Again, thanks for all of your help.
If you ever get to Texas the first 5 or 6 are on me.
AJDillon
 
   / HELP RTV Electrical Problem #18  
Andrew,

Glad we got you all fixed up. That's what these forums are for. In the future, maybe you'll have an opportunity to reciprocate. If not, I'll take you up on your offer of adult beverages next time I'm in TX.

Brian
 

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