HELP to make decision on what I need

[jeff9366]

I am leaning towards actually going with upper end sub compact, around 25-27 hp (which I was assured by JD guy, for example, will easily pull 48'' BB) and LEARNING tractor. That regrading project - DIY as much as I can, what I can't, outsource.
In this manner, I can figure tractors, figure what is that I really need from them and can do with them, then maybe upgrade to compact in few years.
I am planning on retiring, or partially retiring, in 3 yrs. THEN I may actually really need a "real" tractor, as time on hand will let me spend it onto property projects.

Problem with mowing: VERY uneven property. Especially the lower tier. Small hills and valleys, rain runts, mole mounds. Mower has to creep through that area at walking speed, or it is impossible and destructive on the machine.

All subcompact tractors have 7" to 9" ground clearance beneath the tractor. The way you have described your land, 9" ground clearance will have your tractor high-centered and immobilized often.

I think you need 12"+ of ground clearance, which includes compact tractors.

Tractor weight determines 70% of what implement a tractor can pull. Tire selection is another 10%. Horsepower to pull a Box Blade is only 20% factor. ((This assumes 4-WD is standard (usually) or ordered as an option.))

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Heavier tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Heavier tractors have larger diameter wheels/tires, increasing ground clearance. Heavier tractors with large diameter wheels/tires have more tractive power pulling ground contact implements, pushing a loader bucket into dirt and pushing snow. Larger wheels and tires permit heavier tractors to bridge holes, ruts and tree debris with less operator perturbation.

 

[ukrkoz]

So it has to be lower end compact? It WILL have to go through mud and puddles. Nothing major deep yet... ATV went there no questions asked, only wiggled its *** a few times.

 

[jeff9366]

ATV are much lighter than tractors. ATVs do not have heavy Loaders nor gallons of hydraulic fluid. ATVs do not mount 400 pound to 1,000 pound implements behind.

 

[ukrkoz]

Does this mean that I am looking at high chance of tractor being stuck in mud then? It's pretty soupy there till May. For about an acre. And that's exactly where I need 4x4 in form that will not get stuck.
Btw, I have no intentions to mow with FEL on. I won't be able to turn in some spots. Stripped down to tractor/mower only.

 

[jeff9366]

Tractors get stuck in mud fairly easily. Those oversize rear wheels which provide pulling power like to spin in mud, creating rear wheel ruts which a tractor may not be able to crawl out of.

It is a tractor joke that 4-WD allows a tractor operator to get deeper mired than 2-WD.

Few would intentionally take a tractor into bog conditions.

 

[ukrkoz]

Oh, no, no. That just killed it. Something like this in video WILL happen. I know what I am talking about as I had to pull my mowers out 3 or 4 times.
Some areas muddy sod is 5-6 inches deep.

Winch Rescue! Compact Tractor Tackles Mud, Mountains, and Snake - YouTube

Ok. Well, that pretty much closed the discussion. I am very glad I caught this on time with your help. ATV or SxS with tow behind flail mower it is. I ran my Foreman through them puddles in my property mid engine deep...
Now I get it why neighbor, who has likely a 40-50Hp tractor, does not really run it into his wetlands till they mostly dry.

 

[cathy liebchen]

if you have wetlands with 5 inches of muddy sod I would just leave it alone and not try to mow that

 

[bcp]

Mud differs a lot from place to place, but my experience is that you need to either be light enough to stay on top, or heavy, with tall tires to reach the solid bottom. Light can't do as much work, heavy leaves big ruts.

I would try really hard to find a way to not mow it at all, or not when wet. Why must it be mowed? Put up some signs that say "conservation area."

(My property is similar to yours in size and description, and I don't own a mower. I refuse to be a slave to grass! )

Bruce

 

[ukrkoz]

Can't help.
1. it's UGLY
2. I like mowing. I like anything related to machinery. Makes me feel good. Everyone has his crazy side, right?
Bruce, we actually tried to let it be. I could stand it till maybe late July and then mowed it. It's sore to my eyes, can't help. Like a rock in the shoe walking. I'd rather hassle with sickle and weed wacker, but get it down.

 

[ukrkoz]

I just bought 2018 Pioneer 1000 EPS.
So far, very happy with it. Goes through any muddy place an dour pond without even noticing it. Tows 2000, so it should plenty for my mowing needs and attachments. Plenty agri attachments available. Hauls 1500. Dump bed.
I think I go it. What I need.

Thank you all for your help. I am very glad we caught "stuck in mud" concern on time. That would have been devastating, to sign contract and get stuck.
I'm retiring, iof all goes well, in 4 yrs. I'll look into tractors then.