Help w/ 425 mods and PTO add-ons

[agjones]

Hi Gang--

After about a month w/ the 425, and about 70 hours on the clock, I'm still thrilled with the purchase. I do land maintenance, event site work, trail and race course construction/maint. Of course, that's in addition to the trailer shuffling, lifting, mowing and tooth brushing. <--I've gotten really good w/ the stumper!

I'm new to the hydraulic world and could use some direction/guidance on whether and how to connect some non-standard stuff.

Although I sometimes remove ROPS to stow the PT in my Sprinter van for city or straightforward mower work, much of the work I do makes ROPS a must have. Since I am tall AND added a suspension seat, AND wear a hard hat...ROPS needs a lift kit. Four inches would be great (so would adjustable). In the process of lifting the ROPS, I'd like to add something(like polycarbonate) between me and all the stuff that I either drive through OR throw at myself w/ the PT. Plus, a Jerry Can holder to one side and small tool carrier to the other.

Now unusual attachments:

Hydraulic Chainsaw, I have one. I want to use it w/ PT. Not for a logging operation. But for on demand cutting and planing for greenwood construction. It's a Fairmont saw that can handle the PT flow but only 2000psi. If you guys don't scare the pee out of me for asking...how do I handle the PSI difference and then how long a hose can I build?

Hydraulic generator, this would be a fantastic addition for me. 2-3000W ~20A generators require up to 7gpm flow and 2000psi. I'm hoping the 2000psi limitation can be solved for the chainsaw (above) and applied to both. It appears, I can actually fit one under the engine cover to store(not operate). May need to heatshield...but it fits. They are cheap on eBay...so can I do it?

Winch 12V Electric - I have a cheapo china tool winch that I use to nudge trees, lift bridges, run block/tackle lifts & get my vehicles out of holes. I plan to store it on the PT as others do their toolbox. It has it's own battery. I'd like the PT to charge the battery. Can it do that?

Ok. Ok. I know I'm asking a lot of this tool carrier. But its job is to carry the tools I need. If I'm working way down a trail, I have to carry everything I could need. My support vehicle can not get everywhere that I can get the PT (at least not until I come back!).

In a separate post, I'll be adding some photos and narrative of trail building w/ my PT.

Thanks guys, as I learn more I'll start helping answer forum questions etc. still in question mode.

 

[cqaigy2]

Welcome aboard!
I have a 422 and would love the extra the 425 has, but i wouldn't trade it for anything else. There are a number of threads here about different mods people have done, pretty good ones. I believe i saw a tool carrier that was something like a wooden box that fit into the bucket and could be unloaded at the job site. I can spell hydraulic and use it to a certain extent but there are some real wizards here. On the recharging end, how much current can your alternator source? Might work, i'd look into something like they use on rec vehicles that separate the batteries from each other so you don't accidentally discharge them both. As far as using my pt to run a gen set, I personally would purchase one for a few hundred as apposed to putting hours on my expensive engine and hydraulic pump, but sometime it just make sense. Post pics!

 

[MossRoad]

Hi Gang--

After about a month w/ the 425, and about 70 hours on the clock, I'm still thrilled with the purchase. I do land maintenance, event site work, trail and race course construction/maint. Of course, that's in addition to the trailer shuffling, lifting, mowing and tooth brushing. <--I've gotten really good w/ the stumper!

I'm new to the hydraulic world and could use some direction/guidance on whether and how to connect some non-standard stuff.

Although I sometimes remove ROPS to stow the PT in my Sprinter van for city or straightforward mower work, much of the work I do makes ROPS a must have. Since I am tall AND added a suspension seat, AND wear a hard hat...ROPS needs a lift kit. Four inches would be great (so would adjustable). In the process of lifting the ROPS, I'd like to add something(like polycarbonate) between me and all the stuff that I either drive through OR throw at myself w/ the PT. Plus, a Jerry Can holder to one side and small tool carrier to the other.

Now unusual attachments:

Hydraulic Chainsaw, I have one. I want to use it w/ PT. Not for a logging operation. But for on demand cutting and planing for greenwood construction. It's a Fairmont saw that can handle the PT flow but only 2000psi. If you guys don't scare the pee out of me for asking...how do I handle the PSI difference and then how long a hose can I build?

Hydraulic generator, this would be a fantastic addition for me. 2-3000W ~20A generators require up to 7gpm flow and 2000psi. I'm hoping the 2000psi limitation can be solved for the chainsaw (above) and applied to both. It appears, I can actually fit one under the engine cover to store(not operate). May need to heatshield...but it fits. They are cheap on eBay...so can I do it?

Winch 12V Electric - I have a cheapo china tool winch that I use to nudge trees, lift bridges, run block/tackle lifts & get my vehicles out of holes. I plan to store it on the PT as others do their toolbox. It has it's own battery. I'd like the PT to charge the battery. Can it do that?

Ok. Ok. I know I'm asking a lot of this tool carrier. But its job is to carry the tools I need. If I'm working way down a trail, I have to carry everything I could need. My support vehicle can not get everywhere that I can get the PT (at least not until I come back!).

In a separate post, I'll be adding some photos and narrative of trail building w/ my PT.

Thanks guys, as I learn more I'll start helping answer forum questions etc. still in question mode.

When I purchased my PT425 my goal was to eliminate as many other engine-powered tools as I could, as in lawn mower, lawn tractor, snow thrower, etc.... However, the one thing I will not eliminate is a separately powered generator. Why? Because when I plug something in and need to move the tractor, I have to unplug it. Now, my needs for a generator are 99% for storm outages where the generator is powering the house. Once in a while, I need to use power tools in the woods, so I put the generator on the forks and off I go. Perhaps your needs are much different. I'd be concerned with getting enough RPM to the generator and maintaining it. As I'm not familiar with a hydraulic generator, perhaps you can post a link to some specs for one so we can analyse it with you?

Electric winch on a PT425? The batteries are small and so is the charging system. Your winch has its own battery, so that may help, but the charging system on the small engine is less than ideal if you're going to use the winch for any amount of time.

They make hydraulic winches, however, the ones I've seen (Milemarker, I believe) require less PSI as do your other attachments on your wish list.

If you can get the PSI lowered, you can run all of those. Perhaps J_J will chime in with some ideas regarding that.

 

[ponytug]

I would also suggest a separate generator for the reasons above. If you find yourself needing just a little bit of 110V power occasionally, I would put an inverter on the PT. If you find yourself needing lots of power, or power for a lot of the time, I'd go for the generator.

For the hydraulic saw, you can get a pressure regulator from central surplus to limit the auxiliary hydraulics. I would suggest that you "T" into the the PTO line, add a ball valve and a pressure regulator and run the relief back to the PTO return. You can run any length of hose that you want, just bear in mind that whatever is in the hose will get added to the PT's hydraulic fluid. If it were me, I would add a high pressure full flow filter on the return to protect the PT hydraulics from any debris. I've seen hydraulic saws in action with the local highway tree trimming crew, and they are amazing, but I would need hoses that are way too long.

For the winch, you probably want to install a high power socket on the PT, controlled by a high amperage switch, and you should be able to charge it. I would only leave it connected while the PT is running, to make sure that you don't run down the PT's battery.

If you are needing forward protection, I suspect that you will be happier in the long run with wire mesh, rather than polycarbonate. The latter scratches fairly easily and will crack. I would consider taking a screen from a BobCat and modifying it to fit.

If you are out in the woods so long that you need refueling, I would consider a small ATV trailer for your tools and fuel. I think that if you are in brush, you probably won't be happy with having them strapped to your PT, since they are going to be sticking out and getting beat upon and knocked. Just my $0.02...

I hope that this helps. Have fun!

I look forward to seeing your trail building photos and experiences.

All the best,

Peter

 

[MossRoad]

One note about screens, expanded steel, etc...

I had a tractor with a full cab. Nothing came through that and stabbed me ever. But every window on it was cracked from working in the woods. I was tempted to replace the glass with expanded steel mesh many times but never did. Now that I have the PT425, every once in a while a very pointy stick will come between the ROPs bar and joystick or steering wheel and then stab me. Most of the time, its just a little poke. However, I have imagined a branch coming in through expanded steel and being held rigid then going right through me. YIKES! So really think about screens before doing that.

 

[J_J]

Check and see if the hyd chain saw is open center or closed center or both. It may have a selection switch.

Install a relief valve and set to 2000 psi. The return will go back to tank.

 

[SpringHollow]

i often pull the walking beam trailer behind my PT. I think it is in my avatar picture. If not, I know it is on the website in my link.

Ken

 

[agjones]

J.J.& others--Thanks for your input. I appreciate the experience you share with this forum.

My saw indeed has a selection switch. for OC v. CC. If it's not to much to ask, could you post a bit more detail for me. Is there a recommended relief valve? Where should I put it on my 425 too keep it out of the way? Some one else mentioned having to deal with the hydfluid volume held in the long lines, 20ish feet. How should this be handled?

Check and see if the hyd chain saw is open center or closed center or both. It may have a selection switch.

Install a relief valve and set to 2000 psi. The return will go back to tank.

 

[SpringHollow]

if you put quick connects on your lines so that they seal when you disconnect the saw, I do not see what the issue is with the long lines other than needing to add a little more fluid to the tank.

Ken

 

[J_J]

J.J.& others--Thanks for your input. I appreciate the experience you share with this forum.

My saw indeed has a selection switch. for OC v. CC. If it's not to much to ask, could you post a bit more detail for me. Is there a recommended relief valve? Where should I put it on my 425 too keep it out of the way? Some one else mentioned having to deal with the hyd fluid volume held in the long lines, 20ish feet. How should this be handled?

Just curl the hoses on the lift arms and leave them there or remove.

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-1556&catname=hydraulic

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-4127&catname=hydraulic

On my 1445, for the PTO, I have two 3/8 QD on the front lower part, and one case drain.

I would install a male QD on the In port of the relief valve, and a female QD on the OUT port of the relief valve, and a male QD on the in hose to the cutter. Tank port goes to tank or a case drain .

If you use the PTO QD's, you are full flow. If you want slower operation, reduce the engine rpm.

or

Use the fluid going to the QA circuit and bungee the lever.