Help with 12v conversion on JD 3020 Diesel

[macecase]

I purchased a 12v upgrade kit to move away from 24v as my starter was on it's last leg.

I followed the kit's instructions and nothing happens. I hooked everything up correctly, I believe.

Can you help by watching this video I made outlining what goes where and see if I missed anything?

1. Does this look like it is hooked up correctly? Am I missing anything?
2. The new starter has the pulley from the old generator and it is lining up correctly. But, the belt isn't big enough. The istructions don't mention the need for a new belt. So, just wondering if I'm missing anything obvious before I buy a new belt.

 

[Doughknob]

I’m missing something. 12V starter connected to a 24V battery setup?

 

[macecase]

I’m missing something. 12V starter connected to a 24V battery setup?

Two 12v Batteries in parrallel to keep 12v but double amps.

Old way was two 12v in series to raise volatage to 24v. Since I already had two 12v, I ought to keep them to up the amps...

 

[Tx Jim]

1st question is neutral start switch still attached to wiring & in operable condition? My next question is does added starter solenoid(relay) have good ground connection to tractor frame?

 

[Doughknob]

My guess is that black connector that appears to be either the neutral safety or the clutch depress safety. Guess pins/sockets in there not making proper full contact…..

 

[Tx Jim]

Doughknob
Neutral start switch on JD 3020 with Snycro-range trans is located on RH side of trans case which is not shown in macecase's video.

 

[Norm W]

Start at the starter solenoid, energize it with a "Hot" wire from the (+) battery. If the starter turns over, move to the second solenoid (on the sheet metal). Energize it with the "Hot" wire. If the starter turns over you at least know that part of your setup works. Then trace with a test light the circuits back to the key switch. Eliminate the solenoids as a problem first, then check the switch circuits back to the key.

 

[lpakiz]

I'm not sure you need that solenoid (heavy relay) on the side of the tractor. Whatever wire is supposed to activate that heavy relay when you attempt to start it from the key switch could (and almost always does) go direct to the small "activate" terminal on the starter. Is that something left over from the 12-24 system?
In other words, when you hit the key to start, the power that little wire carries ( from key switch to heavy relay) can go direct to the starter.

Give us a better look at the face of the starter motor solenoid itself. A still pic will suffice. Some of them have 1 small terminal, some have 2.
Be SURE you have it in NUETRAL!

Now, on the starter, if only one small terminal, energize it with a small jumper wire from the big battery terminal to the small terminal. An old screwdriver works too, if your careful.

If you have 2 small terminals on the starter, one needs to be a ground. Sometimes manufacturers route that ground terminal thru some safety interlock switches, which must ALL be satisfied before it will allow the starter solenoid to engage to crank the engine over. You can temporarily ground that terminal direct to the frame or negative battery terminal. That bypasses all those safety switches. Then jump the hot, as above (this also bypasses any safety switches on the positive side) and see if it cranks.

MAKE SURE ITS IN NEUTRAL, because it could start and run you over. You would not be the first...

 

[macecase]

Since I posted this, I broke my foot! Sorry but I'll have to try the suggestions and answer questions when I can; probably next week. I really appreciate you all helping to figure this out!! I didn't want to be rude not replying.

PS: It is my right foot so I'll still be able to clutch when I get this tractor working!

 

[Tx Jim]

Sorry to hear about your broken foot. Thanks for your update.