Help with 3 Point hitch...

   / Help with 3 Point hitch... #1  

chico922

Member
Joined
Jun 4, 2003
Messages
25
Location
Rockford,IL
Tractor
John deere 755
I've had my JD 755 for almost 3 or 4 mounths now. I bouhgt it to do some landscpaeing and sell it when I'm done. I am renting a box blade from a local rental store and want to know how to make it work with my tractor. Always happy for helpful tips too. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Thanks
 
   / Help with 3 Point hitch... #2  
Chico:

I have found the primary key to using a box blade to be the length of the toplink. Shortening the toplink will tip the box forward, causing the front blade to dig in for digging and moving dirt. Lengthening the toplink until both the front and rear blades contact level ground at the same time is good for moving loose material from one place to another without digging. Slowly lifting the 3-pt hitch as you are moving will spread the material, while lifting the hitch quickly will leave a pile. Finally, lengthening the toplink until the rear blade contacts the ground first and the front blade is slightly off the ground is best for leveling and final smoothing.

If you are using the teeth (scarifiers) to loosen the material before you move it, the length of the toplink will also control how deep the teeth dig, in addition to the settings on the teeth - down to dig, up to smooth or move material.

Lastly, it is probably best to take small bites, rather than trying to move the whole hill in one scoop. For the final leveling/smoothing operation, traveling in circles, figure 8's, "walking ovals" or some other method of hitting all of the area from a number of different angles will help to move material from the high spots and drop it into the low spots.

Takes, a lot of practice, but hey - seat time is good, right? /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Help with 3 Point hitch... #3  
I agree with everything you just said. I wish I had read it BEFORE I bought the box blade. I figured all of that out on my own with a little (OK, a lot) of practice. All in all, after I figured out what I was doing , it turned out real nice.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I have found the primary key to using a box blade to be the length of the toplink. Shortening the toplink will tip the box forward, causing the front blade to dig in for digging and moving dirt. Lengthening the toplink until both the front and rear blades contact level ground at the same time is good for moving loose material from one place to another without digging. Slowly lifting the 3-pt hitch as you are moving will spread the material, while lifting the hitch quickly will leave a pile. Finally, lengthening the toplink until the rear blade contacts the ground first and the front blade is slightly off the ground is best for leveling and final smoothing.

If you are using the teeth (scarifiers) to loosen the material before you move it, the length of the toplink will also control how deep the teeth dig, in addition to the settings on the teeth - down to dig, up to smooth or move material.

Lastly, it is probably best to take small bites, rather than trying to move the whole hill in one scoop. For the final leveling/smoothing operation, traveling in circles, figure 8's, "walking ovals" or some other method of hitting all of the area from a number of different angles will help to move material from the high spots and drop it into the low spots.
)</font>
 
   / Help with 3 Point hitch... #4  
I would add to try the box without scarifiers first. Depending on how much you have to move it may or may not move enough. But using scarifiers adds a whole new level of difficulty as now you are working with much more loose soft dirt. A lot harder to get/keep it level. You also add settling to the process and much easier to have a muddy mess if it rains heavily.
 
   / Help with 3 Point hitch... #5  
I should probably add that the other key to success is waiting for the right soil moisture conditions. If the soil is too wet, it will ball up and stick to the box blade and make a muddy mess. If it is too dry, the ground will either be too hard to work, or everything will be so powdery ( is that a word?) that it will blow away in the slightest breeze. Judicious watering can help a dry soil condition, but time and dry weather is the only help for too wet conditions. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
   / Help with 3 Point hitch... #6  
<font color="blue"> </font> "I bought it to do some landscpaeing and sell it when I'm done."
<font color="blue"> </font>
What? Sell your tractor? /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif The more seat time you get, the more you realize that not only will you want to KEEP the tractor, but you'll BUY implements instead of renting them!!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
The joys of tractor ownership.... /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
   / Help with 3 Point hitch...
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Thanks for all your advice. I found a 16 inch toplink to use. And yes I will sell my tractor when I'm done. It is too big for me but, I will buy another. I was think a JD 2210.
 
 

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