Help with attaching and detaching..

[GarageSmoker]

Yes I am a tractor newbie who can afford the land and the tools but don't know squat about tractors. Fine..I have said it so maybe someone will take pity and help me along now.

I tried to get the cutter off the L3010 today and I will admit defeat..at least in accomplishing the task in the normal fashion. I just could NOT, no matter what I tried, no matter how many of the manuals I read, no matter how much I cursed, prayed, looked into the sky, took short walks, get the right lower link off of it.

Finally in desperation, I actually took the hitch off of the cutter so I could free it of the tractor. Of course it was pouring rain by that time so I got good and soaked which had the beneficial by-product of cooling me down.

I have the tractor out in the back corner of the property and it is by no means level. Is THAT the problem? Do I need to get some flat pieces of cement and level those to rest the corners of the cutter on?

Will I be able to get the box blade on tomorrow which is sitting there close by where the dealer dropped it? (can a box blade and cutter actually laugh at you? I think I heard it today..may have been the wife though)

The manuals say..attach it. Detach it. Wonderful. I did a lot of cranking on the right link and at no point could I get it to free up enough to slide off. The left one did.

What am I doing wrong? This is not a quiz.. I really need help here.

GS

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color=blue>...I just could NOT, no matter what I tried, no matter how many of the manuals I read, no matter how much I cursed, prayed, looked into the sky, took short walks, get the right lower link off of it...</font color=blue>

Well... it appears from the above list... you read your manuals and did all the right things... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Gentle... be extra gentle... a little finesse when backing up the tractor to "release" the pressure on the lift pins to the cutter... you may have to get on and off the tractor a dozen times... think of it like great exercise... 'cause it is.../w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

You move the tractor just a "smidgen" either forward or backwards to release the lift arm pressure on one pin at a time... also move the lift arm up/down a hair for the same reason...

Practice, practice, practice... and you'll soon be an ole pro...

Remember the two key things.... keep things level (as best you can)... and be gentle... just a slight touch on movement will do it... /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[chim]

GS, my rotary cutter is the most difficult implement to deal with. It's mostly because it has but one wheel, and doesn't move around for alignment like a RFM. In another room here, I was given the advice to get something to pry things arouind with, and believe a 4' piece of 2x4 will help a lot. I'll try that next time I need the rotary.

Another approach would be to park it on an old tire. I parked a RFM on an old tire just to keep it off the ground last Winter. When it came time to hook it up this Spring, the sponginess of the tire helped me get it aligned more easily. The RFM's with four wheels are the easiest for on and off to start with, and there's a big benefit in having level ground (or concrete) to work from.

I keep one older deck at Mom's for doing the rough stuff, and park it under an overhang of a barn. The ground is uneven, and although it's the lighter deck, it is always a bit difficult to get on. When I head there to mow, I have a Landpride RFM on for the trip, and do the nicer grass first. Then the LP gets dropped on a concrete pad, and the old deck is used for the rest. When that's done, I swap decks again and take the LP home. The LP is real easy on and off on both the concrete and a level spot at home................chim

 

[Hawkflyer]

Good advice! I'de also get the 2x4 and a bigger hammer! Just kidding. while my RFM is only a 5 foot it is still a handfull to shove around alone. Sometimes you just have to do it anyhow.It is VERY helpful if you drop and pickup your implements from level ground. Failing that, you can get them on and off but it takes a little more effort.

 

[Darren]

The lift arms can be a bear to hook up or break loose at times. I do when necessary use a plastic sledge hammer designed for breaking loose truck wheels to nudge an arm off or on. It helps to make sure you've done everything to allow lateral movement of the arms. I've replaced cotter pins with quick release fasteners so I can remove anything associated with the arms including the stabilizers.

For some implements, I've had special removable pins made that give me an edge such as being extra long and tapered at the end to hammer and a larger head to get a good grip. It helps to connect and disconnect the lift arm with the crank last so you have the adjustment as your ace in the hole. Adjusting the top link can help. In some instances reversing the direction of one pin on the implement so they're both pointing the same way can make it easier.

I park some implements on wood blocks to either level them or in one case raise one side to make it easier to connect. I think we've all spent way too much quality time wrestling stuff on and off on occasion. With practice it'll get easier.

 

[JohnMiller3]

<font color=blue>...plastic sledge hammer ...</font color=blue>

Darren...

I know things are moving at a rapid pace for hi-tech.. is this the same as a "dead blow" hammer...? /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Fly_Rodr]

I use the FEL to make fine adjustments ( raise a little or back and forth) and also a 6' pry bar, with the bar you dont have to bang it just use the leverage.

 

[Fly_Rodr]

I use the FEL to make fine adjustments ( raise a little or back and forth) and also a 6' pry bar, with the bar you don't have to bang it just use the leverage.

 

[normde2001]

It sounds like you are doing most of it right, however you need to run, not walk, to your nearest autoparts store and purchase a cheap rubber mallet. You will find it to be a most useful tool when dealing with tractors and implements.

 

[Darren]

I don't think it's a dead blow because the head isn't loaded with anything. The handle, 30" long, and head are molded in one piece. It's not as heavy as a regular metal sledge hammer. I think the long handle is what does the job. You can get a decent swing to apply some persuasion and not mar anything.

The one I have is an orange Snap-on. The color makes it easy to find when you're working on something the weeds have started to take over. The first time I saw one a mechanic used it to break a set of dual wheels free from a hub. It was love at first sight.