Help with attaching and detaching..
- Thread starter GarageSmoker
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bnixon
Gold Member
I guess I am missing what the problem is here. I have been taking bush hogs on and off of tractors since I was 9 years old and it has never taken me more than 4-5 minutes. Even on uneven ground.
What exactly is giving you a hard time? the PTO hook-up or the 3PH hook up?
On uneven ground here is the procedure I use to use on a 6' bushhog attaching it to a Massey Feguson 135.
1) Back up as straight as possible to the cutter
2) As you back up lower the lift arms to just below the lowest pin and back up so that the lift arm stops just below the pin.
3) use a board or stick to push the arm out as you slowly lift the position control. Stop when it is in line with the pin.
4) Jump off the tractor, push on the arm and put in your safety pin.
5) now do the other arm. If you started with the lower arm you should be able to lift the 3PH and line up the other arm in the same manner. If you need to you can also move the tractor forward or back to line up the last link. put the safety pin in.
6) Adjust the top link so that it lines up with the top pin hole and insert pin and safety clip.
7) Attach PTO (This is usually what took the most time) by spinning the shaft to line up with the spline on the PTO. Push pin or pull back collar and slide on. (Always grease the PTO shaft and U-joint to make it slide on easier)
8) Once it is on. Pull it out until it clicks into place. (Always, Always, Always do this step) to prevent it from coming off while in operation.
I hope that this method will work for you all as well as it has worked for me. I can only remember a few times having to break out the old pipe and pry on an implement.
What exactly is giving you a hard time? the PTO hook-up or the 3PH hook up?
On uneven ground here is the procedure I use to use on a 6' bushhog attaching it to a Massey Feguson 135.
1) Back up as straight as possible to the cutter
2) As you back up lower the lift arms to just below the lowest pin and back up so that the lift arm stops just below the pin.
3) use a board or stick to push the arm out as you slowly lift the position control. Stop when it is in line with the pin.
4) Jump off the tractor, push on the arm and put in your safety pin.
5) now do the other arm. If you started with the lower arm you should be able to lift the 3PH and line up the other arm in the same manner. If you need to you can also move the tractor forward or back to line up the last link. put the safety pin in.
6) Adjust the top link so that it lines up with the top pin hole and insert pin and safety clip.
7) Attach PTO (This is usually what took the most time) by spinning the shaft to line up with the spline on the PTO. Push pin or pull back collar and slide on. (Always grease the PTO shaft and U-joint to make it slide on easier)
8) Once it is on. Pull it out until it clicks into place. (Always, Always, Always do this step) to prevent it from coming off while in operation.
I hope that this method will work for you all as well as it has worked for me. I can only remember a few times having to break out the old pipe and pry on an implement.
OK, I suppose I will have to let you all in on the patented JTMethod©®.
1. Tractor Placement: Back tractor straight up to implement. Look down at the drawbar and align it with the top link pin on the implement. Continue backing up until both of the lower lift arms are resting on the implement lift pins. If they are not square to the tractor (and they won't be) make sure that the hole for at least one is directly above the implement pin (Very important and takes practice). Once the lift arms are supported by the implement lower the 3pt control all the way. I generally let the lift arms sway freely until I am ready to pick the implement up.
2. Getting the First Pin In: Assuming your implement is level pull both lift arms out and slide at least one side on the pin (refer to alignment requirements in step 1). IF YOU LINED UP THE HOLE WELL THIS SHOULD NOT REQUIRE ANY KICKING/BEATING/CURSING. If it is not lined up well move the tractor to compensate. If you can get the pin started in the hole but it will not slide on pull the tractor forward a fraction of an inch; this should release the force on the pin and the arm should slide on (this only works if the pins are square to the implement). Now move the tractor forward or reverse (preferrably forward) to align the other hole and repeat (I have had the second arm slide on the pin by itself doing this).
If your implement is NOT level (and it won't be) with the lower arms resting on the implement pins determine which side is lower and hook the HIGHER one on first. Once the higher pin is in gently raise the 3pt hitch until the lower pin is lined up (move tractor forward if necessary) and slide it on. This method only leaves a little play so the more level your implement is when you start the better.
3. Hook On PTO: Self explanitory.
4. Hook On Top Link: With implement resting on ground adjust top link length until it fits. Slide pins in.
Notes:
- I prefer to have the tractor too far back so it is always moving forward to engage the lifting pins
- As the lift arm slides on the pin this tends to push the implement back relative to the tractor. Try moving the tractor forward a tiny bit (I watch the implement pins and when they lean slightly forward is best).
- For best results make sure your lift arms sway freely and the sockets in the arms rotate freely.
- This method has been perfected with thousands of field tests on implements too big to move by hand. I make no guarentees but it works for me.
- Next time I hook something up I will try and get pictures
Good Luck!
JT
1. Tractor Placement: Back tractor straight up to implement. Look down at the drawbar and align it with the top link pin on the implement. Continue backing up until both of the lower lift arms are resting on the implement lift pins. If they are not square to the tractor (and they won't be) make sure that the hole for at least one is directly above the implement pin (Very important and takes practice). Once the lift arms are supported by the implement lower the 3pt control all the way. I generally let the lift arms sway freely until I am ready to pick the implement up.
2. Getting the First Pin In: Assuming your implement is level pull both lift arms out and slide at least one side on the pin (refer to alignment requirements in step 1). IF YOU LINED UP THE HOLE WELL THIS SHOULD NOT REQUIRE ANY KICKING/BEATING/CURSING. If it is not lined up well move the tractor to compensate. If you can get the pin started in the hole but it will not slide on pull the tractor forward a fraction of an inch; this should release the force on the pin and the arm should slide on (this only works if the pins are square to the implement). Now move the tractor forward or reverse (preferrably forward) to align the other hole and repeat (I have had the second arm slide on the pin by itself doing this).
If your implement is NOT level (and it won't be) with the lower arms resting on the implement pins determine which side is lower and hook the HIGHER one on first. Once the higher pin is in gently raise the 3pt hitch until the lower pin is lined up (move tractor forward if necessary) and slide it on. This method only leaves a little play so the more level your implement is when you start the better.
3. Hook On PTO: Self explanitory.
4. Hook On Top Link: With implement resting on ground adjust top link length until it fits. Slide pins in.
Notes:
- I prefer to have the tractor too far back so it is always moving forward to engage the lifting pins
- As the lift arm slides on the pin this tends to push the implement back relative to the tractor. Try moving the tractor forward a tiny bit (I watch the implement pins and when they lean slightly forward is best).
- For best results make sure your lift arms sway freely and the sockets in the arms rotate freely.
- This method has been perfected with thousands of field tests on implements too big to move by hand. I make no guarentees but it works for me.
- Next time I hook something up I will try and get pictures
Good Luck!
JT
RobS
Super Member
I'm a bit late to this thread and I see all sorts of good advice. If you are parking on uneven, sidesloping land I suspect your implement is swaying all the way to one side when you lower it. That could prevent the downhill lift arm from moving out enough to disengage from the implement pin.
You might snug up your check chains before lowering to center the implement as best as possible. Of course, level land is your best bet as others have mentioned /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
You might snug up your check chains before lowering to center the implement as best as possible. Of course, level land is your best bet as others have mentioned /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
MikePA
Super Moderator
I had to relocate my rotary cutter's storage spot from a nice, flat, firm (packed stone) area in front of the barn (can you imagine - my wife didn't like the cutter or the post hole digger sitting in front of the barn - jeez /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif) to a spot in the corner of a field. The spot in the field is somewhat flat, but not nearly as firm as the stone. So, instead of throwing out the pallet my boom pole arrived on, I relocated the pallet to the field and the rotary cutter sits on the pallet. Not only does this raise the cutter up a bit, it keeps it off the ground, the only thing that sits on the ground is the tail wheel. The other feature of my TC25D that makes hook ups easier are the extendable lower arms on the 3ph. These alone are worth the extra for the 'D' model. Oh, using the pallet also allowed me to relocate the pallet...which was also sitting in front of the barn. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
patrickg
Veteran Member
No, do mention it but wait your turn a line is forming to tell me how dumb I am. I had a neighbor who had no hands and could cast a conventional reel better than anyone else I ever saw but that didn't help me, inspired and challenged me, but didn't help.
Patrick
Patrick
ScottAR
Veteran Member
I usually back up in low gear from several feet to get it aligned. Give yourself plenty of room and if it doesn't look right, drive up 6-8ft and try again. When I feel pretty good about alignment, I put the FEL bucket in the 6 o'clock position (almost full dump but not all the way) and plant it on the ground. I leave the tractor in neutral and at idle. If I need to nudge the tractor forward or backward, I just use the bucket control while standing beside the tire. (note: DO NOT stand between the implement and the tire or in front of the tire)
This works pretty well for me.
This works pretty well for me.
patrickg
Veteran Member
Thanks to all for sharing their success stories with me. In my case, positioning the tractor isn't the bottle neck, I can do that with great precision and hooking up the first lower link is trivial. Then the "FUN" starts. I can get to here in a couple minutes of the time I first start to back up, no sweat. With the rearward slanting lower pins on the brush hog and its weight (it is very very heavy duty), quite a load for my tractor, manuevering to get the second lower link on is a difficult proposition even with clubs, prybars, etc. With about 2 min of assistance from a "warm body" I can finish the job that solo takes me 30-40 min usually.
Note: a warm body is someone with at least three fingers on at least one hand, that works, and knows enough to pick up something when told.
Patrick
Note: a warm body is someone with at least three fingers on at least one hand, that works, and knows enough to pick up something when told.
Patrick
bgott
Veteran Member
You might already be doing this but it took me a while to figure it out. Hook up the left link first and then use the adjustable side link to help with the right side. I can usually spot the left side right on the pin and than use the telescoping link and the side link to get the right side without too much problem.
