Help with chipper blade adjustment.

[wedge40]

Ok I've finally got the chipper together. Takes a tad more time when you're just one person. Now have a stupid question about the chipper blade adjustment.
Just where is this gap measured from?

Here is the view from the PTO side of the chipper?
As I look at this photo does the flywheel turn clockwise or counter clockwise?

Here is from the chipper side.

Or am I going to set the distance between the blade and flywheel?

Sorry for the stupid question.

Also the plane of the two drive pulleys is out by a about .050". Is this a big deal or should I take the belts off and re-align the pulley's?

TIA.

Wedge

 

[driver444]

If you are looking at the PTO shaft on the chipper from the angle of your first picture, it would spin counterclockwise. (the PTO shaft on the tractor turns clockwise as you are looking at it.


Also, I would absolutely align the belts. That's true with any belts, or you'll wear the edges out much faster, and on v-belts, it's those edges that drive the pulley.

Not sure on the blade adjustment.

 

[weldingisfun]

The blade gap adjustment is between the edge of the blade, on the flywheel, and the anvil, fastened to the frame, behind your feed roller. You will have to disconnect the tension springs on the roller and raise it up to do this. The gap is probably .010" to .025". Check the manual. I found an old ID card that is perfect to use setting the blade gap on my Jinma Chipper.

 

[JerryK]

If you are in no hurry to use the chipper, and have the time...... I would pull the feed roller completly out of the unit before you try to adjust the blade clearance. That will give you more room to work, and you should disassemble and grease the feed roller driveline, anyway. You should also check the to make sure the set screws on the pillow blocks [the two bearings that the cutting disk's shaft rotate on] are tight. And also go thru the rest of the nuts/bolts everywhere else and check. Before you attempt to set the clearance, you want to make sure the two cutter blades are torqued to spec's. Then adjust the stationary anvil they cut against to the proper gap. I back the anvil way back and snug up the bolts, then slowly pry it forward with a large screwdriver until it is close. You also want to check the gap with both blades, in case there is a little runout between the two. I also replaced the cheapo nylon metric locking nuts with US made metric locking nuts. The ones that came with the unit had small 'flats' that the wrench/socket made contact, the US ones were beefier in this area. Good luck, Jerry...

 

[wedge40]

I've read the manual. Looked at the parts list. No anvil listed. I'm new to this so please bear with me. Can you describe the location of the anvil. Second photo I posted shows blade from the chute side. Anvil the milled gap at the top or the huge hole at the bottom? I plan on using a 4" joint knife and grind the edge square.. That should give me a gap of about 0.020. The spec in the manual is 0.010 and 0.030. That will be right in the middle.

Sorry for making this so difficult, but it would help if the manual had a just few more photos or drawings. Especially in the flywheel/anvil area. Also blow up of all the locations that should be greased. As I figure this out I'll post photos so any other newbie can "see" what needs to be done.
Thanks for the replies so far. I'd love to work on the thing today, but it's raining and the outdoors is my garage for now.

Wedge

 

[JerryK]

That is one of the two reversable knife blades that is in the picture. The hole you see at the front edge of the knife is where the 'chips' exit after they are cut. The chips end up being blown out the chute by some cast in fan blades at the rear of the disk [tractor side]. The anvil, or stationary whatever you want to call it, is located at the bottom of the chute. If you take your feed roller guard off [I recommend removing the feed roller, too] and look down, you will see the stationary part and it's three bolts that hold it in place. You can also look underneath the chute, and see the three nylon lock nuts that are associated with this stationary part [ and the adjustment slots]. As you look into the chute, the disk rotates clockwise, and the knife blades cut downward on the wood. It's also a good idea to trace around both of your hands before you start and compare the before outline with the after outline when you are done working on it. Goot luck !!!! let us know how it turns out. Jerry

 

[wedge40]

Update. Even though it's dipped back down about 32 I couldn't stand not knowing. I went outside, took the springs off and lifted the feed roller. Hey guess what. There's an anvil at the bottom of the chute. The blade being vertical and anvil being horizontal.

Here is a couple of photos.

Now all I have to do is wait for warm/dry weather. I need a set of metric allen wrenches too. Guess I'll stop by Sears on the way home from work tomorrow.

Oh ya.. I think my gap is about 1/4". And there's wood in the system so they must test these things before they head out the door.


Wedge

 

[weldingisfun]

With a 1/4" gap, you will be smashing the wood to pieces.
Your chipper looks to be a Jinma, if so, your gap setting is .010" to .030". If your chipper is like mine, your blades will not be exactly the same. Rotate the flywheel to find the one with the least amount of clearance and set your gap on that one. If you set the one with the most clearance, the other will hit the anvil. Trust me on this one. You can, if you have the time, inclination and means, shim your blades. I lacked the inclination and mine works just fine.
You will also find that this is easiest done with two people. It can be done by yourself, but a helper will make the task much easier.
Hope this helps. Good luck and have fun with the chipper. I have used mine about 30 hours with out any major problems.

 

[wedge40]

With a 1/4" gap, you will be smashing the wood to pieces.
Your chipper looks to be a Jinma, if so, your gap setting is .010" to .030". If your chipper is like mine, your blades will not be exactly the same. Rotate the flywheel to find the one with the least amount of clearance and set your gap on that one. If you set the one with the most clearance, the other will hit the anvil. Trust me on this one. You can, if you have the time, inclination and means, shim your blades. I lacked the inclination and mine works just fine.
You will also find that this is easiest done with two people. It can be done by yourself, but a helper will make the task much easier.
Hope this helps. Good luck and have fun with the chipper. I have used mine about 30 hours with out any major problems.

How long will it take to adjust the blades with two people. I will have a buddy out to see and help with the chipping the first time. I want to get the pulley aligned and everything greased. Then set the blades and start to get rid of the piles of brush I've collected over the years. I dont think I've mentioned but I live in the middle of 11 acres of woods, with about 1 1/2 acres cleared.

Wedge

 

[weldingisfun]

How long will it take to adjust the blades with two people. I will have a buddy out to see and help with the chipping the first time. I want to get the pulley aligned and everything greased. Then set the blades and start to get rid of the piles of brush I've collected over the years. I dont think I've mentioned but I live in the middle of 11 acres of woods, with about 1 1/2 acres cleared.

Wedge

Doing it for the first time, maybe 20 - 30 minutes. This is assuming you have all the required tools on hand.

 

[brandoro]

I'll jump in and be the safety "advisor" here. Make sure, once you have the chipper set up and running, you wear eye protection. A face shield might be okay, I had a sore lip one day from a small branch that slapped me on the face, left a mark on my safety glasses so glad I had those on. The other thing is hearing protection. Chipping green stuff isn't too bad but chipping dry stuff, like what has been in a pile for a year or two, sounds like a jack hammer inside a water tank. Don't even think about reaching inside the chute if something besides branches goes in there. YOu can buy more gloves, safety glasses or another cell phone.
If you plug the chipper up, shut the tractor off and put the key in your pocket before digging in there to clear it out.
Other than that chipping stuff is good clean fun.

 

[wedge40]

Thanks Rod. Good advice.. I have the hearing protection and some basic eye Portection.. I'm thinking of a full face shield. Oh and lets not forget the fact that I always respect the machinary I'm working around. One time years ago, I got hit in the chest with a piece of wood from kickback on the table saw. Today my arms dont seem long enough when I use the saw. Untill I use it once or twice I will be "afraid' of the chipper, but I'm sure some of that fear will dissapear, but all of it will never go away.

Wedge

 

[brandoro]

Respect for the machinery is always good, there is a lot of power there.
The literature for my chipper said it would chip up to 4" round. Anything over about 2-1/2" looks like firewood to me but, I had to try it. I picked a small tree that looked 4" at the stump and maybe 18 feet long, zipped it off with the chainsaw and slid the big end down the chute. Seconds later it was reduced to a surprisingly small pile of chips. Something to think about if you are ever tempted to reach into that chute for any reason-unless the tractor is shut off and the key is in your pocket.

 

[Affordable]

We use a quarter to measure the gap between the blade and the anvil,make sure to align pulleys and check all the set screws.

Tommy
Affordable Tractor Sales

 

[wedge40]

Respect for the machinery is always good, there is a lot of power there.
Something to think about if you are ever tempted to reach into that chute for any reason-unless the tractor is shut off and the key is in your pocket.

Not only do I have fear and respect for machinery, but the last thing I'd ever want is to be put on the list for a darwin award.

How thick is a quarter? I'm still pretty sure I'll use a metal scraper with the handle removed.

Wedge

 

[pennwalk]

I use my chainsaw helmet when I chip and I am always glad I did when I hear the branches slapping the back of the helmet, the face screen, the ear muffs.

Chris

 

[weldingisfun]

I set the anvil to blade gap on my chipper using an old plastic ID card. I believe it is .015", if I remember correctly.

 

[wedge40]

I'm looking for something plastic or metal that can be used as a gauge, so I wont have to worry about the blades messing it up. Right now the weather is suppose to be nice this weekend, so maybe Saturday I can finish getting the chipper ready. I have the knives to adjust and the pulley's to align. since this will be done alone I'm sure it'll take a bit longer.

Wedge

 

[SPYDERLK]

I'm looking for something plastic or metal that can be used as a gauge, so I wont have to worry about the blades messing it up. Right now the weather is suppose to be nice this weekend, so maybe Saturday I can finish getting the chipper ready. I have the knives to djust and the pulley's to align. since this will be done alone I'm sure it'll take a bit longer.

Wedge

You only adjust the position of the anvil knife. The cutters are in a fixed position on the flywheel.
larry

 

[srjones]

Ok, I can't take it anymore. Could someone explain the logic around the anvil blade gap? I keep reading two different numbers with about a 10x difference. The first gap seems to be in the shavings range (0.015"-0.035"). The second gap is in the chipping range (0.25"-0.30"). I haven't adjusted the anvils on my JM-6 and they're set at .25" and they seem to work just fine.

Is this just a preference on the finished product? Nice smooth shavings vs. course chip? Smaller shavings have more surface area...dry faster...are easier on the feet of livestock?

I can't imagine it's a performance thing, considering that a 0.025" gap would need to make 10 cuts to equal the volume of 1 cut at a 0.25"

Am I just missing something here?

Thanks in advance,

-Steve