Help with enclosed pole barn build.

[BamaB99]

Looking to set 6x6x16 posts at 8 feet apart. Then sandwich 2x10 headers at front and rear pole sets with screws / 1/2 bolts. I知 not planning on notching.

Forgive the dumb questions.

Will the metal hit the bolt heads when it is placed? Also on the sides will the side headers only be a single board due to the front and rear sandwiched headers?

To accommodate a 10x10 roll up, what does the poles on each side need to be spaced at?

 

[RNeumann]

How to Build a Garage - YouTube

The scale is different but the concepts should be the same. Obviously your questions about details all depend on how you plan on building it. It’s difficult to explain construction details without plans, pictures and or videos. If the videos don’t answer your questions maybe a quick drawing or a photo would help.

 

[KennyG]

In the long run you will be a lot happier if you notch the poles for the exterior header. If you don't, the bolts will need to be recessed for clearance for the metal siding.

Not quite sure what you are calling front and rear. The headers should be sandwiched on the walls that support the trusses. The non-support walls can be a single header but often are sandwiched also.

To calculate the spacing start with the recommended opening for the door you are using. Then allow for studding to support a header for the door. If you notch the poles, they can provide door header support. There are many ways to build this and you just have to choose one and work it out.

 

[BamaB99]

In the long run you will be a lot happier if you notch the poles for the exterior header. If you don't, the bolts will need to be recessed for clearance for the metal siding.

Not quite sure what you are calling front and rear. The headers should be sandwiched on the walls that support the trusses. The non-support walls can be a single header but often are sandwiched also.

To calculate the spacing start with the recommended opening for the door you are using. Then allow for studding to support a header for the door. If you notch the poles, they can provide door header support. There are many ways to build this and you just have to choose one and work it out.

Recessing bolts makes sense.

Instead of notching I am going to put a 2x6 piece of board under the the headers attached to the poles.

I guess my question was how do you sandwich all sides of the pole barn, length and width? Once you sandwich 2 sides, you can only attach a single board to the outsides of the other 2 sides. If that makes sense.

I値l provide a sketch shortly.

 

[J.Walker]

I used 2x10 headers inside and outside then used carriage bolts to sandwich everything together. With 1 foot overhangs the bolts heads are inside the soffits.

 

[s219]

Headers are not needed on the gable walls, so you shouldn't even need to worry about it. Eave walls get headers and purlins, gable walls only get purlins.

I would notch in the header, but use a double 2x header and only notch in the first board. The second board will then sit proud of the post and be inline with the wall purlins.

I attached pictures of pole barn frames using both trusses and rafters.

 

[s219]

Instead of notching I am going to put a 2x6 piece of board under the the headers attached to the poles.

A ledge board is fine when you can nail it in over many attachment points. However, a ledge board only attached to posts spaced 8' apart isn't doing anything for you at all (assuming no limits from grain supporting fasteners). You may as well attach the header only.

 

[KennyG]

A ledge board is fine when you can nail it in over many attachment points. However, a ledge board only attached to posts spaced 8' apart isn't doing anything for you at all (assuming no limits from grain supporting fasteners). You may as well attach the header only.

I don't think he meant a ledger board. I think he was referring to a vertical board to provide support at each post. My pole barn is quite old and was built without bolts or notches. The 4x6 posts have 2x4's vertically under each header between the header and the top girt. It works but I wouldn't do it this way today and I don't think it would be code now in our area.

 

[Diggin It]

Rather than start another thread, I'll glom onto this one for a while until I'm ready to start erecting something of my own.

No codes or inspections here, so I can do what I want, or what I find most cost effective that won't collapse on itself.

As a non carpenter, most of the terms used don't mean much to me. My plan is posts on 6' centers with 2xs nailed on the outside at 24OC I haven't decided on 2x4 or 2x6 yet. Headers will be either 2x6 or 2x8. I was only planning on one on the outside, but may add one inside as well. Plan was/is to use pole barn ring shank nails instead of lags. May use a nail gun to drive a few common nails first to hold things in place before driving the bigger ones. Haven't decided yet on trusses vs stick built. Pre-fab may be stronger, but they're more difficult for one person to put up and you lose potential overhead storage space.

Roof panels will be 5 rib or corrugated steel. I'm stuck on the exterior walls though. Steel 5 rib panels area finished both sides but are a bit more expensive now plus you need special screws and trim pieces. Primed wood panels like T1-11 are less costly and you can use standard screws and trim, but they are supposed to be painted. which adds cost. They're also prone to bug and rot damage.

 

[Zebrafive]

Rather than start another thread, I'll glom onto this one for a while until I'm ready to start erecting something of my own.

No codes or inspections here, so I can do what I want, or what I find most cost effective that won't collapse on itself.

As a non carpenter, most of the terms used don't mean much to me. My plan is posts on 6' centers with 2xs nailed on the outside at 24OC I haven't decided on 2x4 or 2x6 yet. Headers will be either 2x6 or 2x8. I was only planning on one on the outside, but may add one inside as well. Plan was/is to use pole barn ring shank nails instead of lags. May use a nail gun to drive a few common nails first to hold things in place before driving the bigger ones. Haven't decided yet on trusses vs stick built. Pre-fab may be stronger, but they're more difficult for one person to put up and you lose potential overhead storage space.

Roof panels will be 5 rib or corrugated steel. I'm stuck on the exterior walls though. Steel 5 rib panels area finished both sides but are a bit more expensive now plus you need special screws and trim pieces. Primed wood panels like T1-11 are less costly and you can use standard screws and trim, but they are supposed to be painted. which adds cost. They're also prone to bug and rot damage.

I would use trusses even if I had to pay a contractor to install them.