Help with GC1723 starting

   / Help with GC1723 starting #1  

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MF255
Hi all! Have GC 1725m that was starting and operating just fine. Turned the key one day and just got click. Checked battery and needed charged. Charged it and it started right up. Left charger on overnight went out next day and nothing but click. Put in new battery showing 12.7 volts and still click. It’s in neutral. Seat switch is bypassed. PTO is off. Checked fuses and all ok. Can jumper solenoid to starter and starts right up. What else can I check besides neutral and pto safety switches? Thanks!
 
   / Help with GC1723 starting #3  
Hi all! Have GC 1725m that was starting and operating just fine. Turned the key one day and just got click. Checked battery and needed charged. Charged it and it started right up. Left charger on overnight went out next day and nothing but click. Put in new battery showing 12.7 volts and still click. It’s in neutral. Seat switch is bypassed. PTO is off. Checked fuses and all ok. Can jumper solenoid to starter and starts right up. What else can I check besides neutral and pto safety switches? Thanks!
You think.....
 
   / Help with GC1723 starting #4  
Checking all those things mentioned = good of course but you have mentioned what I think is a clue to your issue: [Note this has been written up in other threads on TBN about starting issues esp with Kubota]

You said you connected the battery charger (to an already well charged battery) and the thing started right up. That is a big clue I think to what has been an issue with MANY small tractors incl. Deere and Kubota. Works like this -- you get a small voltage drop across 6 or 8 safety interconnect switches (the seat, the transmission being out of gear, the PTO not engaged, etc.) required to enable starting. All those voltage drops add up sequentially to drop battery voltage low enough to where it is barely enough to operate the solenoid by the time it gets down the chain that far. You may get a click or some noise but no cranking. Key fact is that the charger output is MORE than 12v so when you attach the charger instead of applying 12v you are applying around 13.8v. That overcomes the disease of many small voltage drops on the way to the solenoid. [I did that on my BX2200 Kubota for a couple of years before finally having a dealer install a 'hard start' kit. Problem is GONE now. ]

Of course cleaning every contact, connection, etc. always helps but just improves it rather than fixing it. Deere and Kubota dealers sell what Kubota calls a "hard start kit" which bypasses all those small voltage drops, uses the "all is OK signal" from your start key switch to trigger an added relay which then applies 100% of the battery voltage to the solenoid and fixes the issue. Many savvy folks have put that in as a "do it yourself" mod. Some have added an extra starter switch that does the same bypass thing, etc.
 
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   / Help with GC1723 starting #5  
The "Hard Start" kit JWR describes is a very simple modification to the starting system, and really should be the standard OEM design. I highly recommend fabbing one up for very little cost in the relay, a little wire, and connectors.
IMG_4445.jpg
 
   / Help with GC1723 starting #7  
IF your 1723 is wired anything like a 1705/10/15/20 the should be a relay directly controlling the starter solenoid, energised from "ignition switch" (after possible through various safety switches).... IF you user manual has wiring diagram, follow the path.... THis is a unmarked relay on my 1705/10/15/20 diagram , but funny thing is on the 17XX there is a additional relay marked "Starter Relay (#23) ) .... And if you 1723 wiring diagram is similar to my 1715 there are several errors in the diagram and parts descriptions....


Scan_20240822.jpg
 
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   / Help with GC1723 starting #8  
But Wrangler -- if the OP had that relay directly feeding the solenoid he would not have this hesitancy to start problem in the first place , would he ? I'm think8ng his machine does not have that relay (?)
 
   / Help with GC1723 starting #9  
It could be that there is a relay ahead of the one that operate the relay for solenoid that is not operating .... THE path may be a bit elusive and we do not have wiring diagram

This is why we need to see wiring diagram of the 1723...... My example may just be a idea of what it might be as the 1723 is a later/updated edition of the 1705-20 edition.... The first thing one needs to establish is what is the "click" he is experiencing when he turns the key, there is (or may be) several relays that operate with turn of the key to start position...
 
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