Help with leaky roof..

[Bird]

He said this is a mobile home and I don't think I've ever seen one with an attic that you could be into. They may, or may not, have the HVAC ductwork in the "attic", but no crawl space. It's also very unlikely to have a ridge vent; that would be unusual in a mobile or manufactured home. However, it's quite common for them to staple clear plastic on part of the roof to prevent wind damage in transit. BIG staples are used, so when the plastic is removed, someone needs to remove those staples and caulk the holes.

Of course, once the OSB gets wet and sags, I don't know of much you can do except some major replacement of a section of the OSB, shingles, etc. Perhaps a "patch" on the bottom side of the OSB???

 

[Amontilado]

Had this sort of problem about two years ago. The leak came though the oiled paper (not tar ) and between two OSB sheets, soaking the ceiling in my daughter's room. After starting to pull shingles up where the water came through between the sheets, I traced the leak upwards and angled towards one end to the roof cap, about ten feet away. Replaced the shingles, pulling the plastic off the tar strip under the shingles (which some feel that removing the strip isn't necessary; why is there in the first place ).
My suggestion would be to start where the leak os coming though the OSB, and start pulling shingles to see where the leak came from.

Steve

 

[George2615]

I just went through this a few months ago. My double wide modular is 21 years old, has a ridge vent, and had been reshingled twice (Only got 10 plus years out of my each set of 25 and 30 year shingles). The cheap 1/2" OSB they used for roof sheathing had gotten wet and sagged over years of rain, snow, and ice dams. In my part of the country the shingles don't stand up well when you have to get on the roof and shovel off snow every year. This time I did the whole thing. Stripped off the entire roof, Doubled up and added more bracing on the 2x3 rafters for strength, (yes, older double wides and modulars use 2x3's), Blew in 14 bags of insulation on top of the rolled fiberglass that what was already there, Installed 5/8" exterior plywood, put down snow and ice barrier shield, and topped it off like Tig did with a dark brown metal roof with ridge vent. I hope I'll get a few more years out of this.

As others have said, check your vent pipes, boots, and around the chimney for signs of aging / cracking. HD or Lowes sells roof sealer in gallon cans. I have used the black wet patch roof cement with good results. It can be applied with a brush, putty knife, or trowel. If you have a ridge vent you can pull it off to inspect underneath. It can be replaced with a bundle or two on new shingles or even cheaper to buy a wider metal ridge vent to put down. Roof leaks can be hard to trace on a double wides since you can't get in to see where its leaking from. Hope you find your leak and get it sealed before any more damage is done.

 

[mopower440]

well, as i said, i made a good size hole in the sheetrock ceiling and directly above that spot, there is a darker spot on the OSB that looks like it may have leaked, BUt, like stated earlier, the actual spot water is getting under the shingle could be many feet away and running between the shingles and OSB then dripping in, so how do you find the spot its actually getting through the shingles?

 

[mopower440]

Well, i got up on the roof and THINK i may have found the problem, the shingle directly on top of the OSB that looks to have been wet has a hole through it, looks like someone started to nail through it, the hole doesnt go into the OSB, but i think the water goes through the hole in the shingle and went through the wood, Now, rather than tear up the shingle, do they make anything to patch the hole that will actually hold up? Also, i did find a few shingles on the ridge that are stapled VERY close to the drip edge. Not leaking there but i dont like it, anything i can seal the staple there with to make sure it doesnt start to leak?
thanks!

 

[dbdartman]

Yes, you can buy roofing tar in caulking tubes at the big box stores. I've used it before & it works just fine for what you want to do (patch a few small holes).

BTW, saw this question on another board & though it looked familiar...

 

[MrJimi]

Well, i got up on the roof and THINK i may have found the problem, the shingle directly on top of the OSB that looks to have been wet has a hole through it, looks like someone started to nail through it, the hole doesn't go into the OSB, but i think the water goes through the hole in the shingle and went through the wood, Now, rather than tear up the shingle, do they make anything to patch the hole that will actually hold up? Also, i did find a few shingles on the ridge that are stapled VERY close to the drip edge. Not leaking there but i don't like it, anything i can seal the staple there with to make sure it doesn't start to leak?
thanks!

I would recommend a gallon of roofing tar for now and next time
Jim

 

[Soundguy]

I don't remember him saying he does have a ridge vent. Without a water stain on the rock it almost sounds like a moisture problem.

Does your dryer vent or kitchen vent go up into the roof attic?

if it is a DW.. it will have something.. either a seam or RV.. I don't see many DW's moved whole..

Soundguy

 

[Soundguy]

Well, i got up on the roof and THINK i may have found the problem, the shingle directly on top of the OSB that looks to have been wet has a hole through it, looks like someone started to nail through it, the hole doesnt go into the OSB, but i think the water goes through the hole in the shingle and went through the wood, Now, rather than tear up the shingle, do they make anything to patch the hole that will actually hold up? Also, i did find a few shingles on the ridge that are stapled VERY close to the drip edge. Not leaking there but i dont like it, anything i can seal the staple there with to make sure it doesnt start to leak?
thanks!

Ditto.. as I said.. get a tube of the black asphalt roof repair.. it's a couple bucts.. use a nail to lif the shingle.. put the nose of the tube in.. git it a hevfty blop. push the shingle down and let it spread the tar.. then put a tar blop on top of the hole.

Soundguy

 

[Tig]

The only caution when sealing shingles is to not trap water in. Seal on the top and the sides if you must plus any problem spots but try to not completely seal the bottom edge. You want any moisture that gets under there to be able to run out.
Any shingles that you pry up to peek under should get a small gob of tar under the tab, just to stick them down before the wind gets them. That may save to trouble later.
I've used tubes of tar and even silicone rubber for spot work.