ronjhall
Super Star Member
It has already be said. But here goes. Slow the drill down. After you have dulled a drill in a bed rail. Metal will become hard from the heat. Heat red hot with a torch. Then let cool slowly.
Help with metal drilling
- Thread starter TomSr
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ArkLaTexSam
Bronze Member
I wish I had thought about using a cooling oil when I drilled my bucket for a toothbar. I went super crawl speed slow until I got the holes started with a hand drill. I managed to not tear up my drill bit because going slow keeps the heat down. Sure did make some noise!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ArkLaTexSam
ArkLaTexSam
txslowpoke
Bronze Member
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They also have a cutting "crayon" or paste stick out. Basically it looks like a big crayon, you hit the bit with it as you are drilling, or cover bit prior to drilling. Its very clean, one person user friendly vs the cuttin oil.
Mcfly89
Member
we use a cutting fluid called mystic metal mover. it is the best product i have ever used and would highly recommend it for drilling anything (except aluminum of course, in which case we use alumicut). the crayon product sounds interesting too. another tip that noone has mentioned...the drill doctor ONLY works on non-split point bits...regardless of what the packaging says. it does a wonderful job of sharpening standard drill bits tho. split point bits are by far the easiest starting and best bits out there. personally i wouldnt own anything else...on purpose.
on a side note, if you have to get your metal red hot to anneal it and dont have a set of torches, you could keep using your dull drill bit on high speed, hehe
on a side note, if you have to get your metal red hot to anneal it and dont have a set of torches, you could keep using your dull drill bit on high speed, hehe
Deerlope
Veteran Member
Mcfly89 said:we use a cutting fluid called mystic metal mover. it is the best product i have ever used and would highly recommend it for drilling anything (except aluminum of course, in which case we use alumicut). the crayon product sounds interesting too. another tip that noone has mentioned...the drill doctor ONLY works on non-split point bits...regardless of what the packaging says. it does a wonderful job of sharpening standard drill bits tho. split point bits are by far the easiest starting and best bits out there. personally i wouldnt own anything else...on purpose.
on a side note, if you have to get your metal red hot to anneal it and dont have a set of torches, you could keep using your dull drill bit on high speed, hehe
I have a drill doc and have found a way to sharpen the split piont bits in it. I just need to get the corser stone for my bits over 1/2 dia.
patrick_g
Elite Member
Larry, OK, Most things are relative, shades of grey not black or white. Motor oil is better than ambient air for cooling a drill bit. Now if you blew enough compressed air on the tip of the bit, I'm not sure that motor oil would be superior to it. As I sad in a previous pose and as Eddie said... WATER is good way to cool the bit.
Notice how I keep saying COOLING and not lubrication? Heat is the enemy of the sharp parts of the bit. Overheating a bit dulls it way faster than just the metal you are removing. A drill bit is just a rotating chisel with a fixed angle of atack. Would you take a torch to a good sharp chisel? Of course not as the heat would be a BAD thing.
Of course cutting oil is THE Right Stuff as it is especially for the purpose and most other it-sorta-works-ok substitutes are not typically as good (no big surprise.) My nose would grow if I claimed to have never used motor oil in liew of cutting oil. It was handy and way better than the ever present air. I have also used ATF and find it way better than motor oil. Note the earlier post about an experienced machinist using ATF and cutting oil mix.
My MOTOR OIL is counter productive comment stands, in this context... it is counter productive to replace a better fluid for the purpose with motor oil. Of all the available typical fluids that people frequently use as a substitute for REAL CUTTING OIL (fluid) motor oil is probably the poorest, hence my comment that its use is counter productive as any other commonly used fluid, including water, would be better. If you took my comment to mean I claim motor oil to be worse than nothing but ambient air then, sorry, not the way I meant it.
I doubt that a black hummer filled with shock troops from SAE or any such organization will descend en masse on your loacation when someone tips them off about your using motor oil for cutting oil. Who knows... maybe used motor oil would be better, especially if the lubricity had been reduced and you decant it gently to avoid the sludge and wear particles that settle out.
Pat
Notice how I keep saying COOLING and not lubrication? Heat is the enemy of the sharp parts of the bit. Overheating a bit dulls it way faster than just the metal you are removing. A drill bit is just a rotating chisel with a fixed angle of atack. Would you take a torch to a good sharp chisel? Of course not as the heat would be a BAD thing.
Of course cutting oil is THE Right Stuff as it is especially for the purpose and most other it-sorta-works-ok substitutes are not typically as good (no big surprise.) My nose would grow if I claimed to have never used motor oil in liew of cutting oil. It was handy and way better than the ever present air. I have also used ATF and find it way better than motor oil. Note the earlier post about an experienced machinist using ATF and cutting oil mix.
My MOTOR OIL is counter productive comment stands, in this context... it is counter productive to replace a better fluid for the purpose with motor oil. Of all the available typical fluids that people frequently use as a substitute for REAL CUTTING OIL (fluid) motor oil is probably the poorest, hence my comment that its use is counter productive as any other commonly used fluid, including water, would be better. If you took my comment to mean I claim motor oil to be worse than nothing but ambient air then, sorry, not the way I meant it.
I doubt that a black hummer filled with shock troops from SAE or any such organization will descend en masse on your loacation when someone tips them off about your using motor oil for cutting oil. Who knows... maybe used motor oil would be better, especially if the lubricity had been reduced and you decant it gently to avoid the sludge and wear particles that settle out.
Pat
Egon
Epic Contributor
After the drill bit gets hot it may not be the same drill bit you stated out with. Even after it cools down and is resharpened.
BTDT
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We used to use this when I was an iron-worker by trade. We had a tube that was about the size of a tube of grease. It is more like a stick of wax. We would just shove the bit into it and drill. As bit got hot, wax/grease would melt and keep bit lubricated. It was also good because it cooled fairly quickly and trapped the metal shavings. Didn't have oil spots, puddles, all over the place, nice when your working above ground (sky scrapers).txslowpoke said:
Grainger sells several different types, (cutting oil, creams, stick, sprays, etc)
patrick_g
Elite Member
Do they come in designer colors and a choice of scents?
Pat
Pat
rutwad
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I can remember once trying to drill through a leaf spring. I was using my dad's drillpress and "tap magic" oil. It obviously still got hot due to the smoke and terrible fumes left from the steamed oil! Never did get that leaf spring hole drilled either.