Help with tig welding.

4570Man · Mar 25, 2016

I have a Miller Syncrowave 250 with a water cooled torch and foot pedal. I don't have any idea how to set the machine. What settings should I use for steel and aluminum? What shielding gas should I use for steel? What kind of gloves do you wear? I was unable to feed the filler wire with my regular welding gloves.

Shield Arc · Mar 25, 2016

Use 100% argon for Tig welding steel and aluminum. Later you can go with a helium mix for Tig welding really thick aluminum . Use AC with continuous high frequency for Tig welding Aluminum. For Tig welding steel and stainless steel use DC. I like the Ove Glove used for cooking to Tig weld with.

4570Man · Mar 25, 2016

I'm using 100% argon. I just wanted to make sure it was appropriate for steel and aluminum. This machine has about a dozen different knobs. How do I set those? Also my touch lets gas flow the entire time the gas cylinder is on. Is it supposed to do that?

sd455dan · Mar 26, 2016

4570Man said:
I'm using 100% argon. I just wanted to make sure it was appropriate for steel and aluminum. This machine has about a dozen different knobs. How do I set those? Also my touch lets gas flow the entire time the gas cylinder is on. Is it supposed to do that? View attachment 462392

I was kind of in the same boat when I picked up my Lincoln Tig 300 300

Thanks to help from TBners, and others -it was suggested to go to Lincolns site and down load the free operators manual, This proved to be a great resource.
Would think that Miller would be the same , and have great detailed info on how to set all the controls for the process being used.

The gas flow through torch on my chinese tig and the Lincoln both control the gas valve (on time by pedal and after flow by timer). So it sounds like you have an issue there.

Hope this helps.

Shield Arc · Mar 26, 2016

I'd have to be there to help set it up for you. It's been about a hundred years since I ran a Syncrowave. No! The gas is only to be on when you press the pedal. I'm sure that welder has pre, and post flow, which should have a dial to adjust the amount of time for pre, and post flow. The gas solenoid must be stuck, or broken.

MinnesotaDaveChalmers · Mar 26, 2016

Go to the miller website and download the free manual - it lists the proper settings for your dials.

After reading that, ask specific questions on the ones that still are confusing.

I agree with above, argon only flows during welding and pre/post flow periods.

4570Man · Mar 26, 2016

I played some more with it today. I can hear gas hissing all the time, but when I hit the foot pedal a different hissing sound happens. If I turn off the gas tank both hissing sounds stop. There is a gas control switch on the welder. If I flip it it stops both hissing sound, but it doesn't release gas when I press the foot pedal. Another problem. Today I was welding with it and it suddenly stopped. I haven't been able to produce an ark since then. The ground appears to be good. My Grandpa thinks the foot pedal might be messed up.

Jim Timber · Mar 27, 2016

My Sync 250dx is about 10 years old, and I've had some instances of the pedal not triggering lately. I'm guessing I should open it up and clean it, since I've never done that, but it's an intermittent problem right now which doesn't occur often enough to mess with it.

I'd suggest pulling the cover and blowing it out real good (this is a service procedure mentioned in the manual btw), and while you have it off check your points gaps, and the hoses inside the machine to the valve and the torch. I'm betting you have a crack given the age of the unit.

Miller has the full manuals online. You need your serial number to make sure you get the right one. Download it and save it on your computer somewhere. I have a file with all the PDF's for all my stuff so I don't have to go surfing for them when I need to look something up.

There's also pin-outs online for the 14 pin connectors so you can bench test the pedal without opening it up.

Jim Timber · Mar 27, 2016

Also - based on the angle of your power selector, I don't think you have it locked into a functional position and that's why it stopped.

I'm tired.

I meant to say the AC position bypasses the rectifier diodes on the output. That's what another 12 hour day does to my brain. I also have a pulser module. Not seeing all that stuff on your control panel, but we can go over that if you need more help.

4570Man · Mar 27, 2016

Jim Timber said:
Also - based on the angle of your power selector, I don't think you have it locked into a functional position and that's why it stopped. I'm tired. I meant to say the AC position bypasses the rectifier diodes on the output. That's what another 12 hour day does to my brain. I also have a pulser module. Not seeing all that stuff on your control panel, but we can go over that if you need more help. YouTube Link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2rd86w8jVyI

That isn't my machine. I just Googled that picture. I have moved my selector around. It doesn't make any difference set to electrode negative or positive.