Helping a Leaking PTO Seal (Leak Less)

[mmranch]

I have a leaking PTO shaft seal or o-ring. This PTO seal design is a cap which unbolts to reveal the seal pressed into the cap and the cap has an o-ring around the edge of the cap. I ordered the seal and o-ring from the manufacturer many months ago and went to change it while I was changing my hydraulic oil.

After removing the cap and comparing to the new seal, I see that it looks like the new seal is the wrong seal. The ID of the old seal is 1.5" (approx) and the new seal ID is 1.3" (approx). The design of the new seal ID area is also different from the old seal ID area. The new seal wont even fit over the PTO splines to get back to the area where it is supposed to live (which is an even larger OD than the splines themselves). So the new seal is wrong. The o-ring appears to be correct.

I am currently working with the dealer/manufacturer to try to get the correct seal. But it will be many days if not weeks before the new seal is here and I need to put the tractor back in service now. I am hoping to continue working with the tractor until the next hydraulic oil change when I will attempt to change the seal again.

On the old seal... I'm not totally sure whether the seal is leaking or if the outer cap o-ring is leaking or both. The PTO shaft was definitely dirty right up to the seal and I have cleaned it all off. I can put the new o-ring in place.

I'm wondering if I can do anything to help the seal seal better? The ID of the seal looks like a standard seal with a couple of rubber ribs. Should I put some grease in the gaps of the ribs to help it keep hydraulic oil from passing or is this a bad idea?

Thanks for any ideas!

 

[stuckmotor]

I think I'd call a local bearing supply house and see what specs they need to get you a seal or whatever they think you need.

 

[Rebeldad1]

2nd that

 

[5030]

I little brake fluid in the gearcase will swell the seal.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks for the ideas! I will be getting the right seal but need to use the machine today (on a mountaintop in the middle of nowhere so not near services). Right now the old seal has not been removed from the cap (so the seal is undamaged) and easy to re-install. The leak was not a major leak and drip pans handle the drips when parked.

Just wondered if filling those voids in the seal ID ribs was a no-no? Likewise, the o-ring on the edge of the bolt on seal cap... seems like a small amount of oil-resistant RTV would help that seal?

Thanks for the brake fluid tip! I'll have to look into that.

Thanks again.

 

[ericm979]

You don't need to wait until you change the fluid to change the seal. Park the tractor facing down hill and have a pan for whatever does leak out.

Grease will get washed out pretty quick. Brake fluid will swell all the rubber in the system. Not a good idea.

 

[CoyPatton]

You don't need to wait until you change the fluid to change the seal. Park the tractor facing down hill and have a pan for whatever does leak out.

Grease will get washed out pretty quick. Brake fluid will swell all the rubber in the system. Not a good idea.

Agree that grease will do little on the front end and in short order will no even less as any leak will wash it away.
I would not add brake fluid to the hydraulic fluid either as you will run a great risk of damage to any other rubber components (biggie would be rubber hydraulic hoses for FEL, if equipped, and rear remotes, if equipped, and any other rubber items.
However as you have indicated the seal is in the cap that has been removed, I might be tempted to apply some brake fluid to a towel and apply a thin coating on the rubber seal, allow it to set for a while, wipe it off with a clean towel, then re-install.

 

[MF243RedTop]

Or take the old seal and let it soak in some brake fluid and then reinstall. Don't pour any into the hydro fluid.
You probably be better off looking for a new seal through a bearing place.

 

[mmranch]

Thanks to all for the ideas!

As it turns out... I'm a moron.

The new seal is the correct seal. TYM packed the PTO seal with a machined stainless piece (with rubber interior) inserted into the seal to keep the seal ID correct. As I was trying one more time to see if the seal fit over the PTO shaft splines, it pushed out the packing piece. When I then compared the seals, the new seal was correct.

The new seal is now installed and tractor is back to work.

Thanks again.

 

[MF243RedTop]

First time ever RR a seal???
Well don't worry we've all been there,
Mine was about 15 yrs ago..

Fortunately I have an older brother within holler distance. Which is maintenance on a paper mill.
(Shh.. that's how I got the new seal)