HF Three Point Log Splitter

[dmccarty]

My tractor has rear remotes for the backhoe. I just connect the hoses from the splitter to the remote. Set the engine RPM to 1800ish and go to work.

I bought a 3PH splitter since it was cheaper, better, and one less engine to have to manage.

Mine works just fine.

Later,
Dan

 

[rjkobbeman]

Maybe so, but you'd have to step away from the splitter. The easier way is to bungee the tractor's remote lever to open and then use the splitter's valve to control the ram. I'd say that is the norm for operators of 3PH splitters using remotes.

Thanks. I was curious how this worked if someone was connecting in to their remotes.

So let me ask you this, what is the purpose of a self cancelling detent valve on the tractor. It seems to me a log splitter would be the obvious reason here... but if you are really using the valve on the log splitter, it sounds like the valve type on the tractor doesn't matter. I ask this as I am genuinly curious. On my tractor I have one self canceling detent valve and one float detent valve. I get the many uses for float... but I am having a hard time figuring out what use the self canceling valve can serve. Of course the self canceling detent can be used as a valve for anything... but it is the self canceling feature when in the detent position that I don't know what implement would use.

 

[txdon]

I got interested in this thread after a neighbor gave me his old 3 pt wood splitter. (see picture below)

As you can see it need cylinders, valves, hoses, paint and maybe something else.

Question one: Would it be more practical to get the harbor freight 3pt wood splitter?

I went to Harbor Freight today and saw their electric 7 ton splitter for about the same price. Since my WBS only holds wood 23" long by 8" wide. I burn about a cord a year, a cold year. it looked very interesting.
7 Ton Log Splitter

Question two: Would it be better for me to get the portable electric 7 ton splitter?

 

[dave1949]

I got interested in this thread after a neighbor gave me his old 3 pt wood splitter. (see picture below)

As you can see it need cylinders, valves, hoses, paint and maybe something else.

Question one: Would it be more practical to get the harbor freight 3pt wood splitter?

I went to Harbor Freight today and saw their electric 7 ton splitter for about the same price. Since my WBS only holds wood 23" long by 8" wide. I burn about a cord a year, a cold year. it looked very interesting.
7 Ton Log Splitter

Question two: Would it be better for me to get the portable electric 7 ton splitter?

It may depend on what wood species you are splitting. Easy or hard? For ~one cord, it might be cheaper to rent a splitter once a year for a day.
Dave.

 

[txdon]

I'm splitting post oak and blackjack oak wood. I am leaning toward the electric one because I usually just go out into the woods a few days before a cold front hits and cut down a dead tree (I have many). The trees are not more than 18" in diameter. I usually keep the BH on the tractor and I would not have to change out several times a winter. Is 7 tons enough power?

Renting one would make me work too hard in a short period of time and cramp my retirement lifestyle.

 

[dave1949]

I'm splitting post oak and blackjack oak wood. I am leaning toward the electric one because I usually just go out into the woods a few days before a cold front hits and cut down a dead tree (I have many). The trees are not more than 18" in diameter. I usually keep the BH on the tractor and I would not have to change out several times a winter. Is 7 tons enough power?

Renting one would make me work too hard in a short period of time and cramp my retirement lifestyle.

Lifestyle is important!

I've never split dead post or blackjack oaks, so I don't have the answer. Red oak is an easy splitter, especially when it is from a live tree and freshly cut.

A good way to judge is to split some by hand. If you can split them with an axe or 6lb splitting maul with one or two good hits, they are easy splitters and I would guess most of the straight rounds could be split with 7 tons.

I split about one cord by hand with an 8lb splitting maul. The crotchety pieces go to the firepit supply pile. It's good exercise on a 50* or less day. It's usually Fall and I spend a fair amount of time enjoying the leaves and generally standing around gawking between minor bouts of splitting.
Dave.

 

[jinman]

Thanks. I was curious how this worked if someone was connecting in to their remotes.

So let me ask you this, what is the purpose of a self cancelling detent valve on the tractor. It seems to me a log splitter would be the obvious reason here... but if you are really using the valve on the log splitter, it sounds like the valve type on the tractor doesn't matter. I ask this as I am genuinly curious. On my tractor I have one self canceling detent valve and one float detent valve. I get the many uses for float... but I am having a hard time figuring out what use the self canceling valve can serve. Of course the self canceling detent can be used as a valve for anything... but it is the self canceling feature when in the detent position that I don't know what implement would use.

Nothing is wrong with your questions. At some point, we all either asked the same questions or learned from experience.:thumbsup:

I have to admit that I'm not 100% positive what a "self-canceling" valve is. I suspect it may be like a log-splitter valve where you can set a back pressure where the valve will automatically go to center, thereby cancelling its operation. It would keep the hydraulics from going into relief if the maximum pressure is reached. That makes sense, but I'm not sure it is correct.

A log splitter valve has something similar to the "self-canceling" feature. When you move the valve's control lever to advance the ram, full pressure is applied for as long as you hold the valve in the advance position. After splitting the log, you can move the lever to the full retract detent position and remove your hand. You don't have to hold the valve open while the ram retracts. You can be repositioning your split round for the next cut. When the ram gets to the the full retract position, there is a pressure spike that pops the control handle back to neutral and removes pressure.

I would say that on your Kubota, you would probably want the aux valve set on the tractor to "self-cancel" unless it constantly pops back to neutral and becomes a pain to reset over and over. In that case, I'd bungee it to the full open position and be done with it. When operating your splitter, you have your hand on the control valve always while the ram advances, and you will move it to retract if the ram stalls. Splitter valves are quite simple and quite functional all at the same time. Good stuff!

 

[jinman]

I got interested in this thread after a neighbor gave me his old 3 pt wood splitter. (see picture below)

As you can see it need cylinders, valves, hoses, paint and maybe something else.

Question one: Would it be more practical to get the harbor freight 3pt wood splitter?

I went to Harbor Freight today and saw their electric 7 ton splitter for about the same price. Since my WBS only holds wood 23" long by 8" wide. I burn about a cord a year, a cold year. it looked very interesting.
7 Ton Log Splitter

Question two: Would it be better for me to get the portable electric 7 ton splitter?

Don, I'm going to come down firmly on the side of the HF 3PH splitter instead of the electric one. The reason is that my 3PH splitter is just about right for exactly the types of splitting jobs you're describing. My postoaks and blackjack oaks are knarly, twisted, and crochety. I've hit some spots that challenged the 14-ton 3PH model. It does a good all-around job. It will cost you less than refurbing the old splitter and be less likely to burn up a motor than the electric HF splitter. I just hear way too many horror stories about HF electrical powered handtools burning up. I admit that my paranoia would keep me away from that electrical unit.

Here's another thought about the splitter. There is no reason that the 3PH splitter cannot be mounted on a cart or wagon. Sure, it's made to go onto a 3PH, but you could put some hold-down clips on a trailer and just run longer hoses to your tractor's remotes without messing with the BH. You can tow it wherever you need to use it on the trailer and use the flat surface it is mounted on for workspace to roll big rounds onto the splitter and also catch split rounds to keep them from falling on your toes. I have the bruised big toe to testify that it can hurt. Ouch!

My point is that the 3PH model is more flexible than it first appears if you consider that all it needs is to be attached to your tractor's hydraulics. If you think I'm considering buying a small trailer to mount mine on and pull behind my tractor when I go splittin', well, that would be a very accurate guess. Being able to disconnect quickly from the splitter and go use my tractor and grapple bucket to bring wood to the splitter is something I've been considering. Right now, I cut rounds with my chainsaw while holding the wood with the grapple. Then, I back the tractor with the splitter up to the Kawasaki Mule and sit the splitter into its bed. I use the tailgate of the Mule to catch split rounds and then toss them into a big stack in the Mule. When the Mule gets full, I haul the split wood off to my woodpile. That way I don't have to try and haul a big tree out of the woods and across all my gullys. I can cut and split onsite while using the Mule to haul. Of course, Kathy helps with driving the Mule. If I had the splitter attached to a trailer, I could just pull the trailer behind the tractor and make it a 1-person job.

 

[dmccarty]

...
Here's another thought about the splitter. There is no reason that the 3PH splitter cannot be mounted on a cart or wagon.
....
My point is that the 3PH model is more flexible than it first appears if you consider that all it needs is to be attached to your tractor's hydraulics.
...

My 3PH splitter does not attach to my tractor anymore. I move it around with my pallet forks. :thumbsup: I built a bench that holds the splitter. The bench is about 5 feet long and 3 feet wide. It holds the splitter, wood to be split and wood that is being split. This minimizes me bendng over. :thumbsup: I also built a little table roughly 2x2 that helps hold wood that is being split.

I don't move the bench really. I just moved it into place and there it stays. I cut the trees into 6-8 foot long logs which I move to the splitter with the pallet forks. Much easier to move the logs than the wood rounds. The logs get cut up into rounds near the bench/splitter and then are split right there. I can just toss the split wood to where it needs to be stacked. The fewer touches on the wood the less work. :thumbsup:

I back the tractor up to the bench and connect the hydraulic hoses. Easy peasy. I think I will get some longer hoses one day so I can park the tractor parallel to the bench to connect the hoses. The current hoses need to be a couple feet longer to do this. That way I don't have to take off the MX 6 to split wood. So far this has not been an issue so I just use the "short" hoses.

Later,
Dan

 

[txdon]

Jim thanks for the info on our like wood, that helped a lot. Using a trailer or pallet forks made the decision easy to double the tons. When I saw the special price that Harbor freight now has, the refurbishing of the old one seemed pointless. I might just be enthused enough now to do more than one tree at a time. Thanks