Hi Everyone. New member looking for advice

[nrbocke]

One person above recomended the 1023E. It looks to be about the same price as a X748. So how would the 1023E with the same attatchments (60'' mid mount mower and 54'' snow blower) compare for my area and needs with the X748? My simple thinking is the X748 is going to be better at mowing and be able to do other tasks as needed. The 1023E is going to be better at the other tasks but could mow as needed. I would also assume if a guy went with the 1023E as his only machine he would need to get it with turf tires. I've read some post on the 2000/3000 series saying that as person would be best off if they owned the tractor plus a ZTR or whatever for mowing their yard area. Would the same be true with the 1023E?

Thanks!

 

[jenkinsph]

One of the things I like about the x748-9 is the single range of gears. I prefer this to the two range 1023e, at least for mowing being able to go slow or full speed with plenty of power is more desireable to me. This single speed gearing is between the low and high gearing on the two range models and is the sweet spot.

Last night I mower a customers back lawn that was alot steeper than anything I saw in your pictures, lots of pine trees to mow around. Just have to hold on to the side handles to keep from sliding out of the seat.

John Deere offers the 45 loader for the x748, I have only seen one and haven't used it. looked to be okay imo. Looking at your pics I can't see much need for a loader, looks like you can drive just about anywhere on your property in a pickup, Once you landscape the place why would you need it? You could always add it later if you find a purpose for it. Better to keep the mower optimized for mowng without alot of extra weight on the machine.

If you get the front hydraulic angle blade there is an attachment you can add to make it a bucket able to transport and move dirt and mulch but it doesn't lift very high. Since you would have the front quick hitch for either a snowblower or front blade this would be an inexpensive add on to that set up.

If I were considering a 1000 series it would only be the 1026R which has position control for the rear hitch. The center detent valves on the x748 are easier to use than the 2305 and 1023e rear hitch control. These machines have very similar capabilities as far as mowing is concerned but I prefer the hydraulic front wheel drive. The variable speed valve for the front end offers less tire scuffing on your lawn.

Now if what you want is a tractor then I would consider a 3320 and up with a cab and nice front blower for winter work. Seems like a stretch for a short driveway to me.

 

[TMR]

One of the things I like about the x748-9 is the single range of gears. I prefer this to the two range 1023e, at least for mowing being able to go slow or full speed with plenty of power is more desireable to me. This single speed gearing is between the low and high gearing on the two range models and is the sweet spot.

Last night I mower a customers back lawn that was alot steeper than anything I saw in your pictures, lots of pine trees to mow around. Just have to hold on to the side handles to keep from sliding out of the seat.

John Deere offers the 45 loader for the x748, I have only seen one and haven't used it. looked to be okay imo. Looking at your pics I can't see much need for a loader, looks like you can drive just about anywhere on your property in a pickup, Once you landscape the place why would you need it? You could always add it later if you find a purpose for it. Better to keep the mower optimized for mowng without alot of extra weight on the machine.

If you get the front hydraulic angle blade there is an attachment you can add to make it a bucket able to transport and move dirt and mulch but it doesn't lift very high. Since you would have the front quick hitch for either a snowblower or front blade this would be an inexpensive add on to that set up.

If I were considering a 1000 series it would only be the 1026R which has position control for the rear hitch. The center detent valves on the x748 are easier to use than the 2305 and 1023e rear hitch control. These machines have very similar capabilities as far as mowing is concerned but I prefer the hydraulic front wheel drive. The variable speed valve for the front end offers less tire scuffing on your lawn.

Now if what you want is a tractor then I would consider a 3320 and up with a cab and nice front blower for winter work. Seems like a stretch for a short driveway to me.

Question...are the decks for the 300/500/700 of the same basic construction? or does each series have different deck strength and spindle strength? The deck appear to be "stamped" versus "fabricated" (I think that is the terms used?). No mention of premium deck construction that you see on some lawn equipment...ie "when you move up to this model we go to a "fabricated" deck vs the weaker "stamped" deck. You notice this particularly on the zero turn mowers...just wonder about the JD 300/500/700 series?

Note from other of my posts I am kind of tough on spindles.

A bit off topic...TMR

 

[aebsmithcreek]

i'm in the same boat your in when it comes to tractor knowledge and simular size minus the hills. you mention the melon patch, any chance you'll take up gardening? if so you may consider that also. before i got a tractor i had a 1/8 acre or so planted and everything was done by hand, the tractor has enabled me to expand easily. gardening isn't for everyone i know but if your a home body like me it is a great pass time. if it was me and most or all of my five acres had to be mowed and still needed some grading and finish work i would be looking for a used tractor with fwd and a loader. once you have one you will wonder how you ever got along without it. for me my tractor is like another guys hot rod or airplane, when i need to get away and have some fun i just walk out back and climb aboard. i have two motorcycles that have been sittin goin to seed since i bought my tractor, the tractor is just more fun. i grew up with and owned horses until i was around 40 and always told my wife (and anybody else who would listen) theres nothin as good for the inside of a man as the outside of a horse, now i tell em theres nothin as good for the inside of a man as the outside of a tractor.
earl

 

[kozak]

nrbocke, welcome to TBN.

I initially was going to recommend the 3320 based on size alone which would make snow removal / clearing far easier. However, looking at the specs for the x748 caused me to slightly modify my response.

That's why there is not as much difference in price between the two (as per your post). The x748 can be considered a deluxe (hydrostat among other nice amenities) versus the gear driven 3320.

There is no doubt that the 3320 would make it FAR easier to clear snow....and a alot of snow to boot.

It's a tough call. Cannot go wrong with either.

I have 2.5 acres & LOVE the extra power & weight that my NH TC35D gives me. Makes blowing snow (or using FEL for same) like spreading butter on toast......let me tell ya somethin. There is something behind what the guys at work were saying. Cannot beat Power & Weight.

Now having said all that, if you have the right tires (R4's) & add at least 500 lbs (if not more) you should be ok with the x748.

Good Luck with whatever you decide & get back to the forum on your ultimate choice.

We will be expecting pictures naturally.

Vic

 

[dmay]

Correct. If your primary role is mowing then turf tires are recommended. Add chains and rear ballast box for winter traction.

As to 1023e or 1026r, check both out at your dealer, get some seat time, and decide for yourself. Both meet your needs. Note I have no personal experience with the 1 series as it was not available when I shopped. Of the two Just from reading specs I would go 1026r.

I can tell you that on my 2320 I run in low gear when mowing and snow blowing. Really only use high gear for traveling to wherever I need to start working.

 

[nrbocke]

I did feel bad asking such an open question without even having tried any of these models. I just hate showing up at a dealership not knowing what I want. I haven't even really looked at other brands because when I look at their web pages they are not nearly as easy to get info off of as JD and 2 I don't personally know anyone to talk to that owns anything larger than a riding mower that isn't a John Deere.

As far as the gardening goes...the corner we bought came with the family water mellon patch. My Great Uncle says they have been growing on it for 90 years. So I just attatched a picture of it for fun. The first picture is just of some of the patch I took last year before construction started. The second picture I was messing with a lense I found. The upside down "T" shape is the area that was planted. We planted 42 watermellon plants this spring. Half of them got washed out from the run off of my backyard (which you can see the rutts in this same picture) but that is a topic for another site...My wife and I planted a pumkin just for fun also. I know we got 1 that already is too heavy to pick up. My Great Uncle (who is 87) handles the disking work now with an old Internation H.

So I didn't get into that too much in my first post. I would love to keep the garden going and even grow more of our food. But it doesn't come natural to me and after working 12 hour rotating shift with 300+ hours of OT a year it is easy to blow off. Mowing and snow removal are still going to be the primary useses. But since somebody asked, as a whole other deal...If I do take on this garden as it should be done, like I would like to, is the X748 enough machine in the long run?

 

[jenkinsph]

The Deere 647 tiller would work nicely behind the x748, it is considered a garden tractor.

 

[jenkinsph]

Question...are the decks for the 300/500/700 of the same basic construction? or does each series have different deck strength and spindle strength? The deck appear to be "stamped" versus "fabricated" (I think that is the terms used?). No mention of premium deck construction that you see on some lawn equipment...ie "when you move up to this model we go to a "fabricated" deck vs the weaker "stamped" deck. You notice this particularly on the zero turn mowers...just wonder about the JD 300/500/700 series?

Note from other of my posts I am kind of tough on spindles.

A bit off topic...TMR

Sorry to take so long to respond, haven't had internet service today. The x decks used on the 700 series are C deck stampings fitted with the gearbox for shaft drive and heavy duty spindles, idlers and belt. All the spindles have zerks to grease them. The 7 iron is made with 7 guage steel and it thicker and higher dome than the X decks. The 7 iron deck will do a better job in tall grass.

 

[TMR]

Sorry to take so long to respond, haven't had internet service today. The x decks used on the 700 series are C deck stampings fitted with the gearbox for shaft drive and heavy duty spindles, idlers and belt. All the spindles have zerks to grease them. The 7 iron is made with 7 guage steel and it thicker and higher dome than the X decks. The 7 iron deck will do a better job in tall grass.

Thanks Steve...I enjoy your posts...very informative...AND you seem to have most of the "size" bases covered

You may have read my story of how I have used/abused my Sears 42" 25 HP w/ weights and chains. Leads me to place brush hogging at the top of my tractor needs. Truth be told...the fact that I have now "mowed" my one mile of trails for a number of years and my 3+ acres of field (once a year) for more than 5 years...AND that I want a "mowed" look when done...I am beginning to wonder if a MMM with a sturdier deck and sturdier spindles might be part of my tractor "solution".

Also, if forced to take a lie detector test, I would admit that much of the spindle and front end linkage damage has happened not from the initial mowing pass...but as a secondary result of NOT knowing when to back off on an impediment and taking a second run at it. In other words...operator error.

What I think I should be looking for is the strongest deck (MMM) and spindles (for the "normal" roughness of the land I mow)...and use that choice in selecting a CUT that will also do the other tasks I hope to do more of as I transition to "more" retired in the next year or two. A plus to that is that while I do not want the land to look "rough" mowed...perfection is not critical since it is field and trails. But I do want it to be mowed vs cut...

From your comments, it appears that a 7 Iron deck would be on my list with John Deere product? BTW...I think I would prefer smaller deck...what is the minimum 7 Iron width?

My other needs (other than mowing 3+ acres and over one miles of trails) are a bit undefined as I have never owned a tractor. But I would imaging the FEL might get some pretty heavy use assisting in tree removal and cleanup...perhaps some pretty heavy stumps/logs to move and skid out of the woods. Also, want to do some trail and field "smoothing"...probably box blade...again I anticipate some challenging work to change the profile of dirt that has not been disturbed. Night actually be easier to find a "hill" to pull some dirt from to take to the rough spots with the FEL?

In any case...I might find the brush hog NOT to be a primary tool...in fact may be better off with a DR brush mower to go into the woods between trees on the edges of the trails and field as I look to expand the open areas just a bit.

BTW...how much additional ground contact will I find by moving to a mower larger than the 42" I am using. The number of scalping wheels may also be important?

Thanks again...I now find myself wishing I could have a JD 700 series along with maybe a 3x20 CUT The CUT w/MMM probably should come first...I can just see myself trying to pick up the root ball from a large pine with a 700...would probably then be guilty of JD "abuse".

TMR