Hi low hi low. No medium to go. 1811 Hydro

[Nicadeamas]

.
Greetings.

I looked through the forums up to page 14 but haven't found the right answer's, so here we go.

In short:
I have a cub cadet 1811 hydro, the carburetor was gummed up and I wasn't getting fuel through the jets. I believe it is a fixed jet carburetor. So I cleaned it out, and have restored the fuel flow. However though I can now run it, it will only run at full throttle with the mower deck on. Anything less and it will fall into an unstable pattern of run high and low rpms and eventually die out. As if the airflow or gas flow is taking trips over hills.


In Long:
Last fall the steering column broke in half, so it sat around all winter until I fixed the steering column last month. But behold as I placed the key in the ignition, the little plastic piece in there broke makeing the ignition switch useless. So, fixing that, the tractor was supposed to start but instead it decided that it was time for the carburetor to be clogged.
I cleaned the carburetor out twice, learned a bit about how it works, and successfully got it to run, even though the belt for the lawn mower broke and the only replacement at the store was just a little to small, but still works thanks to the adjustable wheels in the front.

However the powers of evil are still waging war against me, and have caused something somewhere to toggle between working and not working. So that the engine will run really fast, and then slow down, and speed up again, etc etc. Like the rolling of hills. It will take about 40 seconds before it will eventually die out.


So, what should I look for?


Interesting extra's
- If I put the choke on while running it will kill the engine.
- If I leave the choke on while starting it will not start.
- I think the choke is working twice as good as it is supposed to and is flooding the engine.

-The fuel line goes from the tank to the filter, then to a one way valve mounted on the engine, and then to the carburetor... I took the one way valve apart, and put it back together, but I dont 'think' I broke it.
- If I mow for 20 min (assuming I can) then the engine will be hot enough to burn yourself on. Though I have cleaned all the airways out as best I can.
- I can mow in reverse.

Bonus questions.
(Because this is like a game.)
1. What kind of transmission fluid should I use for the rear axle?
2. Is it hard to replace the breaks?

 

[ss76]

Holy Crap! You need help. Did you drain the fuel system and refill with new fuel? Also, did you check the spark plug for fouling and the gap? If it was stored outside I would check the flywheel and coil to make sure the gap is correct and there is not any rust. I am assuming this is a gas engine. Good luck.

 

[westcliffe01]

Float needle and seat leaking and thereby flooding the engine when it runs ? It can also cause the sump to become filled with fuel, which once you start the engine then starts evaporating and making the engine run rich. Pull the dipstick and smell the oil, if it reeks of gas drain it and put new in. Make sure that the float shuts off right.

 

[rcbe]

And if there is gas in the crankcase oil, DON'T run that engine until it's been changed out, including filter. Crankcase oil diluted with raw gas can blow up engines...

 

[Nicadeamas]

.
Thanks for the reply so far, it has defiantly given me things to look into once it stops raining.

I do smell traces of gas on the oil dipstick. Later today I will grab some fresh oil and smell that to see if I can smell a big difference.

Do you think I need to poor some fresh oil in there and drain that out as well to clean the engine out?

Float needle and seat leaking and thereby flooding the engine when it runs ? It can also cause the sump to become filled with fuel, which once you start the engine then starts evaporating and making the engine run rich.

Would that cause the engine to speed up and slow down rapidly?
It takes between 2 and 5 seconds for the engine to go from slow, to fast, and back to slow while not moveing.
If I start it moveing then it acts like the extra strain on the engine evens it out so that it runs better.

Holy Crap! You need help. Did you drain the fuel system and refill with new fuel? Also, did you check the spark plug for fouling and the gap? If it was stored outside I would check the flywheel and coil to make sure the gap is correct and there is not any rust. I am assuming this is a gas engine. Good luck.

Nope, didn't drain the gas. Haven't checked the gap on the spark plugs but it runs so I would assume those are working. Yes it is stored outside, but I dont think there is anything wrong with the flywheel and coil.

 

[rcbe]

if you smell gas in that crankcase oil, DON'T run that engine till fresh crankcase oil and filter are installed. Diluted oil with raw gas can blow up engines - no/poor lubing properties.
suggest removing carb (again?) - take apart (take pix) - soak overnite at least in carb cleaner - run small dia copper wire thru all orifices/jets (use magnifying glass to see small holes) - put back together using a carb rebuild kit with new gaskets, etc. . While carb is off, replace all fuel lines, fuel filter with OEM replacement, drain/flush fuel tank. Replace plugs.
Engine should run OK. If not, post back with details of what was done and current engine misbehavior.

 

[OldMachinist]

Also check that the governor linkage moves freely. If it gummed up it can cause the engine to cycle high low as it can't respond fast enough. A little trick to check if there's a lot of fuel in the crankcase is to pull the dipstick and move away from the engine and gas tank, try to light the oil on the dipstick with a match or lighter. Engine oil won't burn but if there gas in the oil it will light right up.

 

[ss76]

Since it is stored outside, I would check for water in the fuel. Not because of water leaking into the tank but because of the temperature changes. When gas goes through alot of temp. changes it condensates and dilutes your fuel. Which is prob. why your carb gelled. I would drain the tank and float bowl and flush a little gas through the system and change the spark plug. Good luck

 

[Nicadeamas]

.
Oil doesn't light at all, but I will replace it anyway because it is very black and aged.
Plus I have already been running it in this condition and nothing has exploded.


Next on the list to do is fiddle with the adjustment screws on the carburetor. (Taking note and pics as to be able to return it to where it is currently set.)
Then toss some really really new fuel in there and see where we are at. Currently the only way the fuel could be diluted is if it got that way while still in the gas can, which is also stored outside over the winter.
Then if that doesn't work, I will probably rebuild the carburetor as suggested and get back to you weather it worked or not.

Thank you very much all the help thus far. :thumbsup:

 

[rcbe]

to "replace" tractor fuel, first discard old gas in can left over the winter, get fresh gas in can. Using an appropriate container and taking safety precautions, drain old fuel from tactor fuel tank - rinse with a bit of fresh fuel - hook fuel lines back up and fuel tractor as normal. Don't mix old/new fuel.