Hi my name is Hammick and I'm an over-greaser

[dragoneggs]

I just use good old Borax hand powder........scrub..scrub.. all gone.

Yep Borax or Goop. The combo works great... you get the grit and the goop! :laughing:

 

[k0ua]

Yep Borax or Goop. The combo works great... you get the grit and the goop! :laughing:

I use the waterless hand cleaner left over from the phone company. Yep still have a bottle. It seems just like Goop to me maybe a bit thinner. I then use the citrus orange towels that have some grit in them. Again a waterless product. You don't even have to wash you hands unless you want to get rid of the citrus smell. These products work extremely well and it only takes a small amount from the squirt bottle. Of course I used these products for years and I am very familiar with their application.

 

[Cat_Driver]

I can't help it. Two pumps ain't enough. I don't feel comfortable that I have properly greased a zerk until I see lots of red grease on both sides of the pin. My 18v Dewalt grease gun make this easy.

What do you over-greasers do with all that grease? Leave it to collect dirt? Spend an hour cleaning it all up with a roll of paper towels? Or power-wash the excess grease off? My concern with power-washing is that it will force the grease out of the pin and allow water into the pin.

I'm a never greaser, never oil change, never hydraulic fluid changer, never filter changer - now let me explain.

There is zero excuses for me never greasing my 80's Kubota MT4500, but I did it anyway. After more than 15 years with one oil change, and never greasing it, it was time to sell it. I thought I'd be a nice guy and at least change the fluids etc for the new owner. It sat so long that weeds grew up through the floorboards. I yanked it out of the brush, filled the tires, changed the battery and she fired right up. Mind you that was 15-year-old diesel fuel in her.

The hydraulic pump seemed like it needed replacing so I put one of my guys on it. He came back and showed me the gear that was driving the chain that was turning the pump. The gear no longer had any teeth on it. They wore completely off.

I pulled the frontend leader off to make service a little easier and the main pins were worn flat on one side down to 50% of the pin was missing. Picture a round cylinder cut in half lengthwise that's what the looked like.

After I changed all the fluids I almost didn't want to seel the old girl as she never let me down no matter how poorly I treated her. Never ever failed to start and being now nearly 30 years old.

I gave $4,500 for her in the 80's and drove that beauty hard and the guy offered me three times what I paid for her so I couldn't resist.

The moral of the story is there is no need to be grease crazy, you can forget a grease job every now and again and it won't hurt the tractor.

BTW I'm no longer like that. I have a newer Kubota and Excavator and they do get greased every so often, but I still ain't grease crazy and do it ever so many hours.

 

[grsthegreat]

I know people that grease every use...yeiks. Not me. Im too lazy

 

[rew1953]

I found another hand cleaner that works extremely well, wet or dry. It is called "Cherry Bomb" and is available at Home Depot and Lowes. It has lots of grit for the tough jobs and a really pleasant smell.

 

[dragoneggs]

I use the waterless hand cleaner left over from the phone company. Yep still have a bottle. It seems just like Goop to me maybe a bit thinner. I then use the citrus orange towels that have some grit in them. Again a waterless product. You don't even have to wash you hands unless you want to get rid of the citrus smell. These products work extremely well and it only takes a small amount from the squirt bottle. Of course I used these products for years and I am very familiar with their application.

And that uncontrollable twitch is nothing. :laughing: Just kidding... right with you.

 

[DieselBound]

My equipment rental guy says to NOT pressure wash his equipment. You can force water into places it ought not go. I will use a garden hose, low pressure. I've found, however, that I tend to use my air compressor to do most cleaning on my tractors and it works pretty well.

If you don't have grease slinging on your cab windows you ain't greasing enough! :laughing:

I've tried every kind of greasing implement, I swear. LnL works OK, but doesn't fit in many areas. I'd gotten another kind of attachment that was manufactured up in Canada that I kind of liked better, but it too could become difficult. Biggest improvement to reduce greasing-induced-cussing was a cordless DeWalt grease gun. Biggest issue then was getting the hose off the zerks! Use of pliers helps get me out of sticky jams: sometimes the hose will be in a cavity and you cannot twist and angle it to pop it off.

Careful about over-greasing some things that have seals. You don't want to over-grease and blow out the seals lest that then opens up bearings and such to the elements. Pins are pretty much grease till you make a mess!

And... never start a big greasing project with a full cartridge. Oh, no, to do a "proper" job you need to be right in the middle of the job, with your hands covered in grease, and THEN change out the cartridge! (assuming you're using cartridges) :thumbsup: Best is to be in the middle and NOT have a new cartridge!

A tip for anyone struggling to prime a grease gun... Insert new cartridge. Back off the cartridge holder a few turns and then run the handle in, twisting it a 1/4 turn as you go, and THEN screw down the holder. That's a sure-fire way to avoid air locks: the various bleeder mechanisms just don't work very well.

 

[arizona98tj]

I bought a Woodmax snow blower last winter and they have an entire page in the owner's manual just for you over-greasers. It says:

There are many questions when it comes to greasing bearings. All WoodMaxx implements are now equipped with bearings that are factory greased so that 33% of the race is full of grease, this allows for operation at all speed ranges. In a clean, dry environment adding more grease to the bearing is not required for at least 500 hours of use. This is counter intuitive to many people that have older equipment and are used to pumping grease into the bearings daily. Modern high quality bearings are made from better steel alloys, provide higher tolerances, increased rubber seal compounds, and better quality lubricants. These recommendations are based on load, spindle speed, operating temperature, and environmental conditions. More grease is not better, rather is counterproductive and can cause the bearing to generate heat and lead to premature failure. You should never pump grease into a bearing until the seals push outward, this is a sign that too much grease is applied, and can deform the seal causing an entryway for contaminants.

The manual goes on to indicate how much grease to add after the 500 hours.....and the amount is either 1 or 2 pumps depending on which fitting you are servicing. This lube warning does not apply to the PTO shaft joints....those are serviced every 20 hours.

 

[Smokeydog]

I bought a Woodmax snow blower last winter and they have an entire page in the owner's manual just for you over-greasers. It says:

There are many questions when it comes to greasing bearings. All WoodMaxx implements are now equipped with bearings that are factory greased so that 33% of the race is full of grease, this allows for operation at all speed ranges. In a clean, dry environment adding more grease to the bearing is not required for at least 500 hours of use. This is counter intuitive to many people that have older equipment and are used to pumping grease into the bearings daily. Modern high quality bearings are made from better steel alloys, provide higher tolerances, increased rubber seal compounds, and better quality lubricants. These recommendations are based on load, spindle speed, operating temperature, and environmental conditions. More grease is not better, rather is counterproductive and can cause the bearing to generate heat and lead to premature failure. You should never pump grease into a bearing until the seals push outward, this is a sign that too much grease is applied, and can deform the seal causing an entryway for contaminants.

The manual goes on to indicate how much grease to add after the 500 hours.....and the amount is either 1 or 2 pumps depending on which fitting you are servicing. This lube warning does not apply to the PTO shaft joints....those are serviced every 20 hours.

Good information. Always good to follow manufacturer recommendations.
At work PM maintenance was rigorous particularly bearings. Many pieces of equipment or their backup have run continuously for over sixty years.

 

[RSR]

So, I've learned that apparently I am an overgreaser, and need to join a support group. I pump until large quantities are oozing out. It's an unsightly mess. I have ruined many a shirt by bumping up against my loader ... I promise to change my ways.

However, here is another question. How often should you be greasing? My approach is every time I fill the tank with gas (a good reminder for me), which is about every 10 hours. If I'm doing heavy loader work, I'll maybe hit it halfway between an empty tank too.

Being a first time tractor owner, I have no idea if this is too much, too little, or just right.