High pressure hydraulic line

[Bird]

So we were talking about hydraulic "hoses" and you were talking about a steel line. /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif In that case, I think you'd have to go through a dealer to get that one all right.

 

[chrisjbell]

Wow! That doesn't look like it will be any fun at all to replace /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif. Hopefully the dealer was able to order the correct part. Good luck with it!

 

[macp]

That's a nasty part to change, all right. I do have the shop manual for the B2400 and can look at it this weekend if you have any questions. Was the three point hitch topped out by any chance? That's the only thing I can see that would cause extreme pressure in that line (it feeds high pressure fluid to the three point hydraulics). Good luck with the fix.
-Mac

 

[Pks]

I have some good news /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif for you... along with a little news that might be viewed as unpleasant /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif .

I've replaced this steel hydraulic line before (on my 1998 B2400). And I might be able to guide you a litteel bit. /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

First, unless the dealer has already mentioned it, order a new (maybe two is best) banjo fitting and several of those copper seals that seal the banjo fitting to the upper transmission case. Two seals are used, one on each side of the "hydraulic block".

Second, keep the old line and have it welded so the next time you'll have a spare. There may be a next time. /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Third, just for information's sake, compare the new pipe with the pipe presently installed on the tractor. I think you will find they are different in how they bend near the bajo fitting. No big deal. After the original banjo fitting was loose, the original pipe didn't fit too well any way. The new one, with the new profile fit better (but not perfect).

OK, here's why I mentioned ordering a new bajo fitting and seals... THEY BREAK EASILY. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif Maybe it's just me, /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif but I got more than a little peaved /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif when the original fitting broke. It took no real effort to break it! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif Follow the torque specs! If you need them, call your dealer and have them READ IT FROM THE BOOK. Don't accept the values if they pull them out of their memort! I'll try to find my book (we moved recently) and post them here when I get home tonight (it'll be about 10 PM EDT). The torque specs are in INCH POUNDS, which means this thing will break, strip or wreck your plans if you over tighten it.

Two new copper seals are required because the old ones leak if re-used...Mine did. Since I broke two banjo fittings, I needed six copper washers. I keep one banjo fitting and 4 or so seals in my new parts bin...just in case.

According to my dealer, this supply pipe is prone to breaking when it gets smacked by small branches. That seems pretty lame to me. Personally, I think the weld is lousey and the sticks just hasten the inevitable.

When you remove the linkages for the pedals and parking break, draw a picture (or photograph it) of all that stuff. By mistake, some parts can go together backwards until the last assembly steps. Then you'll see that the pieces don't line up right so a disassembly will be required...again. /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif I had some drawings but still managed to get the cruise control messed up a little bit. /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

One other thing comes to mind... while your under there, consider re-routing all your rubber hydraulic lines. Raise them out of harm's way. Also, consider polishing the pivot journals for the pedals. After they are greased, they will move more smoothly (at least mine did). /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

I think my total repair time was three hours. About 1 hour was probably used for studying how things worked, looked etc. I think it took about a solid hour to put everything back together...once I quite fiddling with polishing journals and looking around.

 

[apate]

Thanks PKS, your reply and everyone else helped me get through this thing. It turned out really well, my father in law works in a shipyard and he took the line with him to work and re-brazed the banjo fitting for me and pressure tested it. Bonus: when I dropped the fitting off at his house, he fed me a prime rib dinner. Got the line back the next day, used new washers, put it back together and happy ending /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif. PKS, it was a great idea, I used my digital camera to take photos of the parts I disassembled before diving in.

For future info, I believe my problems arose from getting off the tractor. I kept bumping the 3ph lift lever and it lifted the BH up. Then when using the BH, I think this exerted a lot of pressure on that hydraulic line and caused the failure. I think the lesson learned is always make sure your 3ph lever is in the "down" position especially when using the BH. Thanks again for the help.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

This forum never ceases to amaze me, alot of useful info here. I am glad to see you got it repaired and a bonus to boot. BTW, what is that green thingy on your key ring, just doesn't go with Kubota <font color="orange"> orange. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif