Hinomoto N209 refuses to start. H E L P

[wushaw]

Just a question, you don't have a "stop knob" do you? It would be silly if it was somehow knocked to the stop position....

Or it could be labeled "Emergency shut off"
This is a for sure way to keep it from running.

 

[Farmerford]

I have a Cat diesel that is very hard to prime. I cut the valve stem from an old inner tube and leave a 6" circle of rubber around the stem. Then I use a hose clamp to clamp the rubber around the fuel tank filler pipe. Then use an air compressor or hand pump to put pressure into the fuel tank through the valve stem. The rubber keeps you from overpressuring the tank and it helps keep pressure on the fuel so that it doesn't have to be pumped so much. Depending on the pump design, you may find that air pressure forces fuel all the way to one or more of the injectors. Then go through the usual bleeding step by step.

As John Bud said, don't take the line completely off the injector. Just loosen it a little....perhaps 1/2 turn or so.

 

[EFC]

We have sold many of the N189 through 279 Hinomoto. Yours is absolutely a bleeding problem and can be a real pain but bleeding from the tank to the injectors and paying real attention to your bleed screws on the non pressure side and just cracking (only at the injector not on the pump) the lines on the pressure side of the pump will eventually pay off.

Manuals are available but will be useless to solve this problem. The manuals say to bleed the system and so is everybody posting here. So you basically have the manual already.

The toughest part is that your tractor didn’t come from Japan but is a salvaged N209 from Vietnam (you said it had 24 hours on the meter in another forum, indicative of a salvaged unit). Since Vietnam is notorious for using hand made parts and piecing junk motors together it is hard for us that sell the non salvaged version to give you support because it may or may not be like it was when it came out of the factory. I can say it is a bleeding problem and it is a bear to get started. Don’t call that mechanic back if he was a real diesel mechanic your tractor would be running manual or not.

Buck

 

[zzvyb6]

My experience suggests pull starting it with a chain on a truck. Only way to get enough heat into it to light it up. Diesels need heat and compression to run. The compression rate from an unfiring cylinder is very much higher than you could ever get from a starting crank rpm. It might take 10 - 20 minutes of this to get the job done until you heat up the block.

You didn't mention ether. Not a good idea.

Have you given it a compression test? Below 350 psi it just ain't gonna start. Putting some 40 wt oil in it may help seal the rings...

 

[Hans Clahsen]

Just want to say a quick THANKS to everybody that posted a reply to my plea. Have not done anything since my first post since, as a few of you said, "it's a two men job" and I'm here by my self. I am printing out all the help files to show the mechanic whenever I can get him to come here again. Then we will try all the procedures advised. All that is moving right now is the fuel squirting out of the top of the tank due to heat expantion. As I said I keep the tank plumb full. Due to the location of the tractor it will be very hard to pull it. To many obstacles in the way and heavy traffic on the paved section of highway. For some of you who do not know the N209, it has the fuel tank behind the seat and therefore the fuel lines are very long compared to my neighbor's Yanmar for instance.
But keep the posts coming and I will definitely let everyone know when and if I ever get the thing fired up. Keep ihn mind, diesel mechanics (esp. tractor variety) are extremely rare in these parts and mine is VERY busy at all times working on trucks only. He maintains a fleet of Coca Cola trucks.
Thanks again Guys.

 

[EFC]

Sorry I cant be there to help, I know we could get it going. Email me if you need any specifics. buck@efcconstruction.com

Buck

 

[Soundguy]

I say get rid of the mechanic who hasn't helped you yet.. print out the verious ways to bleed that we are all telling you.. and I'll bet if you persever.. you will get it yourself in short order.

By the way.. a diesel that is in the process of being bled.. like yours is.. usually 'pull starts' in as few as 10 feet.. at least on half the cyls anyway.. which is usually enough to rev it up to finish off the process. Unless you really have -0- lot and no driveway.. I'd try thre 10' pull.. it deffinately can't hurt.. will save the starter.. and does get the engine turning over good..

Soundguy

Just want to say a quick THANKS to everybody that posted a reply to my plea. Have not done anything since my first post since, as a few of you said, "it's a two men job" and I'm here by my self. I am printing out all the help files to show the mechanic whenever I can get him to come here again. Then we will try all the procedures advised. All that is moving right now is the fuel squirting out of the top of the tank due to heat expantion. As I said I keep the tank plumb full. Due to the location of the tractor it will be very hard to pull it. To many obstacles in the way and heavy traffic on the paved section of highway. For some of you who do not know the N209, it has the fuel tank behind the seat and therefore the fuel lines are very long compared to my neighbor's Yanmar for instance.
But keep the posts coming and I will definitely let everyone know when and if I ever get the thing fired up. Keep ihn mind, diesel mechanics (esp. tractor variety) are extremely rare in these parts and mine is VERY busy at all times working on trucks only. He maintains a fleet of Coca Cola trucks.
Thanks again Guys.

 

[dougyarbenet]

I have a MF 205 - 1981 ( which is made by Hinomoto) and I ran out of fuel about 10 years ago and will never do that again. I could not get it started either. I also have had great difficulty in starting it after changing the fuel filter. I have found that filling the fuel filter (if new) full with diesel fuel then screwing it on carefully trying to keep the fuel from spilling out of ther filter was the best solution. On my tractor the fuel filter is a screw on type that is mounted upside down which allows me to fill up the filter with diesel fuel and thus eliminates most of the air that gets into the fuel system and causes a non-start condition. Also having a full fuel tank is important. (which you have). There is a bleed screw on the injection pump which I open and let the fuel run out for a minute or so. I also will loosen the injector nozzles where they go into the cylinders ( I have a 2 cylinder) -- and then start cranking the engine to bleed the air out of the system. Then tighten nozzles and try starting again. If no start, I loosen injector nozzles again and retighten. You may have to do this repeatedled until it starts. A fully charged battery is also very important. It greatly facilitates starting a diesel in general. I found the most important thing was to make sure your fuel filter is not full of air as this will really make starting hard. So if you have a screw on upside down filter that you can pour diesel fuel into and then remount on tractor this would greatly facilitate reducing the air in the system. Air in a fuel injection system is bad. Hope this helps!
doug

 

[john_bud]

I hate to tell you that you didn't get a diesel mechanic. You got a diesel hack. I could be wrong, but you were charged a lot of $$$, he put on an electrical pump that you don't need and all it needs is a simple bleed.

Ditch the idjit. ( I really wanted to use a rhyming word...)

You say you neighbor has a Yanmar. Why not ask the neighbor over to help you bleed the tractor. You can turn a wrench, now that you know what to turn and about how far --> right? Just have the neighbor turn the key to crank the engine - throttle at about 1/2. Although, I usually think of bleeding injectors as a 1 man job and do it alone - maybe your's is harder? It ain't rocket science...

Ask what flavor of beer he likes and have a case cold in the fridge and a case to set on his porch when the job's done.

 

[dougyarbenet]

Another suggestion--- If you are sure all the air is bled out of the system and the tractor still won't start you might want to check your valve clearances. If your valves (cylinder) are too tight that would cause hard starting and even no start and also cause alot of black smoke when cranking. Although you stated that the engine only has 24 hours on it and usually the valves don't need adjusting until there are many more hours on it.
doug