Hit rock and bent mower deck

[Sedge1]

While mowing with my BX 2200 today I nailed a rock. Not the first time, but the first time the engine stalled when I did. So I disengaged the PTO and the engine fired up. But as soon as I engaged the deck it stalled again. When I removed the deck and tipped it on its side, I discovered that one of the side blades was embedded into the lip of the deck. Apparently, the blade hit the rock hard enough, and just right, to force it into that part of the deck housing, causing it to deform and prevent the blade from spinning. And that is why the engine stalled when the PTO was engaged.
As the pictures show, there is a deformation of the lip of the mower deck that prevents the blade from rotating. I was able to dislodge the blade, but was unable to bang out the bend with a hammer. That is not going to happen due to the location.
I guess what I need to do it cut away the metal that has protruded into the path of the blade, but do not have a grinder or dremel tool to do so. Aggravating, but a TBO (tool buying opportunity). I would appreciate any thoughts on the best way to approach this project - specific tool recommendation, cutting process, etc. I confess to being very good a certain things - this kind of thing not being among them.
Finally, is there any other issue, not apparent, that I should be looking for? I rather thought that the deck would have a sacrificial pin (as in a snow blower) that would have given way before the blade got so imbedded. Maybe there is and I just don't know it. If so, how do I check for that, or any other potential damage? I can report that the belts appear fine, and they all still turn in unison, subject to the obstruction.
Appreciate any help you folks can impart.
David

 

[Diggin It]

Not embedded that I can see, just the lip of the deck bent into the blade path. Maybe something like a large pipe wrench would provide enough leverage to pull the deck edge down a half inch.

I did something similar some time back where the blade DID cut through the side of the deck. Needed a come-along and chain tied to a tree to be able to pull it back into shape.

 

[Sedge1]

Diggin, you are correct. The blade is no longer embedded - or never really was. A poor choice of words on my part. It was actually lodged in the deformed housing lip, and I was able to hammer it free.
Pipe wrench is a possible option.
Thanks.
David

 

[bigtiller]

I have a 24" and 36" pipe wrench for just such fixins.

 

[kenmbz]

That's what I used, too 24" Pipe wrench. Many times as I am not a good driver
Been removing rocks as I find them...

 

[Sedge1]

Sounds good. As an aside, is that what you would use to remove the fixture that secures the blade to the deck? This would be a good opportunity to remove the blades for sharpening or replacement. And would you typically need a breaker bar for that job. And is there a torque measure requirement, or just tighten "to taste."
Thanks for the help.
David

 

[Sedge1]

That's what I used, too 24" Pipe wrench. Many times as I am not a good driver
Been removing rocks as I find them...

LOL. I hear ya. Anyone walking my property could tell I have a Kubota - and not a John Deere - just by examining the color of the rocks....
David

 

[jthibodeau89]

Sounds good. As an aside, is that what you would use to remove the fixture that secures the blade to the deck? This would be a good opportunity to remove the blades for sharpening or replacement. And would you typically need a breaker bar for that job. And is there a torque measure requirement, or just tighten "to taste."
Thanks for the help.
David

Blade to spindle usually requires an impact wrench. Either battery or pneumatic. Or you can hold the blade and use a socket or box end wrench.

 

[Henro]

Diggin, you are correct. The blade is no longer embedded - or never really was. A poor choice of words on my part. It was actually lodged in the deformed housing lip, and I was able to hammer it free.
Pipe wrench is a possible option.
Thanks.
David

I was going to suggest the BFH approach. Glad it worked for you.

 

[CoyPatton]

Pipe wrench, adjustable wrench even locking pliers in a bind. It will not look factory by any means but any tool the you can clamp down on it and get leverage to pry it out of the blade path will work. You might need a cheater pipe to get the needed leverage and may need more that one bite, but getting it out of the blade path is not a biggie.

For removal of the spindle nut to remove the blades, here is your opportunity for new tool purchase. Buy a impact wrench battery powered with a fast charger and 2 batteries. It will come in handy if you need to take all types of nuts and bolts off (lug nuts, checking tightness of frame bolts, and the list is never ending). Also pick up a set of metric and SAE impact sockets (if you buy deep well, you will not have to later buy more. Regular sockets tend to crack with the frequent hammering of the impact wrench) with the impact wrench. I recommend 1/2” drive unless you buy a high end wrench then 3/8” will likely do most of what you encounter.
Note you do not want an impact driver for this project. Great tool, but not the one for this project.