goaliedad
Gold Member
Is this gas or electric? if electric, could it be a gasket for the heating elements? I like the idea of cutting the water to the heater when away.
Hmmm...water heater leaking?
- Thread starter Richard
- Start date
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goaliedad
Gold Member
Is this gas or electric? if electric, could it be a gasket for the heating elements? I like the idea of cutting the water to the heater when away.
PineRidge
Super Member
If this tank is in fact leaking and you shut off the water one of two things can happen. If its electric and the water leaks below an immersion coil there could be problems, and if it's gas and the water goes low and the burner comes on that isn't good either. If it were me and I was turning off the water before leaving the house I would also shut off the electric breaker on an electric tank or turn the valve to pilot on a gas model.
PineRidge
Super Member
If this tank is in fact leaking and you shut off the water one of two things can happen. If its electric and the water leaks below an immersion coil there could be problems, and if it's gas and the water goes low and the burner comes on that isn't good either. If it were me and I was turning off the water before leaving the house I would also shut off the electric breaker on an electric tank or turn the valve to pilot on a gas model.
Highbeam
Super Member
Very good point Pineridge, I completely missed that. My gas water heater has a pilot setting on the function knob which would prevent the burner from firing. Don't just turn the thermostat down since the burner will try and heat the empty tank of air.
That water heater tank is a great source of emergency water in the event your supply is interrupted. Forget about keeping a 5 gallon jug around, you have 40+ gallons of potable water in that tank. There is supposed to be a check valve on the heater fill line but you can shut the inlet valve in an emergency to be sure.
That water heater tank is a great source of emergency water in the event your supply is interrupted. Forget about keeping a 5 gallon jug around, you have 40+ gallons of potable water in that tank. There is supposed to be a check valve on the heater fill line but you can shut the inlet valve in an emergency to be sure.
Highbeam
Super Member
Very good point Pineridge, I completely missed that. My gas water heater has a pilot setting on the function knob which would prevent the burner from firing. Don't just turn the thermostat down since the burner will try and heat the empty tank of air.
That water heater tank is a great source of emergency water in the event your supply is interrupted. Forget about keeping a 5 gallon jug around, you have 40+ gallons of potable water in that tank. There is supposed to be a check valve on the heater fill line but you can shut the inlet valve in an emergency to be sure.
That water heater tank is a great source of emergency water in the event your supply is interrupted. Forget about keeping a 5 gallon jug around, you have 40+ gallons of potable water in that tank. There is supposed to be a check valve on the heater fill line but you can shut the inlet valve in an emergency to be sure.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
It won't help you with this one, but here is a tip on water heaters I learned about 20 years ago when I got a tour of a water heater factory.
The water heaters are glass-lined to help with corrosion, but the glass lining is almost always cracked somewhere. The thing that prevents corrosion at the cracks is a sacrificial annode made of either aluminum, or magnesium (with a steel wire in its center for strength) which is screwed into the tank, usually from the top. There is a 3/4" pipe fitting up there, and about a 1-1/8" hex nut. This will be plainly visible on your new water heater.
The way they know the life, is that they know how long the sacrificial annode is going to last.
The way to prolong the life of your water heater is to periodically replace the sacrificial annode. They cost $30-$40, and I replace mine every 5 years, on a 7 year water tank. I put a label on it so I know when I replaced it, and when to do it again. Mine is in a real PITA location, so I have a great incentive to make it last.
Right now I have 20 years on a 7-year water tank and it is still going strong.
The water heaters are glass-lined to help with corrosion, but the glass lining is almost always cracked somewhere. The thing that prevents corrosion at the cracks is a sacrificial annode made of either aluminum, or magnesium (with a steel wire in its center for strength) which is screwed into the tank, usually from the top. There is a 3/4" pipe fitting up there, and about a 1-1/8" hex nut. This will be plainly visible on your new water heater.
The way they know the life, is that they know how long the sacrificial annode is going to last.
The way to prolong the life of your water heater is to periodically replace the sacrificial annode. They cost $30-$40, and I replace mine every 5 years, on a 7 year water tank. I put a label on it so I know when I replaced it, and when to do it again. Mine is in a real PITA location, so I have a great incentive to make it last.
Right now I have 20 years on a 7-year water tank and it is still going strong.
CurlyDave
Elite Member
It won't help you with this one, but here is a tip on water heaters I learned about 20 years ago when I got a tour of a water heater factory.
The water heaters are glass-lined to help with corrosion, but the glass lining is almost always cracked somewhere. The thing that prevents corrosion at the cracks is a sacrificial annode made of either aluminum, or magnesium (with a steel wire in its center for strength) which is screwed into the tank, usually from the top. There is a 3/4" pipe fitting up there, and about a 1-1/8" hex nut. This will be plainly visible on your new water heater.
The way they know the life, is that they know how long the sacrificial annode is going to last.
The way to prolong the life of your water heater is to periodically replace the sacrificial annode. They cost $30-$40, and I replace mine every 5 years, on a 7 year water tank. I put a label on it so I know when I replaced it, and when to do it again. Mine is in a real PITA location, so I have a great incentive to make it last.
Right now I have 20 years on a 7-year water tank and it is still going strong.
The water heaters are glass-lined to help with corrosion, but the glass lining is almost always cracked somewhere. The thing that prevents corrosion at the cracks is a sacrificial annode made of either aluminum, or magnesium (with a steel wire in its center for strength) which is screwed into the tank, usually from the top. There is a 3/4" pipe fitting up there, and about a 1-1/8" hex nut. This will be plainly visible on your new water heater.
The way they know the life, is that they know how long the sacrificial annode is going to last.
The way to prolong the life of your water heater is to periodically replace the sacrificial annode. They cost $30-$40, and I replace mine every 5 years, on a 7 year water tank. I put a label on it so I know when I replaced it, and when to do it again. Mine is in a real PITA location, so I have a great incentive to make it last.
Right now I have 20 years on a 7-year water tank and it is still going strong.
OP
Richard
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 4,997
- Location
- Knoxville, TN
- Tractor
- International 1066 Full sized JCB Loader/Backhoe and a John Deere 430 to mow with
Here’s an update.
I don’t think it’s condensation, nor a gasket. I DO think it’s just at the end.
I’ve not only turned the water off to it, but I’ve drained it (and shut power off) to stop any more leakage.
I’m planning on moving it so I have some other organization to take care of before it’s new location is ready. As such, we STILL have showers to take so what I’m going to do today is fill it, power it, let it warm…take our showers and then drain it again. I figure that’s a lessor evil than more drainage in the basement (albeit small amount).
Bought an 80 gallon unit yesterday and got the 8 year warranty for the exact reasons CurlyDave brought up. I’ll be buying a replacement anode and will swap it out in a couple years.
Interestingly, my old 50 gallon unit had two 5500 watt elements and this 80 gallon unit has two 4500 watt elements.
Here’s a question for you: The top of the new tank has the water inlet/outlet. There is some kind of plastic insert inside each one. Perhaps they are 1-way valves (??). That’s essentially my question. Are they 1 way valves and do they slow down the flow?
I’ve got my “car wash” shower that has some high capacity shower heads in it and I don’t want this to restrict the flow to that shower.
I don’t think it’s condensation, nor a gasket. I DO think it’s just at the end.
I’ve not only turned the water off to it, but I’ve drained it (and shut power off) to stop any more leakage.
I’m planning on moving it so I have some other organization to take care of before it’s new location is ready. As such, we STILL have showers to take so what I’m going to do today is fill it, power it, let it warm…take our showers and then drain it again. I figure that’s a lessor evil than more drainage in the basement (albeit small amount).
Bought an 80 gallon unit yesterday and got the 8 year warranty for the exact reasons CurlyDave brought up. I’ll be buying a replacement anode and will swap it out in a couple years.
Interestingly, my old 50 gallon unit had two 5500 watt elements and this 80 gallon unit has two 4500 watt elements.
Here’s a question for you: The top of the new tank has the water inlet/outlet. There is some kind of plastic insert inside each one. Perhaps they are 1-way valves (??). That’s essentially my question. Are they 1 way valves and do they slow down the flow?
I’ve got my “car wash” shower that has some high capacity shower heads in it and I don’t want this to restrict the flow to that shower.
OP
Richard
Elite Member
- Joined
- Apr 6, 2000
- Messages
- 4,997
- Location
- Knoxville, TN
- Tractor
- International 1066 Full sized JCB Loader/Backhoe and a John Deere 430 to mow with
Here’s an update.
I don’t think it’s condensation, nor a gasket. I DO think it’s just at the end.
I’ve not only turned the water off to it, but I’ve drained it (and shut power off) to stop any more leakage.
I’m planning on moving it so I have some other organization to take care of before it’s new location is ready. As such, we STILL have showers to take so what I’m going to do today is fill it, power it, let it warm…take our showers and then drain it again. I figure that’s a lessor evil than more drainage in the basement (albeit small amount).
Bought an 80 gallon unit yesterday and got the 8 year warranty for the exact reasons CurlyDave brought up. I’ll be buying a replacement anode and will swap it out in a couple years.
Interestingly, my old 50 gallon unit had two 5500 watt elements and this 80 gallon unit has two 4500 watt elements.
Here’s a question for you: The top of the new tank has the water inlet/outlet. There is some kind of plastic insert inside each one. Perhaps they are 1-way valves (??). That’s essentially my question. Are they 1 way valves and do they slow down the flow?
I’ve got my “car wash” shower that has some high capacity shower heads in it and I don’t want this to restrict the flow to that shower.
I don’t think it’s condensation, nor a gasket. I DO think it’s just at the end.
I’ve not only turned the water off to it, but I’ve drained it (and shut power off) to stop any more leakage.
I’m planning on moving it so I have some other organization to take care of before it’s new location is ready. As such, we STILL have showers to take so what I’m going to do today is fill it, power it, let it warm…take our showers and then drain it again. I figure that’s a lessor evil than more drainage in the basement (albeit small amount).
Bought an 80 gallon unit yesterday and got the 8 year warranty for the exact reasons CurlyDave brought up. I’ll be buying a replacement anode and will swap it out in a couple years.
Interestingly, my old 50 gallon unit had two 5500 watt elements and this 80 gallon unit has two 4500 watt elements.
Here’s a question for you: The top of the new tank has the water inlet/outlet. There is some kind of plastic insert inside each one. Perhaps they are 1-way valves (??). That’s essentially my question. Are they 1 way valves and do they slow down the flow?
I’ve got my “car wash” shower that has some high capacity shower heads in it and I don’t want this to restrict the flow to that shower.
