Hobart 150

[Dwellonroof]

My Scag Turf Tiger mower was cutting lower on one side the last couple times I mowed and couldn’t see the problem until today when it got much worse. I’m asking for advice on welding it back since I have it alined but I only have this Hobart Handler 150 wire welder that is 220volt plus gas.
The steel rod is 1 inch and the bracket that is welded on is 3/8 inch thick. Do you think we could achieve welding it.

 

[RandyT]

Clean it to bare metal and send it.

 

[sea2summit]

That^

I’d probably remove it and clean the shaft as well though.

 

[California]

I’d probably remove it and clean the shaft as well though.

The shaft into the bracket at lower center in the photo? It looks under-designed if that factory weld broke.

After removing and cleaning it, then weld on a 'bridge' that goes across the end of the shaft and is also welded to the bracket at both ends of the bridge. This should strengthen the connection better than new.

 

[Dwellonroof]

Thanks for the ideas so I guess the 150 can handle it then.

 

[Sberry]

Burn the paint off with a torch, this will warm it a little, weld it on and I like the bridge idea for a diy guy, a piece of bolt across it.

 

[etpm]

My Scag Turf Tiger mower was cutting lower on one side the last couple times I mowed and couldn’t see the problem until today when it got much worse. I’m asking for advice on welding it back since I have it alined but I only have this Hobart Handler 150 wire welder that is 220volt plus gas.
The steel rod is 1 inch and the bracket that is welded on is 3/8 inch thick. Do you think we could achieve welding it.

View attachment 718581View attachment 718582

If you decide to weld it then you need to clean it very well. Get any grease and oil out of the weld zone. Grind the paint off. Then get it hot with a torch, about 600 degrees. I know, that's hard to judge. Just get it good and hot. Then weld. Your welder isn't really up to the challenge on cold steel this heavy, but pre-heating will make it possible to get a good weld. Not one that just looks good but one that has penetrated. All oils must be cleaned away because they are full of hydrogen. When welding oily steel the hydrogen coming out of the oil will dissolve into the molten steel in the weld. As the weld cools the hydrogen will come out of solution. This will show up as porosity which may not be visible unless the weld is ground on a little. The hydrogen also causes the steel to become brittle. So with the porosity and the embrittlement and poor penetration the weld loses most of its strength, even if it looks great.
Good Luck,
Eric

 

[Dwellonroof]

Thanks for the explanation that helps a lot.

 

[Rustyiron]

If you can separate the 2 pieces I'd grind the original weld completely gone and at least chamfer the round. Chamfering both parts would allow for multiple passes and give you a better chance of long term success with a smaller than ideal welder.

 

[Sberry]

I would like to learn more about hydrogen in oil and grease.