Hobart or Lincoln?

[wushaw]

Sounds like a tough decision, Put hands on both units see how both guns feel, then flip a quarter if necessary.
I inhereted (sp) a MM175 that has been good so far but I want a MM250 and a plasma cutter, this project building thing is addictive

 

[DieselPower]

I have used both Hobart and Lincoln over the years with no problem. I would suggest picking the one that just "feels" best for you since they are both comparable in capability, price and quality.

Personally I have MAG, MIG, TIG, Plasma cutter/welders and AC/DC square wave welders that are all made by Linde. Best welders on the planet but also the most expensive money can buy. I went with Linde Gas about 6 years ago and have used nothing but them since.

 

[JRP]

Will you really miss the extra $100 for the Miller? If a Hobart or Lincoln worked as well as a Miller then professionals would buy the Hobart.

I bought a Miller 250X new off ebay and have never regretted the higher expense. It can weld 1/2 plate siggle pass. When I'm welding something for lifting it is reassuring to have the power and heat necessary to get good penetration.

Getting a brand and model that has local parts support is important. Between the two Miller or Lincoln ask you dealer which parts he stocks for the gun and hose.

MIG is the right choice. With very little practice your welds will look professional. The 75-25 gas makes nice smooth welds with little spatter.

 

[rayc45]

I prefer Miller, but nothing wrong with a Hobart or Lincoln. Just in the 175/180 amp class the Hobart is lacking. I would get the Lincoln. The very best hobby or light pro mig is the 210 Millermatic. Everyone that has one is happy with it. I love mine!

 

[sandman2234]

Ok, without meaning to hijack this thread, I have a question about the welders in question. I don't plan on buying one, as I am happy with what I have. I have used a mig exactly twice, so keep that in mind.
The original poster mention doing some repair work. How does a mig compare to making the same weld on 1/4" or better steel, compared to a 6011 rod hooked to a Tombstone, when the steel is rusty or painted?
Just wondering, and then I will crawl back under my old Miller 330a/bp and leave you guys alone.
Thanks,
David from jax

 

[TexasSD]

Will you really miss the extra $100 for the Miller? If a Hobart or Lincoln worked as well as a Miller then professionals would buy the Hobart.

No, the money isn't the issue. But I also don't feel it's necessary to buy the top of the line machine for the limited use I will give it. If I thought I would use it's capabilities, I would would get a Miller, and I'd probably opt for the 210 instead of the 175.


One of the reasons for not including the Miller in my choices is because of the taps instead of infinite settings on the other two units. For the sporadic use it will get, I thought it would be easier for me to pick a tap setting and go, rather than trying to get the voltage right on the Miller. I could be completely offbase, and if I am, someone please correct me. I'm a welding newbie, and I just want to make the process as idiot proof as possible.

 

[Dargo]

One of the reasons for not including the Miller in my choices is because of the taps instead of infinite settings on the other two units. For the sporadic use it will get, I thought it would be easier for me to pick a tap setting and go, rather than trying to get the voltage right on the Miller. I could be completely offbase, and if I am, someone please correct me. I'm a welding newbie, and I just want to make the process as idiot proof as possible.

I had a MM210 before I got my MM250. You're right the mm210 has taps. However, in actual use, they worked absolutely fine. And, worse yet, you can really push the MM210 to weld as thick of materials as the MM250 will, but it's duty cycle will lower. I kind of miss my MM210. It's easier to hit the right combination of wire speed and tap setting it seems. I only mention this because I thought the same as you; that the infinite settings would be much better. In reality, the tap settings worked just fine for me.

 

[PBinWA]

The original poster mention doing some repair work. How does a mig compare to making the same weld on 1/4" or better steel, compared to a 6011 rod hooked to a Tombstone, when the steel is rusty or painted?

I would suspect that if you used Flux Cored wire in your mig then you would get similar results to the 6011 rod. Using straight wire and gas in a MIG requires decent surface prep. I think you can be a little sloppier with Flux-core if your quality standards allow it. It all depends on what you are doing.

There are lots of different wires available for MIG machines these days.

Check out: Hobart Brothers

They have tons of cool wires for different jobs.

You can find Lincoln's Innershield NR-211-MP(E71T-11) wire at Home Depot and it is good up to 5/16. It's what I leave in my MM175 for quick glue jobs of average quality.

However, if the point you are trying to make is that ARC welders are more all-round versatile then I doubt anyone can really disagree.

 

[shovelhead]

TexasSD - I have welded with the Hobart and liked it. The Lincoln would probably do as well. I would be pleased with either unit. As others have said, go ahead and get a gas bottle and leave the flux-cored wire alone. I believe in the long run you'll be a happier camper. Yes, you do need clean metal to weld with gas, but you need clean metal with flux-cored or it splatters too much. With a 220 volt mig unit, you can repair any carbon steel from sheet metal on up. I do prefer stick rod for penetration when I have metal 1/4 inch thick or more. Anyway, that's my .02. Good luck to you and please post pics of your welder choice and your projects!

 

[Sully2]

If I may I have a question? I havent seen any sort of "comparison" between wire and rods...meaning...

5 lbs of sticks...as compared to say 5 lb ROLL or wire for a flux cored wire welder. Cost comparison and usage comparison? Meaning will 5 lbs of sticks last TWICE as long??? and cost half as much?...sort of thing?

Thanks.