Homemade quick attach

[Chilly807]

I found this tip on another TBN thread, and it would have been really helpful to me during my build, so I thought I would dump it here: for aligning bushings like on a QA adapter, weld in the length of DOM tubing whole, then when welding on the part is complete, cut out the center, leaving behind the desired length of bushing. This basically guarantees that the bushings will align. Awesome.

True, but you'd have to have 10 times the amount of tubing you actually need, which gets expensive. I'd be more tempted to buy a length of round stock the same as the pin size and use that as a mandrel to hold the bushings aligned while welding is finished. If you're going to do that, welding the bushings in would be almost the last thing you do after the side frames are finished and the torque tube between the two of them is in place. If that was the case, having some extra clearance around the bushings would be handy for fine tuning. Maybe use a rotary file to make wiggle room in the bores the tubing will go in if needed.

I'm getting the urge to get started on mine soon, trying to resist until spring gets here and I can work outdoors.

Sean

 

[GPintheMitten]

I found this tip on another TBN thread, and it would have been really helpful to me during my build, so I thought I would dump it here: for aligning bushings like on a QA adapter, weld in the length of DOM tubing whole, then when welding on the part is complete, cut out the center, leaving behind the desired length of bushing. This basically guarantees that the bushings will align. Awesome.

That's a great tip.

 

[joshuabardwell]

True, but you'd have to have 10 times the amount of tubing you actually need, which gets expensive.

In this specific case, I don't think so, because you're going to use the "outer" part of the tubing for the bushings on the loader-side of the adapter, and the "inner" part of the tubing for the bushing on the bucket-side of the adapter. So you could cut the length of tubing for the loader-side, weld it in, cut out the inside, then weld that into the bucket-side. But yes, in other cases, it would add up like crazy.

I'd be more tempted to buy a length of round stock the same as the pin size and use that as a mandrel to hold the bushings aligned while welding is finished. If you're going to do that, welding the bushings in would be almost the last thing you do after the side frames are finished and the torque tube between the two of them is in place.

This worked very well for me. The only problem was that the pin would be juuuust a tiny bit tighter after the welding than before, as the tension from the weld took out the tiny bit of slack available. But it still was acceptable. I only thought of using the DOM tubing method above since it would involve the exact same number of inches of tubing, just cut in a different order.

 

[olekid]

I am impressed with the quick hitch for the LA302 loader. Would like to make one, saw the 4 pictures, is there any way you could send the measurements for the holes and all the pieces. (The plans)

 

[Buty]

I am impressed with the quick hitch for the LA302 loader. Would like to make one, saw the 4 pictures, is there any way you could send the measurements for the holes and all the pieces. (The plans)

I am also interested in seeing the measurements if possible.

 

[stuckmotor]

Nice!

 

[Chilly807]

I'm getting close to starting to build mine now, just some final decisions to make as to exactly how I want to go about it. I had a disc harrow project hanging around my neck like a dam* albatross, that's been eating up all my spare time but it's finally finished.

I found out the L3400 will easily lift the round bales we're buying to feed the horses this spring, so the QA will be a priority build before next winter, but I'd rather get it done now and have it out of the way. Alternately, if something doesn't turn out exactly the way I want it to, it'll give me some time for the re-design process before it's a critical thing.

I checked with Kubota, just in case it was more reasonable than I thought to buy the SSQA adapter. The adapter was $458, plus about another $150 for the plate for the bucket. I came really close to biting the bullet and just buying the factory made one, then it turned out that the SSQA adapter for the LA463 loader is NO LONGER AVAILABLE! At least, there is currently no stock anywhere, and no definite plans to build any more since the loader is now out of production. Plus even if I could get one, I'd have to butcher the existing bucket I have to take the SSQA adapter plate or buy a new bucket which didn't appeal to me much.

The adapter for the LA524 loader isn't the same part number as the one for the LA463, which means there's something different about it. My dealer wasn't sure exactly what the difference was, we both thought it was probably the bucket stops since everything else is the same on the new style loader arms. The new QA bucket is a different part number for the LA524 as well...

So, having committed to build the ATI-style QA, I got the DOM tubing locally. They had 1" ID and 1 3/4" OD (3/8 wall thickness) on the shelf, so it was an easy find for me.

I hope to have some final measurements made this weekend and order the steel on Monday morning.

Sean

 

[k0ua]

Sean it will be interesting to see how you get along with the SSQA build. I paid $400 for mine from a Kubota dealer, that was delivered by him to my house and he helped put it on. I bought a bucket too, but later modified my La463 pin on bucket and still have it as I let the new bucket go with the Kubota when I traded it. I still use the modified bucket a lot. I paid about $125 for the plate, and that included free shipping. I think these things are a bit cheaper down here in the states than up in the provinces. I felt it was money well spent. But I wish I had asked for the SSQA in the first place at the dealers lot. I would encourage anyone buying a tractor of 25 hp and up to seriously consider paying the small amount more for SSQA if it is available. I really enjoy swapping buckets and forks in a few seconds as my tasks change.

James K0UA

 

[Chilly807]

It should go pretty smoothly, if there's one lesson I hope I've learned from this thread it's not to weld finicky things any more than I have to, or at least let them cool between stitches..

Part of my reason for going this way is A) I'm notoriously cheap, and this shouldn't end up costing me a lot to build. B) I can easily revert back to the original condition if I want to for some reason. C) I like building stuff like this and I want to find out if I can build it and make it work. And D), I already have a bale spear, but it's set up for a 3-point lift. If I want to convert it to a SSQA style I'd have to buy 2 adapter plates, one for the spear and another for my existing bucket, plus build a frame for the spear then weld the adapter plate to it, or just buy another SSQA bale spear already made. They're about $400 here, more than I want to spend for the amount I'll use it. I figure I can build the bale spear frame out of relatively cheap square tube, then weld four pieces of angle iron to the back of it to give me attachment points for this type of QA.

Sean

 

[Xfaxman]

.......... I already have a bale spear, but it's set up for a 3-point lift. If I want to convert it to a SSQA style I'd have to buy 2 adapter plates, one for the spear and another for my existing bucket, plus build a frame for the spear then weld the adapter plate to it, or just buy another SSQA bale spear already made. They're about $400 here, more than I want to spend for the amount I'll use it. I figure I can build the bale spear frame out of relatively cheap square tube, then weld four pieces of angle iron to the back of it to give me attachment points for this type of QA.

Sean

Two options, build a 3 point adapter, or put the adapter plate on the spear in such a way that you can still use the spear on the 3 point.

This is what I have, it fits either end! :thumbsup:

Right click picture to open in new tab


On the front SSQA.



On the 3 point hitch.

 

[Chilly807]

So, does anyone have a good idea how much to offset the bucket side holes upward from the loader side holes?

From everything I've seen it looks to be about an inch.

The back of the bucket is angled 21 degrees forward when it's sitting flat on the floor, so if I take the QA adapter as adding 4 inches to the loader length, then measure how much a 21 degree angle changes the height over a 4 inch span, that SHOULD give me the height offset I need. Sound about right to someone's ears other than mine?

Sean

 

[Burtonbr]

So, does anyone have a good idea how much to offset the bucket side holes upward from the loader side holes?

From everything I've seen it looks to be about an inch.

The back of the bucket is angled 21 degrees forward when it's sitting flat on the floor, so if I take the QA adapter as adding 4 inches to the loader length, then measure how much a 21 degree angle changes the height over a 4 inch span, that SHOULD give me the height offset I need. Sound about right to someone's ears other than mine?

Sean

I think your method would work and is probably the logical solution. I looked at the factory quick adapter, it looks like the bottom is about 1 3/8" and it looks like the offset is less on the top but it may just look that way, evenly offset makes more sense.

 

[Chilly807]

The one question I have that I really cant figure out is it looks like your pins from the tractor side are staggered lower by an inch or two from what the bucket side pins are, whats the reason behind that?


edit- I think i answered my own question but, you must want the pins in the same plane when the bucket is level on the ground and the loader pins are the same height as the bucket pins would be correct?

I might have been a bit foggy when I asked that question, reading back over it really isn't clear what I'm asking. On the bucket side of the adapter, the holes for the pins look to be raised about an inch or a little more in relation to the holes in the loader side of the adapter, at least they would be if the whole thing was vertical.

In the picture of Steve's adapter, I've drawn the yellow lines as close to right angles with the adapter as I can, the front set of holes is quite a bit higher. Mine should have the same angle on the bucket (same loader), so if his works fine, mine should too.



Sean

 

[joshuabardwell]

The goal is to make it so that when the bucket is level with the ground, the holes on the QA adapter are also parallel with the ground, so as to avoid changing the bucket's orientation relative to the loader arms. I think the easiest way to accomplish this would be to tack up the two halves separately, then install the front half in the bucket, with the bucket off the tractor, then tack the back half on such that the holes are level.

 

[Chilly807]

I see what you're saying, that way you keep the amount of curl and dump pretty much the same, as well as the bucket height in relation to the holes in the end of the loader arms.

So, it would look like this if everything were level and flat.



Sean

 

[joshuabardwell]

I see what you're saying, that way you keep the amount of curl and dump pretty much the same, as well as the bucket height in relation to the holes in the end of the loader arms.

Yes, exactly. At least that's how it seems to me--bear in mind, I never finished building mine! But it makes sense that you would want to keep the relationship between the lift arms and the bucket the same. The bucket should be pushed outwards an extra few inches, but its orientation shouldn't change when pinned on vs. when QA'ed. Some clever person could work out the math (tangents and such), but I tend to make mistakes or overlook things, when I try to do it that way, so I would just take off the bucket and tack it up in situ.

 

[joshuabardwell]

... and furthermore, this means that the "correct" alignment will be different for different people, depending on the angle of the back of their bucket. When you consider that (as far as I know, anyway) there isn't a standard for the relative angle of the back of the implement to the ground, there isn't really a universal answer either. For example, if you had a set of pallet forks, the back of the forks may be 90 degrees relative to the ground, while your bucket's back surface may be 70 degrees. There's going to be 20 degrees difference in their dump/curl, and nothing you can do about it.

 

[k0ua]

I just welded my QA plate flat on the square back of the La463 bucket without any thought, and it works great!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/208653-so-you-think-converting-pin.html

James K0UA

 

[Chilly807]

... and furthermore, this means that the "correct" alignment will be different for different people, depending on the angle of the back of their bucket. When you consider that (as far as I know, anyway) there isn't a standard for the relative angle of the back of the implement to the ground, there isn't really a universal answer either. For example, if you had a set of pallet forks, the back of the forks may be 90 degrees relative to the ground, while your bucket's back surface may be 70 degrees. There's going to be 20 degrees difference in their dump/curl, and nothing you can do about it.

Now that's something I hadn't thought of, but you're right! I'll have to take that into account when I build the frames for my bale spear and eventually a set of forks, if it looks like it may be critical. Both of those shouldn't be a problem, since a few degrees up or down from horizontal should be fine for their intended uses. The bucket is still going to be my primary tool, so I want that as close to standard as I can get it without going overboard.

Sean

 

[Chilly807]

I just welded my QA plate flat on the square back of the La463 bucket without any thought, and it works great!

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/208653-so-you-think-converting-pin.html

James K0UA

Ahh, but that's because you're naturally lucky, James Me, maybe not so much.

Plus, the QA from Kubota that you used was specifically designed to work with the LA463 loader bucket, so the angles would have been already considered by someone that does it for a living, unlike me. About the only thing you could have gotten screwed up was the height of the adapter plate on the back of the bucket, other than not getting it square or something like that.

That's another reason I'm reluctant to use the SSQA adapter for the LA524 loader, because that loader also has a different part number for the bucket as well as the adapter itself. How much different is the bucket? I don't know and I don't like surprises, especially ones I've already paid for.

Sean