Homemade Subsoiler Ripper for MiddleBuster

[jmc]

OkieG,

Enjoyed looking at your project. Since there's not much weight to help penetration, you need a geometry that will dive once is started. One thing that may resist diving is the very end of your 1.5 inch square tooth. Looks like you cut it off at an angle but the resulting surface is parallel with the ground in the fully raised position. It needs a clearance angle so the leading edge is lower than the trailing edge. The more clearance, the faster it will penetrate, all other things being equal.

That geometry gets worse as the implement rotates down because the bottom surface will rotate, causing the trailing edge to become lower than the leading edge, giving it some lift.

Of course if the ground is soft enough, it won't matter.

John

 

[brewdog]

Great job you did on this. I think it will hold up fine.

 

[Mrwurm]

Thanks for the detailed pics. If you don't mind, I think I'll copy your design and make one for my TSC middle buster /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RobJ]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks for the detailed pics. If you don't mind, I think I'll copy your design and make one for my TSC middle buster /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif )</font>

I'd keep it much more simple. Your TSC or King Kutter brand should just need the blade changed out. It may not go 14" deep and I don't know if the angles are the same but this design looks pretty simple.

 

[OkieG]

The problem with the TSC Middlebuster frame is that the main vertical flat bar is short. Using the method you've illustrated would allow the tooth to penetrate ground about 4-6" when used on my small tractor. 4-6" is a guess on my part. I can measure tomorrow and get a better figure.

On the other hand, if the tip of the tooth is only a couple inches off the ground with the 3PH in the "full up" position, you know you can trench about the maximum depth possible.

Made some trial runs along the old water line at my friend's property. My contraption trenched between 12 to 14". It took 3 to 4 passes to get that deep, and a little extra work in a few places that would stop the tractor and make the tires spin. But it's still much, much faster than a backhoe, or, heaven forbid, a shovel!!

The next step will be to find a gentle bend (metal?) elbow to attach to the subsoiler to feed the pipe through. Still not sure where to find one of those.

OkieG

 

[depasseg]

Nice Job - Looks like it works well.

Have you thought about just welding a bit of chain to the rear of the blade and pulling the pipe through? What kind of pipe do you plan to use? I've seen irrigation poly pipe up to 1.5 inches pulled this way for 150-200 feet. Of course, they also have a "bullet" on the leading edge to open up the soil a little more in the spot where the pipe will go through.
Here's an example of what I'm thinking about:
http://www.toro.com/professional/sws/loaderattach/underground/22910.html

Greg

 

[RonR]

Okie,

Hit any autozone or such store. All of 'em carry exhaust pieces. Or go to a rapid muffler place and either buy something they have or have them fab ya somethin'

Be sure to post after pics.

ron

 

[flusher]

I have the KK sub-soiler/middle buster combo (the XB model) for my 21HP B7510HST tractor.

It's been raining for quite a while up here in the North Valley so the softened soil is really nice for laying irrigation pipe now. I have about 900 feet to lay in the landscaped area around my new house.

I can easily get the sub-soiler 12" into the ground and pull a trench with this small CUT.

Don't know if it would do as well in OK with all the dry weather and drought there now.

The sub-soiler doesn't leave a very clean trench. The middle buster does a better job in this regard.

I'll probably try to pull some 1" PVC pipe into the ground using the sub-soiler, just to see if I can master this method. There are several threads in these forums describing how to do this.

 

[JRP]

An electrical supply house will have large radius conduit. You can get galvanized. You could also go to an electricians shop and ask then to bend a piece of ridged conduit. They will have a hydraulic bender that will bend it like butter. This is what I would do, as you could get the ends as long as you like.

I you place the vertical blade further back from the 3pt then you can get more depth. One problem I have with tractor specs is that they generally leave off the 3pt lift heigth. They now make the arms short so the capacity is greater, but distance traveled is less. Older tractors tend to have longer arms that lift less but higher. It's a marketing game.

As you make your attachment consider if you ever plan to have a 3pt quick hitch like a Speeco or JD I-match. I have two and will never do without one. Consider making your subsoiler so it will work to the the quick hitch specification, as you someday might get educated and discover what you are missing.

Best of luck and post lots of pictures.

 

[OldMcDonald]

JRP, I have to agree about the tpl lift height. I noticed recently that a Same has a lot higher lift than my NH. I like my tractor, but I could do with more depth on the subsoiler I just built, and cannot get it with the limited height of the lift arms, but your post has just given me an idea - extend the arms (not as such, but with a framework, increasing the distance behind the tractor and thereby giving a higher lift). I also agree about the quick hitch.

Okie, The additional pictures you posted shows your implement to be stronger than the original pic suggested. Can you add wings to the point? Even very small ones, angled down when the implement is at full depth (say about 20º) will assist in penetration without needing more power, and make a much better job of saubsoiling. As jmc says you need to assist the machine to penetrate. BTW subsoiling in dry ground gives a better shatter than in moist soil. Old McDonald.