New NGK plug installed Sat., that was first remedy tried and then Seafoam added to gas and sprayed in air intake.
Honda Rancher won't idle unless choked
- Thread starter mjonesnh
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New NGK plug installed Sat., that was first remedy tried and then Seafoam added to gas and sprayed in air intake.
gengine
Platinum Member
IMHO, your carb is the problem, but a rebuild is too far along. I have had success by just pulling the carb, spraying it thoroughly with a can of carb and choke cleaner. Work all the moving parts a little while doing this, then put it back in. The force of the spray will dislodge any particles and the cleaner will wash away the buildup. It's worked well for me more than one vehicle, from dirt bikes to a Harley, even my 76 blazer that hadn't run in 4-5 years. This may not be the "correct" way to do it, but it is really cheap and easy.
Last edited:
toddbiss
Bronze Member
Just spraying it will not clean the small holes in your main jet, while you have it out screw out the main jet and idle jet and make sure all the small holes are clean. You can spray them and then use a small needle to get them clean. I like to use a air gun too.
crazyal
Super Member
If you're going to buy a new carb then why not pull the old one and try to clean it? I would drain the fuel, both in the bowl and tank, and put in fresh before trying to clean the carb. All the jets are cheap. You could also check with your dealer and ask how much of they clean it for you if you just bring them the carb.
I've got an 86 Honda 3 wheeler that started running rough. I figured it was the carb since it was so old and the foam filter had self destructed. So I removed it and found that it looked like new inside it. It turned out that the spark plug had a hairline crack (even though new) and when tight the crack was towards the head. It was straight as an arrow and looked like it was made that way. Replaced it and solved the problem. Not sure if the newer tanks are the same but mine has a fine screen to keep stuff out built into the petcock.
I've got an 86 Honda 3 wheeler that started running rough. I figured it was the carb since it was so old and the foam filter had self destructed. So I removed it and found that it looked like new inside it. It turned out that the spark plug had a hairline crack (even though new) and when tight the crack was towards the head. It was straight as an arrow and looked like it was made that way. Replaced it and solved the problem. Not sure if the newer tanks are the same but mine has a fine screen to keep stuff out built into the petcock.
pollolittle
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mjonesnh - where you located in Tennessee, I'm close to Memphis. If you can pull a plug and disconnect a carb from the two manifolds then you pretty much have the requisite skills to clean a carb. If you don't feel like cleaning a carb there are a couple of shops for 60 bucks will dunk it and get it set right for you. Just pull the carb and take it to them, that's less than half the price for new carb, which most will agree that you just need to clean it. If your close I could probably be convinced to give a hand.
By turning the idle screw up, all you are doing normally is allowing more fuel to bypass your idle jet. Clean the jet and turn the idle back down.
Yes, it looks daunting, but once you do it, you will be amazed why you didn't do it before.
Then on a side note. Anytime I have used seafoam it dislodges more crap and makes my Bikes run like crap or not at all. It doesn't do a good job of dissolving the build ups. Chemtool B-12 does a much better job of dissolving the deposits. However, there ain't much that will dissolve a plugged jet by just putting it in the fuel. Pull and clean.
As for running the bike up to 4-6 thousand rpms and covering it, etc doesn't do much for it. All you have done is put a greater vacuum on pulling fuel up through the jets and not the jet you want to clean. So, let us know what you do or if you need help.
By turning the idle screw up, all you are doing normally is allowing more fuel to bypass your idle jet. Clean the jet and turn the idle back down.
Yes, it looks daunting, but once you do it, you will be amazed why you didn't do it before.
Then on a side note. Anytime I have used seafoam it dislodges more crap and makes my Bikes run like crap or not at all. It doesn't do a good job of dissolving the build ups. Chemtool B-12 does a much better job of dissolving the deposits. However, there ain't much that will dissolve a plugged jet by just putting it in the fuel. Pull and clean.
As for running the bike up to 4-6 thousand rpms and covering it, etc doesn't do much for it. All you have done is put a greater vacuum on pulling fuel up through the jets and not the jet you want to clean. So, let us know what you do or if you need help.
sunnyside360
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Bad gasoline. If you haven't already done so, drain all gas from the tank and put new gas in the tank. Then open drain cock on carb to flush all old gas out, new gas in carb. I go through this all the time with my ATV's that I have for the grand kids (I use a side-by-side). Gas nowadays gets old fast plus you don't know how old it was when you first bought it. This is the very first thing I would do before doing anything else and is an easy fix if it is the problem.
DiskDoctr
Platinum Member
The "choke" on the Honda Rancher is *not* a real choke (which reduces air intake), it is an enrichment circuit (adds fuel).
Your symptoms mean not enough fuel is getting through the carb.
1. Fuel supply- check tank, petcock, filter, floats, primary jet, fuel pickup tube (not sure if this carb has one, but likely). You can rule out and correct most of these by pulling the carb bowl and then turning the petcock to on/pri position.
The pickup tube would be a longish brass tube that sits in a small tube in the bowl. There should be a small hole in the bottom of the pickup tube area in the bowl.
2. Too much air- MUST run it with air filter on and sealed (and oiled- maybe it dried out?), and make sure the intake tube is well sealed to the airbox and the carb...and the carb to the cylinder. The airbox must be sealed (did the foam seal rot away?)
3. Wildcard- spark plugs are known to get intermittent and die on these ATVs (we have a rancher with the electric shift). Spend <$5 and get a new one to be sure
Running Seafoam through the carb can help break down the varnish (I'm agreeing with the bad gas advice given by others). The results may be a sludge that either gets run through the cylinder and out, or it could clog up the jets. But they're already clogged, so hopefully it will help.
Hope this helps.
- JC
Your symptoms mean not enough fuel is getting through the carb.
1. Fuel supply- check tank, petcock, filter, floats, primary jet, fuel pickup tube (not sure if this carb has one, but likely). You can rule out and correct most of these by pulling the carb bowl and then turning the petcock to on/pri position.
The pickup tube would be a longish brass tube that sits in a small tube in the bowl. There should be a small hole in the bottom of the pickup tube area in the bowl.
2. Too much air- MUST run it with air filter on and sealed (and oiled- maybe it dried out?), and make sure the intake tube is well sealed to the airbox and the carb...and the carb to the cylinder. The airbox must be sealed (did the foam seal rot away?)
3. Wildcard- spark plugs are known to get intermittent and die on these ATVs (we have a rancher with the electric shift). Spend <$5 and get a new one to be sure
Running Seafoam through the carb can help break down the varnish (I'm agreeing with the bad gas advice given by others). The results may be a sludge that either gets run through the cylinder and out, or it could clog up the jets. But they're already clogged, so hopefully it will help.
Hope this helps.
- JC
Update:
I called local Honda service and was told that the min. charge would be $80. That included removing carb., dis-assembly, cleaning in ultrasonic cleaner, and re-assemble. Parts were extra if needed, new kit around $40 plus a little extra labor. They stated usually a good cleaning would take care of it but they did have to kit them sometimes.
So, I decided that a new carb might be cheaper in long run. Ordered one for $145 shipped and my son and myself swapped it out today. Can't believe how much better it is running now, not only idling but running at 15-20 mph also. Suspect carb has had issues for some time now and just not noticed until recently. Since this was bought in Feb. 2005 and has never had any money spent for repairs I am not going to complain. Probably will put either Stabil or Seafoam in at every fill-up. Which do you guys prefer Seafoam Or Stabil?
P.S. Forgot to mention that I completely drained tank including reseve and filled with 89 Octane non-ethanol gas just to make sure that was not anything bad lurking in tank. Had already drained old gas out and put 1 gal. of the non-ethanol in when i was trying to get old carb. to behave but it had no effect.
I called local Honda service and was told that the min. charge would be $80. That included removing carb., dis-assembly, cleaning in ultrasonic cleaner, and re-assemble. Parts were extra if needed, new kit around $40 plus a little extra labor. They stated usually a good cleaning would take care of it but they did have to kit them sometimes.
So, I decided that a new carb might be cheaper in long run. Ordered one for $145 shipped and my son and myself swapped it out today. Can't believe how much better it is running now, not only idling but running at 15-20 mph also. Suspect carb has had issues for some time now and just not noticed until recently. Since this was bought in Feb. 2005 and has never had any money spent for repairs I am not going to complain. Probably will put either Stabil or Seafoam in at every fill-up. Which do you guys prefer Seafoam Or Stabil?
P.S. Forgot to mention that I completely drained tank including reseve and filled with 89 Octane non-ethanol gas just to make sure that was not anything bad lurking in tank. Had already drained old gas out and put 1 gal. of the non-ethanol in when i was trying to get old carb. to behave but it had no effect.
Scooby074
Super Member
i only run supreme gas. THe highest octane i can find. Ethnal is bad and if you can find gas that doesnt have it, use it for sure.
Stabil or Seafoam? I use both.
I dose to the recommended specs with Stabil, then add a bit (minimum amount) of seafoam
Stabil or Seafoam? I use both.
I dose to the recommended specs with Stabil, then add a bit (minimum amount) of seafoam
sunnyside360
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Both are good products. Stabil is more readily available in my area so I use it most of the time.