Hood opening

[K man]

Hi how many of you have a hard time opening the hood on your CK. I don't open it too often but when I do it takes about 4 attempts to finally get it to open. In the manual it says to pull on release cable and lift hood up but I have to try it four times when it finally releases grrrr!!! This is the only issue I have with my CK 30 and it bugs me. After the hood is up I check the release mechanism and it works fine not stiff or dry. So why is it so hard can someone explain that to me. Thanks
Gilles

 

[countrybumpkin]

Press down slightly on the hood, and while holding a bit of pressure down , pull the release cable.

 

[davrow]

Sorry K man, never experienced that issue on my CK27. Good luck resolving that one!

 

[K man]

Press down slightly on the hood, and while holding a bit of pressure down , pull the release cable.

Thanks man, I went out and bingo it opened no problem. I was doing it wrong, I was trying to lift the hood while releasing the cable. Duh!!! I knew there was something in the way I did but could not pinpoint it. I will try to remember that in 6 months when I go to try and open it again lol
Gilles

 

[K man]

Sorry K man, never experienced that issue on my CK27. Good luck resolving that one!

LOL I think this will be last time that this happens. Now I love my CK
Gilles

 

[Threepoint]

Title of the thread didn't mention model, so I took a look. Glad it's resolved!

The hoods on the NX series have a different latching mechanism (spring-loaded lever), but also require a little down-pressure on the hood to open easily.

 

[Steve_Miller]

Put tension on the pull then give the hood a bump down with the other hand, releases for me every tiem. Yes, it is hard to pull the release straight down but it does stay nice and snug all the time.

Steve

 

[mj007]

I put a loop of baler twine at bottom-front of grill to grab onto.

 

[Highgear]

What Steve_Miller said !

 

[IslandTractor]

I have trouble with my DK hood too. The latch pull is in a position below the tractor that makes it hard to put down pressure on the hood at the same time that you pull the knob. I've learned to GENTLY hold the latch pull knob with a pair of pliers and then tap the pliers to provide more force than I can just by pulling down. Works fine but not exactly one of my favorite features of my tractor.

 

[holeycow]

Mine on my Dk got stiffer and stiffer for a short while. It was to the point that I was getting concerned that I might eventually get locked out of my engine compartment the pull was getting so great (or I was going to break the knob off the cable).Then I started dribbling lubricant down the cable, drop by drop. I also lubricated the sliding parts on the latch. After several applications on the cable over a period of time the lubricant finally started to dribble out of the bottom of the sheath. Now the release works perfectly. Well actually it has worked perfectly for a couple of years already.

Pushing down on the hood while pulling the release is somewhat awkward on mine too. That's why I lubed the cable. I have no need to push down anymore.

I do like the fact that the hood closes tightly on the weatherstripping. There is no wear or noise from vibration or movement going on.

It is a well designed latching mechanism if properly broke-in I'd say. Mine is a DK90, btw.

 

[IslandTractor]

Thanks for the tip holeycow. I have checked my latch mechanism for signs of rust etc (none) but haven't tried your lubrication technique. I'll give it a try. I always worry a bit about using oils because there is so much dust that gets generated during mowing that I fear the dust will combine with oil and make matters worse. Maybe I will try a silicone type lubricant.

 

[holeycow]

I have used both wd40 and silicone. The wd the first couple of times and then silicone from then on. It is probably ready for another flush with wd soon.

There are cable-luber tools available that would allow you to flush and lube in one event. I have one, but haven't used it on this particular cable yet. I will if/when the cable gets dirty. Mine is still pretty clean.

Dirt bike shops sell cable lubers that work on small cables. The tool is not really necessary for these particular Kioti cables, as there is lots of room between the cable and sheath. Dribbling oil is fast enough for me on these.

When necessary, the lubing tool works well.

You could maybe fit a little boot to keep out dust somehow...

Some dirt bikes have a little 'accordion' boot where the clutch cable enters the engine cases. I say dirt bikes because most street bikes have hydraulic clutches. Most dirt bikes have cable clutches. One of those boots might eliminate the dust problem. I am a little concerned about that too.

PS, obviously the cable has to have a downhill run all the way to the other end, or you have to make it so. My DK cable runs downhill all the way. If you are forced to push lube uphill, the lubing tool makes that possible.

 

[powerscol]

I used a graphite lube. It in a small spray can - goes on wet, then drys so it wont collect dirt like WD 40. It a white/gray stuff and very slick. If I can find the can I will post. got it at a JD dealership a long time back. I also have an oil call breakfree (used on guns) that I too dribble down the cable once in a while. It soakes in very fast, but you need to wipe up the drips as it collects dirt/dust like mad.