How are you guys "skidding" with your skidding winches

[motownbrowne]

I'd have to look again, but I believe on my Wallenstein, they say there's no problem skidding on the cable...

I wouldn't want a winch that doesn't allow this and I'm "guessing" it's because of the brake design.

SR

I'm quite sure that my Farmi manual says it's okay to skid logs while attached to the cable. The manual, does say that when doing so to route the cable through the lower pulley.

What I take from that is that the winch components are designed to be used that way, but that is safer to skid from the lower block because the load is lower and more stable.

I personally skid from the cable without routing through the lower block, but if I've got bigger sticks behind me, I run it through the lower block or hitch to the plate.



One thing about using dead trees as turning posts: it's effective, but potentially hazardous. Each tree is different, but some snags have the ability to drop limbs, or fall over completely, injuring or killing an operator, especially one not protected by a FOPS.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

IF you are going to take the time to route your cable through the lower block, you may as well hook the chain to the blade!

The lower pulley defeats the advantage of using the cable for skidding!

SR

 

[motownbrowne]

IF you are going to take the time to route your cable through the lower block, you may as well hook the chain to the blade!

The lower pulley defeats the advantage of using the cable for skidding!

SR

I agree with you. Just relaying what's in the manual.

 

[namesray]

Thanks for the replys guys. My fransgard has the rachet style brake like was mentioned. Looks robust at the brake mechanism, but I was wondering about the strain on the drive shaft bearings on the winch holding such a heavy load all the time.

Problem I have is I got use to the tow bar technique. I would winch a tree top log to the winch with just the hook on cable, and quickly rehook to tow bar. Move down road and repeat. Pretty simple. Each tree top/log takes most of the capacity of the winch. The 50hp tractor could "skid" 3 to 4 tree top/logs, but no way the power of the winch could move that much weight in a pull. That made me concerned about the drive shaft and pulley bearings and also breaking the 5/16 cable.

But I have become tired of mud and dull saws from using the tow bar. I have seen some here on tbn use the tow bar in their pictures/vidoes (gordon gould comes to mind) and wondered what were those situations. I didn't know if a certain angle with the top link of 3 pt, or different blade designs/heights on the winches or what?. Also I don't know the type of terrain you guys are on or condition of log roads. I chase timber sales and clean up the tree tops left behind. So all the water bars are in and such I cannot remove as reuested by land owners. So those areas really cake the mud on.

also most plots I am on have a few really sharp switchbacks due to our mountainous terrain. I can't make those turns no how if I use the tow bar and hook tight to lift butt ends. I have bent the slotts up before. So I was leaving so much slack the logs were fully dragging and caking in mud when the least bit wet and rutting roads bad. I would have to fix those ruts and that doesn't make money.

Only option I could see was skid off the cable, but like I said I had questions and concerns. You guys have given me some confidence that the winch should hold up to skidding off cable.

 

[namesray]

Here is some skids I did off cable today and type of terrein.

I cut the lower pulley off and welded some angle iron on to protect the pto shaft bearing. Seemed to work ok. Log in picture was about 20+ft and about 20"dia at but end. You can see the difference in height I can get the log out of mud by skidding off cable. Also the picture doesnt due justice to how steep some areas are.

 

[andy1981]

If your doing it to make money I would think that replacing the cable more frequently from the extra strain would be cheaper than and more economical than always ruining bars and chains from mud and having to repair skid roads and the lost time put into those repairs. Ho much time is involved in replacing the winch line and what does a line cost vs chain sharpening and replacement and bar replacement on your saws, and the expensive one is repairing skid trails and roads that have been rutted up and are all muddy.

 

[namesray]

If your doing it to make money I would think that replacing the cable more frequently from the extra strain would be cheaper than and more economical than always ruining bars and chains from mud and having to repair skid roads and the lost time put into those repairs. Ho much time is involved in replacing the winch line and what does a line cost vs chain sharpening and replacement and bar replacement on your saws, and the expensive one is repairing skid trails and roads that have been rutted up and are all muddy.

I bought 135 ft of 5/16 cable earlier this year. Paid .75$ per foot, so a little over $100. I have never replaced cable so I don't know what that is like, but already got 2 hours fixing section of road after heavy rain storm earlier this year.

any one ever replace their cable yet? I have broke mine probably 10 times these past 2 years and have only about 90 ft left, down from 133ft. I think ok for 8 years of use. First time cable broke was last year. Most of the breaks were during "winching" when catching a snag.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Changing the cable can be easy or hard, depending on YOUR particular winch...

On mine, it's pretty easy...

SR