How can I repair this...

Pooh_Bear · Aug 14, 2008

1994 Ford Explorer.
This is the upper bracket for the rear hatch lift cylinder on the left side.
How can I reattach the bracket.

And this is the right side bracket as it is normally mounted.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

plowking · Aug 14, 2008

If that is on the door opening side and not the glass side,I put a piece of metal beyond the holes,rivet it on and rivet bracket to the patch,I'd make patch six inches long or so to disperse the force from cylinder. Looks like the original rivets rotted out ,depends on if they were steel or aluminum. plowking

kenmac · Aug 14, 2008

Best way ( I can think of ) spot weld it back with a mig welder. Touch up with matching paint

Pooh_Bear · Aug 14, 2008

It is on the inside. When the hatch is closed you can't see it.
I considered have it tack welded into place.
Also thought of cutting the bad holes out and replacing it with a patch.
The patch could be flat steel with threaded nuts welded behind it.
Then I could just use bolts to hold it on. How does this idea sound.

Pooh Bear

TedLaRue · Aug 15, 2008

Pooh_Bear,

I too like to use the welded (or brazed) on nuts when I'm repairing something to make it easy to disassemble the next time.

But why would you ever want to remove that bracket? If you're going to be welding something, why not just flatten out those broken out holes with a hammer and then weld the bracket back on, welding around the perimeter of the bracket? I'm pretty sure that's what kenmac had in mind in his earlier post.

CurlyDave · Aug 15, 2008

If you have access to the back side of that metal, I have seen auto shops repair pop rivets by adding a washer to both sides of the metal. Use a big washer with a small hole, what is called a fender washer.

I am certain there are better patches, but on a 1994 vehicle, which is not going to become a classic in my lifetime, the art of "good enough" is important.

Pooh_Bear · Aug 15, 2008

I don't have access to the backside.

Just welding the bracket on means taking it to a welder.
I could probably weld some nuts on a flat bar,
but no way could I weld that piece overhead.
Not to mention the possibility of me starting a fire.

Also, everything on this vehicle is electric.
I'm leary of frying the computer, alternator,
or some other part of the electrical system.
Still, maybe taking it to a welding shop is the way to go.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

kenmac · Aug 15, 2008

Also, everything on this vehicle is electric.
I'm leary of frying the computer, alternator,
or some other part of the electrical system.
Still, maybe taking it to a welding shop is the way to go.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear[/quote]

There shouldn't be a problem with your electrical. Body shops weld on wrecked vehicles all the time.Just Disconnect battery & such

cowboy357 · Aug 15, 2008

Hey PB , If the Brackets stiil Useable. Go to Your local bodyshop supply & get a tube of 2 part Epoxy Adhesive ( 3m I beleive ) for body panels & Glue it back on , It,ll seal the holes & attach it better then new . Really strong stuff & waterproof also. Handy to have around for other needs also. Best of luck. CB

Pooh_Bear · Aug 15, 2008

Hmmmmm.......Hadn't thought about using glue.
How about Gorilla Glue. I hear it is good stuff.
I need some for some other things too.

Good idea. Thanks.

Pooh Bear

firefighter9208 · Aug 15, 2008

Don't think gorilla glue would work, but the two part epoxy (3M) that he is talking about probably would.

CurlyDave · Aug 15, 2008

I second the two-part epoxy. It is far better than gorilla glue for non-porous materials.

ray66v · Aug 16, 2008

I have a lot of experience using 3M #8115 panel bonding adhesive, it will work. But, you really have to have a $70 gun to be able to mix and apply it. You could buy a cartridge and cut it open, then mix it by hand wasting most of it. Thats about $27 and a hassle. You have to remove all the paint from both surfaces in the area of the bond. And you need to find a way to clamp it tightly, (some screws?), while it sets. The vehicle should remain stationary for about 24hrs.

We used to just tack them back on with a mig, they could probably do this while you wait. It would be much quicker and easier.

gotrocks · Aug 16, 2008

I don't know if it's epoxy but "JB Weld" is two part and I have fixed many things using it. Metal - wood - plastic....
don't think I've tried glass YET

Just have some way of holding the parts in place while setup is taking place.

You should find it at most hardware outlets, it is available in 2 setting speeds.

"This is a stick up!"
"Reach for the sky!"

" I'll try; but I'm sure I can't make it!"

JRobyn · Aug 16, 2008

Yes, JBWeld is epoxy, and some of the best and strongest I've ever used. I'd recommend the "regular" JBWeld vs their JBQuick quicksetting epoxy - it's stronger but takes a little longer to set and cure completely. Give it at least 24 hours to fully cure.

If you decide to JBWeld it, try to use popsicle sticks or matchsticks to glop (technical term) a bunch of it INSIDE the panel, then place the bracket and leave the hatch propped open so that the glop inside can "flow" down via gravity onto and over the bracket.

- Jay

Pooh_Bear · Aug 16, 2008

The only experience I have had with 2 part epoxy turned out really bad. But that was 30 years ago. I never have been able to mix bondo or any other 2 part substance (except peanut butter and jelly). I'm sure epoxies have gotten better in the last 30 years and I have changed too (for better??) so I guess I just need to get some and give it a try.

Forgot about JB Weld. The bracket itself is in very good shape.
I could JB Weld it or use 2 part epoxy AND stick some bolts in place.
The hardened goo could really grip the bolt threads and hold it well.

I think I'll get some 2 part epoxy and see what I can mix up.
I really need the practice as I'm sure I could use the skill elsewhere.

Thanks.

Pooh Bear

ray66v · Aug 16, 2008

Go to a local body shop and see if they will tack weld it for you. We did stuff like this for $25 while the customer waited. Tell them you will handle the rest, you just want it welded.

automech · Aug 18, 2008

There is actually a fair amount of push against that bracket. I would say no to glue or epoxy, yes to welding but be careful not to burn thru to the other side and hurt your paint.

kruszert · Aug 19, 2008

This must be a common problem with Ford Explorers because I had a friend over with the exact same problem about two years ago. He had tried epoxy with no success. I tig welded the bracket back on. It had to be done upside down and was a pain! I was afraid to try mig because of sparks messing up other stuff. Covered everyting around - - made short welds to keep the heat down. Turned out pretty well. No electrical problems and didn't mess up the outside paint. This is the only way I would recommend for a long term repair.
the metal is very thin around this bracket.

Good luck,

Reggie