how do I adjust the bush hog?

Harv · Aug 6, 2001

Okay, RCH -- I'm new to brush-hogging, but ya lost me on this one. /w3tcompact/icons/tongue.gif

<font color=blue>adjust the rear wheel so it carry about 1/3 the weight</font color=blue>

I do have the manual for my 60" Howse Rotary Cutter, and it explains quite clearly that the rear wheel adjustments are used to determine the height of your cut (how tall you want the remaining grass/weeds to be). They suggest higher for rough terrain to avoid scalping high spots, and lower for smoother, even ground.

It also instructs to always mow with the 3-pt in float mode so the wheel can follow the contours of the land.

<font color=blue>The toplink can't be rigid</font color=blue>

Again, the instructions in my manual are quite clear on attaching the toplink as you would for any 3-pt implement, and includes a number of pictures showing just that. No mention of a chain or any other flexible linkage.

I've only used the thing a couple of times so far, but I've followed these instructions and all has worked as advertised in the manual, even over some very rough terrain.

So, once again, this newbie is confused (call it a way of life), or I'm just plain not getting what you are talking about. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Rch · Aug 6, 2001

Harv, I got some pictures in the works.

RCH

Bird · Aug 6, 2001

Harv, my Howse (and I assume yours) has a slot for the top link pin instead of a round hole and the hinged or swinging link like my Bush Hog finish mower. And you're right; the manual says to mow with the 3-point in the float position. In order to do that, and keep the front end off the ground, the top link has to be lengthened enough to be pushing against the back of that slot. Just seems to me to be putting an unnecessary strain on it, but I guess it works OK. I just don't do that. I adjust the height of the rear wheel for the height I want on the back, the 3-point for the height I want on the front, then the length of the top link for the pin to ride in the middle of that slot. That gives it room for the mower to move up and down a little bit. Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but it works for me, and I think puts the least amount of strain on everything./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bird

Harv · Aug 6, 2001

Thanks, Bird.

I clean forgot about the slot. It's only a couple inches of slop, but I guess that gives it the play it needs. /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

RCH -
Looking forward to the picts. I obviously still have a lot to learn. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

djradz · Aug 6, 2001

There is quite a bit of good information on the subject under "Bush Hog Rubbing ...Tires" in the NH/Ford Owning forum dated 7/9/01. I stronly recommend the use of chains, (see forum) which will allow the front of the hog to be at a constant height, (and yet still adjustable) and let the hog top link flex. You will never get a better, more even cut than what you will get through the use of the chains which hold the hog deck at a constant height relative to the tractor rear tires.

Rch · Aug 6, 2001

Harv et al, here are two pictures; the top one shows the "hinge link" at the distal connection of the toplink to the brush cutter. If you were crossing, say a ditch and the tractor was going up the side of the ditch and the cutter was still descending the other side of the ditch (it would be like a "V", the tractor is the left limb of the V and the cutter is the right limb of the V) a rigid toplink would be pushed by the leverage of the cutter into the tractor. Something has to give, like break or possibly lift the front of the tractor so that traction is compromised. Someone about 7-8 months ago posted a thread about going down a slope bush hoggin', crossing a swale or medium ditch and the play in the top wasn't enough and the front of the tractor was pried up, he lost traction and started sliding a little sideways to the bottom of the hill. There was something about a brown spot in his underwear ! I'd appreciate it if someone could resurect that post. As you can see with the hinge link on my Landpride, that hinge bracket can rotate nearly 180 degrees giving 12-14" of play. A 7" chain could do the same. I don't think a 2" slot as describe by Bird on your Howse gives you much of a safety factor, especially with some of the slopes on you property. Maybe something would break on the Howse before enough force to push your tractor was generated.
The 2d picture shows the adjustible rear wheel on the cutter, the back end of the cutter a little higher than the front. I raise the 3 ph a tad so the front of the cutter is not riding on the runner so it doesn't wear excessively.

RCH

Harv · Aug 7, 2001

Thanks, Rch -

Great picts -- worth at least a thousand words. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

Now I just have to wait until this weekend to take a closer look at my own setup. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Hope this is helping Trotter13 as much as it's helping me.

Bird · Aug 7, 2001

Harv, RCH's pictures show the same link that my Bush Hog finish mower has, but of course the Howse brush hog is different. And in '95, the Bush Hog brush hog did not have that hinged link either; don't know just when they started using that.

Bird

rbargeron · Aug 7, 2001

For the thread on stained shorts, search all posts, Kubota Owning, for "up on 2 wheels, need new underwear" It ran from July 2 through August 9 of 2000. This got a lot of attention - big discussion about flexible (good) -vs- rigid (bad) top links all topical to this thread.

My Brown 472 rotary and Woods 990 finisher both have a 6" pivoting extension - similar to Rch's pics and Bird's description. They allow some float and prevent the top link from being in compression.

Keep it down on all fours.