How do I hook up Back Hoe / grapple

[woodlandfarms]

OK, so Tazwell dropped a ball in funny, sort of hillbilly way... It looks like I will not be getting my operators manual anytime soon.

So, I got starting instructions from Ken, some basic maintenance instructions. But I have to ask, how do I hook up the hydraulics for the Hoe and Grapple? I guess I know disconnect from the locking mechanism control hydraulic feed and attach it to the grapple connectors...

But what about the beginning, middle and end.

Engage the quickt attach and lock the pins with the control at my right knee

Turn the engine off, cycle the controls to release the pressure?

Disconnect hoses, reconnect hoses? Start up engine and look for leaks?

How do I keep the PTO Hose connectors clean?

How does the quick attach hydraulic locks stay locked if the hoses are disconnected.

Again, sorry on this guys as being PT 101, but gotta I know I will get good advice...

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

OK, so Tazwell dropped a ball in funny, sort of hillbilly way... It looks like I will not be getting my operators manual anytime soon.

So, I got starting instructions from Ken, some basic maintenance instructions. But I have to ask, how do I hook up the hydraulics for the Hoe and Grapple? I guess I know disconnect from the locking mechanism control hydraulic feed and attach it to the grapple connectors...

But what about the beginning, middle and end.

Engage the quickt attach and lock the pins with the control at my right knee

Turn the engine off, cycle the controls to release the pressure?

Disconnect hoses, reconnect hoses? Start up engine and look for leaks?

How do I keep the PTO Hose connectors clean?

How does the quick attach hydraulic locks stay locked if the hoses are disconnected.

Again, sorry on this guys as being PT 101, but gotta I know I will get good advice...

Hookup Hoe & Grapple: First Lock quick attach. It will stay locked. Then, with engine off, cycle the locking lever (also called aux PTO) to relieve pressure. Unhook from locking cylinder and attach to implement. Start machine and see which way the implement moves when you move the lever. The hoses are set up so you can reverse them.

To keep connectors clean: Carry paper towels and WD 40. There are commercial plugs and covers at hydraulic stores, and PT may send some with the machine. Sandwich bags and rubber bands also work.

You already have a pretty solid understanding.

 

[BobRip]

Mark one of the quick attach connectors on the machine with red tape and one on each attachment with the same tape. Always hook then up the same so you train your body the same each time. I make the up direction of the leaver be the closing of the bucket or hoe and it is now the locking of the quick attach. The actions become automatic with time if they are connected consistently the same way.

 

[MossRoad]

Mark one of the quick attach connectors on the machine with red tape and one on each attachment with the same tape. Always hook then up the same so you train your body the same each time. I make the up direction of the leaver be the closing of the bucket or hoe and it is now the locking of the quick attach. The actions become automatic with time if they are connected consistently the same way.

Take that bit of very sound advice, or you will be confusing yourself about every other time you get on the tractor. One time up is left and the next time up is right.

 

[Sedgewood]

Mark one of the quick attach connectors on the machine with red tape and one on each attachment with the same tape. Always hook then up the same so you train your body the same each time. I make the up direction of the leaver be the closing of the bucket or hoe and it is now the locking of the quick attach. The actions become automatic with time if they are connected consistently the same way.

Someone here, sorry I forget who - it was a long while back, suggested getting some extra fittings and swapping them out so that the quick attach and each attachment have a male and a female.

Using this suggestion has been one of my better moves. Not only are the hookups then always the same but the unhooked hoses snap together to keep dirt out.

Thanks suggester,

Sedgewood

 

[Gravy]

That was probably me. I bought a few connectors and set up everything with one male and one female. Whenever hoses are not in use, they just get plugged together. This eliminates having to mess with dust caps that don't seem to stay on or stay clean. It also means the controls work the same way each time.

The one downside I've found is that if the temperature rises substantially, pressure can build up enough to make disconnecting hard. So far, I've always gotten them apart without having to unscrew the fitting from the hose.

Gravy

 

[woodlandfarms]

OK, at the sake of loosing an eye or fingers, how do you know if the hog or tiller are connected correctly? Any other giveaway besides results?

 

[BobRip]

Look at the rotation direction and make sure the cutting edge is facing into the direction of cut. You can see this direction from the seat when the blade is slowing to a stop. I put an arrow on the top of the mower showing rotation so I know how to install the blades.

 

[Charlie_Iliff]

OK, at the sake of loosing an eye or fingers, how do you know if the hog or tiller are connected correctly? Any other giveaway besides results?

The regular PTO, which drives the tiller, post hole digger, mower, etc. has one male and one female connector, so can't be hooked backward. It is only the aux PTO (quick attach) that can be reversed. As noted, you can change that it you want, merely by reversing the connectors on one line from the machine to the implement, and then putting new same-gender connectors on the other implements that use the aux PTO. (Hoe, 4 n 1, grapple, snow blade.)

 

[J_J]

OK, at the sake of loosing an eye or fingers, how do you know if the hog or tiller are connected correctly? Any other giveaway besides results?

On my tiller, the blades are set to cut from the top of the ground to what ever depth. This is in the forward travel.

If your PT is traveling in reverse, the blades are cutting from the set depth to the top. Like Charlie said, make one pass in the forward made, and backup over the same ground. You also wipe out the tire tracks. I don't think you can reverse the blades, there is a slant on the bottom of the blade that sits close to the tiller shaft. The cutters are held on by three bolts an nuts.

Although my tiller frame is 65 in, the blades only cut a swath if 56 in. From tip to tip.