How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks

   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks #11  
woodlandfarms said:
Yes, indeed. I am going to build up one of these guages when I return.

At the moment I am diagnosing a PTO issue. I think it is hose related, but I have not had a chance to look. The other night I began thinking that maybe something was obstructing the aluminum block. I was wondering if there where secret passages, or if they were all pretty obvious (Secret that only Casting could create).

Carl

Carl, there are no secret passages in an aluminum manifold. They start with a solid block of aluminuminum and machine everything. If a manifold block fails, it cracks and leaks. All ports and passages are machined. You could take the manifold out and disassemble everything, but I doubt you'll find anything wrong. Maybe a component that screws into it, but not with the block.
 
   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks #12  
woodlandfarms said:
Yes, indeed. I am going to build up one of these guages when I return.

At the moment I am diagnosing a PTO issue. I think it is hose related, but I have not had a chance to look. The other night I began thinking that maybe something was obstructing the aluminum block. I was wondering if there where secret passages, or if they were all pretty obvious (Secret that only Casting could create).

Carl


Carl,


If you want to check out the PTO for sure, just take off the QD, and connect a hose long enough to go in a clean bucket, or back to the tank. Activate the PTO switch for a couple of seconds, any longer, and the bucket will overflow. I think you are pumping 18 gpm. In 1 minute, you could empty your hydraulic tank. Dumping back to tank is safer
 
   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks #13  
woodlandfarms said:
Yes, indeed. I am going to build up one of these guages when I return.

At the moment I am diagnosing a PTO issue. I think it is hose related, but I have not had a chance to look. The other night I began thinking that maybe something was obstructing the aluminum block. I was wondering if there where secret passages, or if they were all pretty obvious (Secret that only Casting could create).

Carl

Carl,

This is a quick way to check out the QD's. Take the QD off the pressure side of the hyd motor, and plug in to your PTO hose. Put the end in a clean bucket and flip the PTO switch on for a few seconds, and if you get a good flow the QD's are OK. If both the PTO switch and QD's are good, then you are left with the PTO pump. It's not hard to take it off and take it in to a hydraulic shop for a test. They will hook it up and test pressure, and flow.
 
   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks
  • Thread Starter
#14  
Yup, that is what I did... Engine still bogs and it does not seem like 18GPM... I am just running the old PTO Hose back to the tank...

BUMMER!!!

Wonder how much that Solenoid is going to cost...
 
   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks #15  
The replacement PT shipped me last summer had a price of about $180.
 
   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks #16  
Bob999 said:
The replacement PT shipped me last summer had a price of about $180.

Was that for the valve block with solenoid. The solenoid should not be that much.
 
   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks #17  
J_J said:
Was that for the valve block with solenoid. The solenoid should not be that much.

That included the solenoid actuated valve and the solenoid coil. No block or any other parts
 
   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks #18  
Carl,


I have another alternative that you might consider. You probably have read about PT owners, wanting reverse on the PTO. Well, here is your chance to replace the one way valve with a two way valve. All you need is a 12v electric valve, and a toggle switch that will switch you in the forward direction for attachments that need to go forward. . When ever you need reverse, just flip the toggle switch to reverse. Simple and easy to do. You can probably get one of those electric valves from Surplus Hydraulics for less than the cost to replace the solenoid unit.
 
   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks
  • Thread Starter
#19  
JJ

This is a brilliant idea. The only caveat is that within this circuit is the power to the steering / lift circuit. (it goes into this aluminum block) There is a relief valve in the aluminum block for this circuit as well. I wonder if it is all that important or if there is an optional plumb idea to handle it.

You got any ideas as to what kind of valve system might work? I am out of my league on this one...
 
   / How do they make Aluminum Valve blocks #20  
woodlandfarms said:
JJ

This is a brilliant idea. The only caveat is that within this circuit is the power to the steering / lift circuit. (it goes into this aluminum block) There is a relief valve in the aluminum block for this circuit as well. I wonder if it is all that important or if there is an optional plumb idea to handle it.

You got any ideas as to what kind of valve system might work? I am out of my league on this one...


Carl,

One manifold can support many inputs and outputs. I would leave the steering and lift circuit alone. If the relief valve is in that block, I believe that it could still be used. There should be either two or three holes used by the PTO circuit. The relieve valve might relieve into the tank outlet, or it might have a seperate outlet, and hyd line. If it does have a seperate line, then you would plug the tank opening also, and use that line to join up with the output line from the new valve. I am thinking that you might just remove and plug the solenoid opening, and let the pressure run straight through the block and to the new valve. The way I think this should work is this. At the present, the fluid from the pump is going to the block, and with the PTO off, the fluid is routed back to tank. The relief valve is there to relieve the pressure if you deadhead, or there is a blockage upstream, or you stall the hyd motor on the attachment. With the new addition, the fluid flows through the original block and to the new valve and back to tank with the toggle switch in neutral. When you toggle to position one, the fluid flows through the new valve in the forward direction, and the hyd motor turns normally. Should you need to reverse, such as when digging post holes, and you jam up on a rock, then flip the switch to position two and reverse the flow so the hyd motor will run in reverse. This new valve could be mounted up front below the lift arms and wired to the toggle switch on the dash. There may be other ways, so check with someone that can look at the schematic or the block itself, and may come up with a different way. PT should have done this at the start.

The new valve shoud be a 12v electric valve with the capacity to handle 18 gpm's. You could also use a manual 4 way valve with instant max speed. It could also be a motor spool valve so you could regulate the speed of the hydraulic motor.
 
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