If I have a PTO shaft that is too long, what is the best way to shorten it? Cut a section out of the middle then weld it back together? Or is there a better way? If I weld it, how precisely do the two tubes need to be lined up?
How do you shorten a PTO shaft?
- Thread starter Mike_C
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Bob_Skurka
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Mike,
Take the shaft off the tractor/implement and slide it apart, you will end up with 2 pieces, one that attaches to the implement and on that attaches to the tractor. Cut equal lengths off each piece. File or grind down any burrs left from cutting. Apply a bit of grease and slide them back together. No welding! Shafts are supposed to slide in and out a bit so they can work with the 3pt lift.
Take the shaft off the tractor/implement and slide it apart, you will end up with 2 pieces, one that attaches to the implement and on that attaches to the tractor. Cut equal lengths off each piece. File or grind down any burrs left from cutting. Apply a bit of grease and slide them back together. No welding! Shafts are supposed to slide in and out a bit so they can work with the 3pt lift.
Thanks. Obviously I'm new at this. I've had nothing but the backhoe hanging off the back of the tractor up til now. In fact, I'm kind of sad about taking the backhoe off. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
Bird
Rest in Peace
Go to this thread and I think it'll provide you the information you want. Try the link to Bushhog that I listed there and you'll find illustrated instructions.
timb
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Gents - good info and link on instructions for cutting the two-hollow-tube style PTO shafts.
However - anyone have any info on working with the solid-square-bar and broached-hole shafts? (Not sure if this is an older style or just a heavier class shaft) F-I-L has one on his mower that wants shortening to accomodate a new overrun clutch/coupler on the old NAA. The bar is a no-brainer but the only way I can see to shorten the female end is going to be a cut-and-weld since that end seems to be a short (4"-6") broached coupling welded to a hollow tube welded to the universal yoke. He's a pretty fair welder or better but I can see this being a somewhat delicate mod to avoid vibration and early u-joint failure unless there's a secret method we're missing. If that's the only way I think we'd be better shortening the u-joint yoke end rather than the broached end (to avoid exagerating any alignment errors after welding).
I'm trying to talk him into a quick-hitch to kill two birds with one stone - easier hook up for him and probably be a good fit with the existing shaft length.
However - anyone have any info on working with the solid-square-bar and broached-hole shafts? (Not sure if this is an older style or just a heavier class shaft) F-I-L has one on his mower that wants shortening to accomodate a new overrun clutch/coupler on the old NAA. The bar is a no-brainer but the only way I can see to shorten the female end is going to be a cut-and-weld since that end seems to be a short (4"-6") broached coupling welded to a hollow tube welded to the universal yoke. He's a pretty fair welder or better but I can see this being a somewhat delicate mod to avoid vibration and early u-joint failure unless there's a secret method we're missing. If that's the only way I think we'd be better shortening the u-joint yoke end rather than the broached end (to avoid exagerating any alignment errors after welding).
I'm trying to talk him into a quick-hitch to kill two birds with one stone - easier hook up for him and probably be a good fit with the existing shaft length.
timb
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Don't kill bird, he's a great resource! )</font>
Ouch! I had that coming. Poor choice of colloquialisms! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Ouch! I had that coming. Poor choice of colloquialisms! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Bird
Rest in Peace
Tim, I'm not real sure I understand about the kind of shaft you're talking about, but I think I understand, and I'd probably just take it to one of the automotive driveshaft places. They're accustomed to shortening driveshafts, lining them up properly, balancing them, etc. and I'll bet it wouldn't cost much to have them do that.
timb
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Bird -
I originally thought it was just an older style (if you like trains, think of a 'Shay' drive shaft) but on a subsequent visit to Tractor Supply I noticed a large stock of many lengths of complete shafts and individual components for these types of drive shafts, including just the broached coupler and the u-joint yoke.
Sure seems like they expect it to be a 'shade tree' farm-level repair but like you I was thinking that weld/alignment job would be a bit more precise than you're likely to get with home-grown jigs in the garage.
The driveshaft shop is a good idea, but I have half a hunch that the price of them performing the mod on the existing shaft would rival the price of a new one - and either puts a pretty good dent into the price of a quick hitch. Worth looking into though.
I originally thought it was just an older style (if you like trains, think of a 'Shay' drive shaft) but on a subsequent visit to Tractor Supply I noticed a large stock of many lengths of complete shafts and individual components for these types of drive shafts, including just the broached coupler and the u-joint yoke.
Sure seems like they expect it to be a 'shade tree' farm-level repair but like you I was thinking that weld/alignment job would be a bit more precise than you're likely to get with home-grown jigs in the garage.
The driveshaft shop is a good idea, but I have half a hunch that the price of them performing the mod on the existing shaft would rival the price of a new one - and either puts a pretty good dent into the price of a quick hitch. Worth looking into though.
