how hard to wire in concrete block?

[valley]

Well! I didn't get all of that. You said the wall isn't filled. That makes it easy to run romax. Feed it down throw the blocks, at the point where you want to run horzontal cut a slot and chisel just enought to cross lay your wire [not at the grout ]then fill. You can do this with a skill saw and a cutting disk. If you want you can cut at the block ends and feed across the block. I didn't get why you can't fur out the walls even 2" would give you both room for wiring and some insulation. I'll reread a bit. I'd like to see what you're working on. Good luck with your labor.

 

[Gary Fowler]

Dont know if you really want to move that electrical box, but you can cut PVC pipe with plain old nylon twine, the kind used for staking out fence lines or house slab foot print. Just wrap it around the pipe and pull the line back and forth. The heat generated is enough to melt the plastic before it melts the nylon string, If you make a loop where the ends are overlapped and keep both ends taut, then it will cut the pipe all the way around. Still have to be careful that the cord doesnt cut through on side and cut the insulation off your wire, but there wont be any shock hazard involved even in live line situation.

 

[hitekcountry]

I think I would just shift the window over and frame in the difference.

Also as Steve pointed out there are clearance requirements around electrical panels that you need to deal with.

Moving the panel requires pulling the wires, shifting the panel over and rewiring. If that's something you're not comfortable doing than it might be best to leave it alone and work around it.

 

[tommu56]

Use some metal z strips or 1x3 (3/4"thick) furring on the flat with insulation between them and dry wall (1/2"thick) over them

The total thickness will be 1 1/4 thick will that be a problem?

I also boxed around panels like that and took a picture and had it framed to fit over box and used magnets on the back picture to hold it too the door.


Any reason you have an outdoor rainproof panel in there?
Can you change it to a regular in door panel?

can you replace the conduit wit se cable? most electricians would be able do that.
tom

 

[2manyrocks]

Actually, I wish the disconnect was on the outside to start with now that you bring this up. I remember something about the clearance, too, but the inspector was okay with it.

But if the box were moved outside, I don't think there is enough slack in the cable to make up the difference. I need a panel or subpanel or whatever you call it in the basement for a cookstove. It would suit me not to have a closet in that corner--I was just trying to figure out how to hide the box and still have the required access to it.

Here is a picture of the outside with the door and windows (would be mounted 3 blocks up) sitting where they would go unless we extend the block walls further into the garage door space.

Any more ideas?

Why do I have ideas for other folk's projects, but then can't figure out my own project?

 

[dave1949]

Actually, I wish the disconnect was on the outside to start with now that you bring this up. I remember something about the clearance, too, but the inspector was okay with it.

But if the box were moved outside, I don't think there is enough slack in the cable to make up the difference. I need a panel or subpanel or whatever you call it in the basement for a cookstove. It would suit me not to have a closet in that corner--I was just trying to figure out how to hide the box and still have the required access to it.

Here is a picture of the outside with the door and windows (would be mounted 3 blocks up) sitting where they would go unless we extend the block walls further into the garage door space.

Check your local building code about non-safety glass (assuming your windows are not safety glass) minimum distance above the finished floor. It's an 18" minimum last I knew.

I wouldn't extend the block into the door openings. You will need some wood framing beside the window to make a good seal and if your windows have the nail down tabs, room for those. I just watched an Ask This Old House segment where they put stick-on ice and water shield strips about 4" wide over the nail tabs. Looked like a good system to me.

Also, just from a visual perspective, I would put the windows more to the center of the door openings and put the man door on the elec. panel side of that door opening. Ha Ha, I know those things are really personal choices. Maybe you could disguise the elec. box corner with a moveable hat and coat rack affair.
Dave.

 

[hitekcountry]

If it were me I would just stick frame in those openings (yes I did see the pallet of blocks) for a number of reasons.

First I think its work you're more experienced, comfortable doing.

It leaves the option open of converting it back to a garage. You may not find that of value but it's always good to consider what a potential buyer might like. Even it they don't intend to change it, having the option will be seen as a plus.

It would be easier.

From a design standpoint a straight across flat wall of block or stucco would boring.

 

[2manyrocks]

Sorry, I meant to say that the windows are going to be sitting on 3 courses of block so they won't be at ground level. We have a local electrical code, but thankfully no local building codes.

I think it will be a little less boring if I put a sloping metal roof over a concrete patio in front of all this to make an outdoor porch. I considered framing it in--definitely would have been cheaper and if I didn't like the door and window placement, far easier to change it to something else.

 

[dave1949]

Sorry, I meant to say that the windows are going to be sitting on 3 courses of block so they won't be at ground level. We have a local electrical code, but thankfully no local building codes.

I think it will be a little less boring if I put a sloping metal roof over a concrete patio in front of all this to make an outdoor porch. I considered framing it in--definitely would have been cheaper and if I didn't like the door and window placement, far easier to change it to something else.

You did say there would be three courses of block , which should put your window glass about 26-27 inches above the floor. I just didn't want you to be unaware there are minimums in coded areas. It makes sense for young children.

I think a patio would be nice.
Dave.

 

[2manyrocks]

Thanks. I appreciate all the help I can get.

Some years ago, my Dad walked through a glass door while on vacation in VA. Amazingly, no real injury.