How long is the break in period for a 3030?

[Builder]

I remember my L-39 manual saying not to run over a certain RPM level for the 1st 50 hours.

 

[john_bud]

Typically not the rpms, but the load should be limited for the first few hours.

Given that the prior owner didn't run it, you have a chance that the cylinders are glazed. I would think running it VERY hard for a couple hours would help seat the rings if they are not seated. Most of the poor performers that I have heard about or experienced were run too lightly at first and the rings failed to seat. That lead to low running compression, high leak down rates and burning oil. Several were fixed by running at full rpm and near stall loads for 1-2 hours. The "old guys" used to put a table spoon of Boraxo or comet cleanser in the air intake (bypassing the air filter) to break the cylinder glaze and allow the rings to seat. That procedure used to be in the CAT manual.

In all likelyhood, the tractor is fine and you can just operate it at the PTO speed, but keep an eye on the temp and stop every hour to check fluid levels. After every hour check, add an extra hour until the next check. When you get to 8-10 hours between checks, just do the normal daily checks from then on. Should be no issues as it's a Kubota, however, were it a different brand......







..... it'd still probably be no issue.

jb

 

[Builder]

Typically not the rpms, but the load should be limited for the first few hours.

Given that the prior owner didn't run it, you have a chance that the cylinders are glazed. I would think running it VERY hard for a couple hours would help seat the rings if they are not seated. Most of the poor performers that I have heard about or experienced were run too lightly at first and the rings failed to seat. That lead to low running compression, high leak down rates and burning oil. Several were fixed by running at full rpm and near stall loads for 1-2 hours. The "old guys" used to put a table spoon of Boraxo or comet cleanser in the air intake (bypassing the air filter) to break the cylinder glaze and allow the rings to seat. That procedure used to be in the CAT manual.

In all likelyhood, the tractor is fine and you can just operate it at the PTO speed, but keep an eye on the temp and stop every hour to check fluid levels. After every hour check, add an extra hour until the next check. When you get to 8-10 hours between checks, just do the normal daily checks from then on. Should be no issues as it's a Kubota, however, were it a different brand......







..... it'd still probably be no issue.

jb

Well, my Kubota wasn't "typical". It said not to run it over a certain RPM for a set number of hours. A 3030 has a different engine, so this may not apply, but it's best to check your owners manual regarding "break-in".

 

[RobJ]

So by what you guys are saying.....work it like a dog.......would you run the belly mower at full throtle????

Swmpbgy1

Like a rabid dog!! I run my mowers, especially a FM and pto speeds.

 

[amirm]

I see comments on both running it at 2200 RPM and full throttle. I have a lot more experience with boat diesel engines and there, we always ran them at 80% of max RPM to achieve full temp, but not to wear the thing out prematurely. And that is what I do with my BX-24. Is the engine really designed to rull at max RPM instead of 80%? I don't have the manual handy but I thought I recalled similar recommendation to run at below max throttle there. Is my memory and understanding incorrect?

 

[john_bud]

I see comments on both running it at 2200 RPM and full throttle. I have a lot more experience with boat diesel engines and there, we always ran them at 80% of max RPM to achieve full temp, but not to wear the thing out prematurely. And that is what I do with my BX-24. Is the engine really designed to rull at max RPM instead of 80%? I don't have the manual handy but I thought I recalled similar recommendation to run at below max throttle there. Is my memory and understanding incorrect?

You should run the engine at the specified PTO speed for PTO driven attachments. That's not max rpm.

 

[amirm]

You should run the engine at the specified PTO speed for PTO driven attachments. That's not max rpm.

Thanks for the reply. Putting the required PTM speed aside for a second (say, I am just driving it from point A to Point B), what is the recommendation for engine RPM? I run mine at 80%. We know running it too low keeps the engine at too low of temp which is a bad thing for diesel engines. So 2200 RPM doesn't seem right to me. Would anyone recommend running at Max?

 

[Sully2]

You should run the engine at the specified PTO speed for PTO driven attachments. That's not max rpm.

Its not? It sure looks like it is on MY B3030. "About" 2800 RPM is all my engine will do and thats where the color band on the tach is for running the PTO at 540

Since I have no PTO equipment...its no biggie for me except when Im traveling on the highway and thats where I run mine to get the max SPEED to keep my on-road travel time to a minimum

 

[Sully2]

Thanks for the reply. Putting the required PTM speed aside for a second (say, I am just driving it from point A to Point B), what is the recommendation for engine RPM? I run mine at 80%. We know running it too low keeps the engine at too low of temp which is a bad thing for diesel engines. So 2200 RPM doesn't seem right to me. Would anyone recommend running at Max?

Depends on where point A and point B is. If Im crossing a 4 lane highway...you can bet your last $$ Im going full bore across it. If Im puttering down my road to BS with a friend of mine...that lives about 1/4 mile away...WHY would I want to run it full bore?? Running at about 2200 RPM isnt going to hurt anything at all

 

[Dargo]

Would anyone recommend running at Max?

Yup, I would. I've never owned a Kubota 3030, but I've owned no less than a half a dozen Kubota diesel powered pieces of equipment. The manuals I have had with them are very similar to the manual I have with my JD and CNH equipment; it says (and I quote from the manual) "The engine is ready for normal operation. Avoid unnecessary engine idling, watch for fluid leaks and check levels frequently". Other than that, the manuals basically instruct the operator to operate the machine as normal but to be sure to check bolt tightness and to be sure to do the 50 hour maintenance as directed. To be blunt, I would never buy a new piece of equipment that was not ready to work. Time is money and these companies know that fact.

Several ASE Certified Master Technicians I know in the auto industry are very adamant that even new cars are pretty well ready to go right from the factory. The machining and other tolerances from the factory are much better than they were 30, 40 and 50 years ago. Way back then I recall manuals giving very specific instructions on how to "break in" a new engine. As I mentioned, and most all farmers and professionals I know feel the same way, if it isn't ready to work when I buy it; I don't need it. Good luck and be safe!