How long should it take to bush hog an overgrown field?

   / How long should it take to bush hog an overgrown field? #41  
Without having the GIS overlay, I'm not positive what all is his for scale. He's got 80 acres, but the area that's in need of clearing is a 300' or so swath along one side. I asked him how big it was and he doesn't seem to understand the concept of acreage when describing a cover type. He does sheet rock and trains bird dogs. He's not a farmer. :)

The plan is for me to go out there with him when the snow's gone. I'm going to have some down time after the ground thaws anyway, so we can scout it out and see what a good game plan is. I already told him that we should figure out a day rate, then go for a couple days and reassess the situation, and he likes that approach. Now I'm wondering what's a reasonable expectation of speed and you guys are giving me that data, much appreciated!
If you can figure out the spot to be done via Google Earth you can measure it pretty close. Check out Welcome to FindLotSize.com it's pretty good for measuring distance and space.
 
   / How long should it take to bush hog an overgrown field? #42  
I think a flail would be a better machine to have for some of your job. The reason they cost more is because they do more and do it well.
That job is essentially at the top extreme of flail capability -- a heavy duty item. Borderline mulching. Doing a good job would require very slow groundspeed. Lots of blade maintenance.

A strong bushog would fly through it by comparison and at the end just sharpen 2 blades.
 
   / How long should it take to bush hog an overgrown field? #43  
Flails dont cost more because they do more or better....

They cost more because they have more moving parts, which makes them more expensive to build.
 
   / How long should it take to bush hog an overgrown field? #44  
Perhaps it's time to step back and look at the long-term plan for that area. IF it's going to be converted to good upland bird habitat, and the field is loaded with cool-season grasses, then a burn as those grasses begin growing will help reduce them in preparation for replacement with the native warm-season grasses common to the northern prairies, and better habitat for some upland birds. NWSG grasses generally are drilled in, as they have light, fluffy seeds. Nobody wants to tear up an expensive NWSG drill on stumps left behind by a rotary cutter. Also, if some of those saplings are native trees that produce edible seeds for the birds, it would be a good idea to leave some patches of them. If you do use a rotary cutter, make sure you have a good flat edge on the blade and good rotational velocity to leave shattered, not intact, stumps. Better for feet and equipment.
 

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