clemsonfor
Super Member
i run 5 guarts in my ym2000 that puts it right at the top of the full mark. I run mine all summer long in 90+F heat so i want as much oil as i can put into that crank case
How much blow-by is too much?
- Thread starter woolyAcres
- Start date
- Views: 20326
OP
woolyAcres
Platinum Member
I looked at it again today and thankfully, NO, blow-by is nothing like that. In fact, it seems there are more fumes/gas and velocity coming out of the dipstick (when removed) than there are coming out of the crank case vent. There are no indications near the vent tube that it's blowing much if any oil out that way. I suppose it could be plugged, but it didn't seem to be.
I changed the oil and filter as soon as I bought it (about 15 hours ago) and I put 5 qt and a new filter. So that seems about right. It doesn't indicate a need for additional oil so I don't think it's blowing that much out. Certainly not enough to worry about.
I had it out today to box blade 23 tons of gravel delivered to get the driveway prepped for winter. Most of it was tail-gated by the delivery truck, but I still went over it a few times. It ran just fine. In fact, i was able to pull a 5' box blade nearly full of gravel up the hill in the driveway in 4th gear and it didn't complain at all. So I think my "power issues" have everything to do with the heavy duty 5' brush hog. If I want to continue using that I'll just have to slow down and take smaller bites.
I'm considering this "issue" solved. I'll re-focus my tractor efforts/energy on getting the alternator sorted out. It's been replaced but the 'charge' light is still on. Maybe I've got a bad regulator? And of course replacing hoses and the controller for the FEL.
Thanks everyone for the input. It's reassuring to me that I can post a question here and get a number of well informed opinions. Many thanks.
Neat 1500
Platinum Member
If I get it out to mow on the weekend I'll video the YM14, the 1500 vent is bone dry so no use videoing that one :laughing:
woolyAcres, In regards to your comment about the alternator light remaining on. Have you checked with a voltmeter to assure what voltage you are getting? Just to assure it is not just a warning light problem.
clemsonfor
Super Member
my vent is not shall i say dry but is not slobbering and dripping all over the place either. It may have a drop at it after i work it hard on a summer day. I can touch it with my finger to get it off. It does not really leave an oily spot at all under the hose if i part it either. Not sure if the rubber absorbs the oil cause i dont remember a spot under it ever...not to say it has never dripped. In the field i guess grass may take some moisture away as it passes by? But by no means does it drip or slobber out of the blow by tube, just that every now n then i can touch it with my finger and get a half a drop of oil there at the end.
OP
woolyAcres
Platinum Member
I haven't yet. The previous owner said he had charging/dead battery problems so he installed a 'blade' switch on the battery ground. He (and I) simply disconnect it when the tractor is off. He felt that fixed it or at least cleared up the electrical problems. I don't buy that. In fairness, the charge light happened on my watch. I was poking around under the dash one day and broke one of the fuses. I took a quick look at the wiring diagram and that might be why the charge light is still on. Just yesterday I ordered parts to fix up a few things including updating the 'fuse box'. I'll work on that over the weekend and hopefully get all this sorted out.
I do have a confession. When the alternator froze up, it was enough to stall the tractor. To get it going I loosened the alternator and 'stashed' the belt out of the way. I wasn't paying attention that the belt also ran the fan and water pump. I just drove it back to the house like that but it was probably ran for 15 minutes. The temp light never came on but I'm eager to get my temp gauge installed because I've never seen the temp light on and don't know if it actually works.
The brush hogging and lugging down that started this thread were done AFTER the alternator was replaced, so the fan and water pump WERE working- but the charge light was on.
My order of operations will be
1. fuse box and wiring
2. get alternator sorted out
3. temp gauge
4. loader control valve and re-plumbing FEL (this is last because it's the biggest job)
clemsonfor
Super Member
I ordered the same fuse panel that hoye puts in thier kit off ebay. It was like $4-6 shipped from china. I then just sourced the screws needed to attach it and the fuses and had the crimp ends needed and did it my self. I saved a good bit. My panel looks just like Hoyes. i think i did a thread on it here somewhere if you like i can dig it up as it was this spring.
Hoyes kit is good though just keeps you from having to source the parts seperate if you do not have them.
Hoyes kit is good though just keeps you from having to source the parts seperate if you do not have them.
OP
woolyAcres
Platinum Member
I'd actually seen that thread and was planning to go that route, but when I was putting together a Hoye's order yesterday it popped up and I just figured it would be faster and easier to get it all at once. It certainly does cost more, but having everything ready to go will make is much simpler and raise the likelihood that it gets done.
clemsonfor
Super Member
You are correct about that. I had the panel for a year before i actually installed it.
California
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2004
- Messages
- 14,976
- Location
- An hour north of San Francisco
- Tractor
- Yanmar YM240 Yanmar YM186D
! I still have a temperature gauge I bought in 2003 when I bought the YM240. I never got around to installing it because I've never seen apparent overheating. My occasional tests with a 'infrared' remote thermometer, when hot, show temperatures well within normal limits, and the simple grounding test shows the warning light is functional.
