How Much Counter Weight ?

[tennis]

I have a front mounted snow blower on my BX2200. My question is what is the correct weight to carry in the rear weight box for a counter ballance? Right now a have 3 old half bags of cement inside a couple of plastic bags my guess would be about 120 lbs. Other than starting the tractor a couple of times this winter so far I have not had to remove any snow. I must admit I can't wait to try it out.

 

[Thomas]

Mike,
There were many post on this topic about a year ago w/alot of good infomation,and I can't seem to locate it./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif
Your dealer should have idea of how much weight.
I would almost try and match the weight of the blower..and little less weight if useing tire chains,also depends on the slope of your driveway if any.

Another Granite Stater on TBN /w3tcompact/icons/cool.gif ooh we'll get the white stuff soon enough./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif


Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[tennis]

Thanks Thomas. Like you I did a forum search first before posting my question. Oh well. I'll call the dealer.

 

[Paul_in_CT]

Yep, as hard as it is to believe sometimes we can`t get the answer online (TBN) /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif. Then we have to break down and call the dealer. I personally dont know how I ever purchased anything before the internet. I usre it to look up info on all my purchases/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[JRP]

The rule of thumb for weight on a 4WD tractor is 40% of the total tractor/implement weight on the front wheels, 60% on the rear. One way to measure is to get your tractor equipped with the implement you want to use, and drive over a truck scale, one axle at a time.

Remember that if you need more weight on the rear, for example, that 200 pounds of ballast (water or steel) in the rear tires adds 200 pounds to the rear axle weight only, but 200 pounds four feet behind the 3pt has more mechanical advantage (leverage), and will actually lessen the weight on the front axle while transfering more than 200 pounds to the rear axle. Calculations are beyond the scope of this post. An engineer friend can help you with formulas quite easily.

I bought a 700 pound elevator weight at a junk yord for $30 to hang on my 3pt. easy project, easy on, easy off.

Good luck,

JRPoux

 

[Anonymous Poster]

BECAUSE I LIKE TO MAKE THINGS AS UNCOMPLICATED AS POSSIBLE, I WOULD PUT ENOUGH WEIGHT IN THE BOX SO THE REAR END DOESN'T FEEL LIGHT. DRIVE UP & DOWN THE DRIVEWAY. IF THE REAR END STAYS FIRMLY ON THE GROUND, YOU HAVE ENOUGH. IF IT FEELS LIGHT WHEN YOU DRIVE OVER BUMPS, ADD MORE. LIFE CAN BE SIMPLE IF YOU WANT IT TO.

 

[TresCrows]

Go down to Tractor Supply and buy one of those cheap back blades. That will be plenty of weight on the rear. Check the fit up that it will work on the BX. Mine fits fine but I think TS has locally or regionally sourced some items so they could vary from what I purchased. It is only 170 dollars, it is not a fine piece, but it will likely push snow and do light grading, push gravel around etc. Doesn't the snowblower manual give you advice on what to use as ballast?
J

 

[RAllen]

Tennis

I want to give you a different viewpoint. First, I have chains and loaded rear tires on my Kubota 2910. I use a FRONT mount blower and plow in fourwheel mode. That said I want to caution you on putting TOO MUCH weight on the rear. I plow hilly terrain and my biggest problem is front wheel tracking especially when I use float for the front mount blower. I some snow conditions and on hilly terrain, I have problems steering. If I use my rear blade the problem is even more pronounced. Chains will not fit so I am going to stud the front tires.

Bottom line is you will have to figure out what works best with your particular equipment, snow conditions, terrain etc. I would not spend any money until you try different weight combinations to see what works for you. If you need more weight, the first thing I would do is load your rear tires. Chains would be next. Goodluck and happy experimenting!


Rick

 

[glennmac]

I agree with RAllen. The front tires will tend to slip sideways in snow, so you want to leave sufficient weight on them. My 2910 does that with a fel on front and a backblade on the rear.

Loading the rear tires is the most important thing for snow, I think. It prevents the rear wheels from lifting without imparting a lifting force to the front wheels. It adds weight to the rear wheels, which are the main tractive force even when you are in 4wd. Finally, if you have a lot of ice, you can slash your rear tires and let the calcium chloride run out to melt the ice.

If you fill your rear tires, they of course will remain filled after the snow melts, which you may or may not want. All things are compromises--balances.