How much longer from bad t/o bearing? Art, others?

[MMM]

Just had the teflon part of constant mesh clutch release on my 380B (industrial 485) disentegrate. I'm in dire need of tractor right now, so I've adjusted to where I can shift again, but wonder how long before bearing or fingers wear out completely.
When I replace clutch, I've heard I can upgrade to 12" CIH685 clutch and also revert to older 84series type t/o bearing setup with freeplay, by mounting spring to hold bearing off fingers. Does anyone have any info on theses 2 procedures?
TIA, Mac

 

[geneP]

I'm glad to see others on here with the 85 series tractors. I bought my 385 a couple of months ago and began reading the owner's manual and immediately became confused about the clutch adjustment. After many questions on various boards and to the dealer service manager, I come to the conclusion that Case-IH supplied the tractors with two styles of clutch/throwout bearings. If it has the teflon pad on the bearing it will have adjusting bolts on the clutch fingers and need an external spring keeping pressure on the bearing so the bolt heads will stay in the slots in the teflon pad. Otherwise the bolt heads will chew up the pad as they move around. My tractor had no teflon pad or bolts on the clutch fingers. It also had no way to adjust for free play in the pedal and the bearing rode on the clutch all the time. I took the advice of the service person and drilled/tapped a free play stop on my pedal and adjusted the bearing away from the fingers. One mechanic in Canada said that he would often toss the teflon ring when replacing the clutch and adjust for free play. To answer your question, because of the above I see no problem with adjusting some free play between the bearing and the clutch fingers and run the tractor. I don't know if you will have to adjust the bolts out on the clutch fingers or if you can get enough adjustment with the external linkage.

 

[MMM]

Thanks Gene. I suspect the washer went to peices as the press plate suddenly would not disengage clutch. I'll have a look and see how much clutch thickness I have left and check parts manual for finger adjustments. I'm going to switch to the 84 series freeplay in either case. Can you look and see exactly where stop was attached on pedal and tractor to limit TO contact- ie what does stop hit? Seems it would take a spring pulling TO away from fingers.

 

[geneP]

"Seems it would take a spring pulling TO away from fingers."

If I understand your question, originally the spring kept a pressure against the fingers and throwout bearing so that the fingers would stay in the slots on the teflon washer. The throwout bearing is designed to be constant running. modifying the system will require a spring pulling in the opposite direction and in another location.

On your clutch pedal , just in front of the pivot, there is a casting that runs parallel with a flat spot on the clutch housing. I drilled and tapped a hole to place a bolt and lock nut in the casting. The head of the adjusting bolts hits the flat spot on the clutch housing. I then installed a clutch return spring between the top of the clutch pedal and a plate just behind the engine. Once this is done, there is no need to change the clutch (Unless it has other problems) because the bearing and clutch fingers only make contact when applying the clutch.

There is an inspection plate in the bottom of the clutch housing that should allow access to survey the damage to the teflon washer and adjust the clutch fingers, but since mine doesn't have the bolts on the fingers I can't say for sure.

If you want pictures of my clutch pedal stop and spring, send me your email address and I'll snap a picture.
Gene

<font color="blue"> </font>

 

[CMunger]

The clutch that does not have the adjustment bolts, with stamp steel fingers is a 11" Auburn/Spicer clutch, the one with the adjusting bolts is a 12" Rockford. To upgrade to the 12", you need to change the flywheel, or there are companys that have a 11" Rockford replacements that will fit in place of the Auburn/Spicer, and the flywheel does not need to be replaced. To change from a continuous running T/O bearing, I think requires a different a different T/O bearing carrier (longer)
Chuck M.

 

[geneP]

Hey Chuck, we talked a few weeks ago on this clutch subject...Do you see any harm in adjusting some free space between the stamped steel fingers and the throw out bearing? It seems to me that we are asking for trouble with the bearing constantly turning, even if it was designed for it.
Gene

 

[CMunger]

Massey Ferguson is using the same thing in some of their tractors, I do not know what the engineers know, or think, about this consept, I have used the continous running T/O bearing in the older style, where there is free play, and had real good results, the bearing is stronger and lasts longer. Alot of times I have seen clutches that have failed, that were not worn out, but the bearing froze and ruined the fingers. Depends on the make of the tractor and how good of a designed clutch it came with.
Chuck M.

 

[MMM]

Thanks for pic Gene. Too little too late though. One finger bent and TO balls fell out when inspection cover was pulled. Didn't see a teflon washer or even pieces of it. I set up for freeplay for when I install new clutch kit on order.from Walt's Trac Pts.(50% cheaper than Scott Tractor/CaseIH) I installed set screw, but doesn't seem neccesary on my tractor as shuttle reverse lockout rod limits pedal return travel.
Thanks again, Mac

 

[geneP]

Hey Mac, Have your repaired the Case clutch yet? If so, please fill us in on what you found.
Gene

 

[MMM]

I'm off coast of Spain working, so it'll be April before I get back home to split her.Couldn't get all parts I needed in time. I'm also going to replace park brake band while it's split and I'm trying to find info as to wether the fwd/rev clutch should be pulled/replaced as well.