How much oil in injector pump?

[George_Martin]

Sorry, it took me a while to get back to my computer. I put in Mobil 1, 5w-30 because I wanted the superior lubrication of a synthetic along with the multi-vis lubricating capabilities when I start it at 0 degrees this winter.

 

[greg_g]

George, at 20 hours you're still 30 hours short of the manufacturer-specified break-in period. Obviously it's your choice in the end, but I personally DO NOT recommend synthetic anything in these Chinese tractors until after at least 300 "break-in" hours. Synthetics are so "slippery", the moving/rotating parts aren't actually exposed to ENOUGH friction to achieve the desired "working fit".

I've currently got Shell Rotella 15W40 in the engine, and (non-foaming) Shell Spirax HD 80W90 in the tranny and differentials. I'll decide whether or not to go synthetic when I pass the 300 hour mark on my KAMA. The way oil prices are going up, the price gap between natural and synthetics may be closing.

Your profile doesn't list a location, so I have no idea of how cold it gets where you live. But I can tell you that my KM454 has no glow plugs, and starts down to 15F without any kind of cold weather assist at all. Below that, and I just plug in the oil pan heaters overnight.

//greg//

 

[George_Martin]

Greg, glad to get your input. I brush hogged a couple of 20 acre hay fields this summer that had not been cut in several years. It was some brush but mostly grass. I could not go four laps without my temp guage going well into the red and having to thoroughly clean the radiator. I am mostly going syn because it can go to higher temps before it cooks into sludge.

George

 

[greg_g]

I'm not following your logic George. Oil is a lubricant, not a coolant. In fact, I've got two vehicles with oil coolers.

Why not just fix the cooling system? These diesels are designed to run at 80C. If yours doesn't, you should fix whatever is preventing that from happening. When you blow coolant because of an untended situation with your cooling system, engine oil of any kind isn't going to be much help. The longer you run the engine at temps above 80C, the more long term damage is inflicted on the internal parts.

//greg//

 

[SPIKER]

greg: 80 C is not that hot, at 100C it is 212 which is OK but getting warmer than should 90 is pretty ideal. remember that most cars run in the 220 range for proprt operating temps. OIL does cool as it reduces friction and disipates heat into the block & air . anyhow the cause for the high temps he tated was brush hogging in high weeds where the RAD got clogged with seed/fluf pretty fast.

mark m

 

[greg_g]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( 80 C is not that hot, at 100C it is 212 which is OK but getting warmer than should 90 is pretty ideal. remember that most cars run in the 220 range for proprt operating temps. )</font>

Uh-uh. We're not talking car here, even though my Mercedes turbo-diesel has an 80C thermostat. You're misapplying gasoline engine logic here. Diesels run cooler by design, 80C thermostats being quite common. In the Benz, a sustained 90C is cause for concern - and a sustained 100C or over means troubleshooting is overdue. With respect to operating temp, my diesel tractors are no different. Plus, anything that is designed to run over 100C likely has a coolant recovery system. I've yet to see a Chinese CUT equipped with an OE recovery system.

You're probably not far off the mark about air flow blockage through the radiator. The fact remains that if George's tractor has an 80C thermostat - and is not running a constant 80C under load - something need attention. But changing to synthetic oil doesn't qualify.

Again, oil lubricates. Coolant cools. If the coolant is not permitted to return to or below thermostat temps, the oil will just continue to get hotter - till it's either to thin to lubricate properly, or it simply breaks down.

//greg//

 

[Soundguy]

Just to add apoint ( of contention ).. Oil does do some cooiling... look at oil cooiled turbo's. And as far as synthetic oil goes.. though I'm not a huge fan of it.. as is constantly pointed out in the oil forum.. a synthetic oil has a higher temp range before the oil dies and coked up important things.. like turbo bearings.. etc.

Still.. all that said, I'd clean my radiator well before it got into 'deep red'

Soundguy

 

[SkyPup]

Oil is both a lubricant and a coolant.

Your operational oil temperature should run about 15-25* greater than your radiator fluid temperature, if it is much higher than that, you'll need an additional oil cooler.

Using synthetic oil instead of dino oil usually drops oil temps around 10-15*.

 

[greg_g]

OK. To keep the oil purists happy, correct my above to read:

The only purpose of coolant - is to cool. The primary purpose of oil is to lubricate. In conjunction with a properly maintained cooling system, oil can have secondary cooling properties (or else why not put oil in the radiator?).

And if it wasn't for the oil-cooled turbo-charger on my Mercedes, the $300 oil cooler would be redundant.

None of this changes the fact that George should be trying to RESOLVE his overheating problem, not find ways to work around it.

//greg//

 

[leslie428]

The two hp you are loosing is due to an EPA engine. My Jinma 284 LE is rated on the block as 25hp and when I asked they told me it was the EPA option for $500US that I had ordered with the tractor. So environment protection does cost not only bucks but also hp!