How much should my ballast weigh?

[CrashandBurn]

My 3 point ballast project is almost finished. Basically it is 3- 2ft. pieces of sch. 40, 8" pipe standing vertical. I am filling each piece with metal stamping scraps. (very heavy)
My FEL has a rated capacity of 1100 lbs.
The ballast can weigh as much as 800 lbs.

 

[Renze]

How much does your tractor weigh, whats the rear axle and tire weight rating, and what can the 3pt do ?

 

[RoyJackson]

Your tractor's or loader's manual(s) may have ballasting information, so that's the first place to look.
Otherwise, there is a wealth of information on the Internet about ballasting...just do a search. Most will discuss larger tractors then our CUTs, so scale the weight as required.
Here's a starting point:
http://www.extension.iastate.edu/Publications/PM2089g.pdf

 

[CrashandBurn]

The tractor manual says you should use ballast for safety but gives no details.
The tractor weights 1960 lbs and the 3 point has a capacity of 1650 lbs at the lift points, and 1200 lbs 24in behind lift points.

 

[RoyJackson]

The tractor manual says you should use ballast for safety but gives no details.
The tractor weights 1960 lbs and the 3 point has a capacity of 1650 lbs at the lift points, and 1200 lbs 24in behind lift points.

600 lbs would be a good start. If you lose traction, you can add more.

 

[Renze]

The tractor weights 1960 lbs and the 3 point has a capacity of 1650 lbs at the lift points, and 1200 lbs 24in behind lift points.

Then i wouldnt go over the 800 pounds you estimated in your first post.
The rear end shouldnt be so heavy that it doesnt bounce up anymore when driving through a pothole with the front axle, because then the front axle and tractor chassis has to take the full bounce.

 

[OldMcDonald]

I have never been able to wrap my brain around the US assumption that everything has to be done with a FEL. Why? I admit they can be useful, and I owned a tractor with one attached between 1976 and 1979. There are usually easier and cheaper ways to do things, so why do posters think a FEL is essential?

 

[Beltzington]

I think you answered your question with your user ID; you're OLD McDonald. :laughing:

This is off topic but I think in the US many of us, especially CUTS owners use their tractor for property maintenance not farming. Half of the things I do on my small 8-acres I do with the FEL. This weekend I moved several thousand pounds of tree trimmings preparing burn piles for tomorrow. Moving dirt, firewood, bags of concrete, unloading supplies from trailers etc. Nothing but an FEL would make these tasks easier. I grew up on a farm and worked with and around farming equipment for many years and as you said the FEL was not a key player that it has become in today's rural culture.

 

[Beltzington]

To the original OP question. Try looking in your FEL manual that is where the ballast specific information is for my tractor. For Example:

REQUIRED MINIMUM BALLAST FOR 770, 790 AND 3005 TRACTORS
Ballasta
Fluid-filled rear tires and 280 kg (617 lb) of 3-Point hitch ballastb

REQUIRED MINIMUM BALLAST FOR 3203 TRACTOR
Option Ballasta
1 Fluid-filled rear tires
2 Two rear wheel weights per wheel and 120 kg (260 lb) of 3-Point hitch ballastb
3 200 kg (440 lb) of 3-Point hitch ballastb

 

[plumbstraight]

Personally I think a moderate amount of ballast is ok. But filling tires plus hanging all the three pt will handle is asking for trouble.

Is hard on the geartrain, all the weight is on one bearing in the front axle from the load plus the tractor.

There are a lot of tractors that have been broken in half at the tranny by counterbalancing too much.

 

[easygo]

There are a lot of tractors that have been broken in half at the tranny by counterbalancing too much.

Overloading the hitch will result in damage but if one stays within the reasonable range of ballast it should be fine.
I have heard of damaging front axles due to lack of proper ballast in the rear and rear wheel loosing traction too easily as well. Even the manufacturers recommend ballast on the 3pt hitch.

 

[RoyJackson]

Personally I think a moderate amount of ballast is ok. But filling tires plus hanging all the three pt will handle is asking for trouble.

Is hard on the geartrain, all the weight is on one bearing in the front axle from the load plus the tractor.

There are a lot of tractors that have been broken in half at the tranny by counterbalancing too much.

I've never hear or read of a tractor breaking in half from rear ballast...have any examples you know of?

I, as well as many of us (very possibly a majority of TBNers), do fill the tires (more for stability then ballast) and use ballast on the 3PH. The operator's manual for the Deere loaders I'm familar with recommend it.

The only time I have heard of not filling the rear tires is if there's a backhoe installed. I'm pretty sure that applied to some Kubotas only though.

 

[Renze]

There are a lot of tractors that have been broken in half at the tranny by counterbalancing too much.

They have broken without counterbalance too... Biggest reason is too little lateral stability to work with older loaders that didnt come standard with rear axle pushbars yet. Most tractors can take the vertical bending, but the lateral force, applied at the most narrow part (directly behind the clutch housing) is what kills tractors.

Oh and some kubota farm utility tractors still broke in half despite loader frame.

 

[SweBota]

The tractor weights 1960 lbs and the 3 point has a capacity of 1650 lbs at the lift points, and 1200 lbs 24in behind lift points.

Then i wouldnt go over the 800 pounds you estimated in your first post.

I second that, usually heavy is good, but from my experience a good rule of thumb is half the lift point capacity, and that is exactly 825 lbs in your case. Including the tools, chains and other stuff you may carry there as well!

On my old Kubota 2550 the manual says "Rear lift (at ends): 2,425 lbs [1099 kg]"

I use a 500 kg (1100 lbs) ballast plus some tools, chains and stuff, and I find this very balanced. Snow performance is like night and day as is off-road stability compared to un-ballasted.

My FEL only lifts 400 kg while a modern FEL on the same size machine would do much more, so compared to the FEL capacity the ballast is on the heavy side, but I find it very appropriate in snow with chains and a 400 kg plow attached to the lower quick mount, to the point that I never bother taking the FEL off during winter, I just leave it raised and empty.

Would be interested in hearing others experience compared to this "half of the 3pt capacity" rule.

BR /Marcus

 

[CrashandBurn]

Thanks to everyone for your replys, my dealer wasn't really sure but his mechanic (30 years of tractor experience) said he always heard 60/40.
In other words 60% bucket, 40% ballast, so I'm going to start with 660 lbs of ballast. I can add up to 180 lbs later...........

 

[CrashandBurn]

finished..............

darn, my attachments didn't load

 

[OldMcDonald]

plumbstraight, I agree with you. As Beltzington said, and I cannot argue, I am old, but we never needed weights with the tractors as old as me either. My modern NH has front weights and ballasted tyres as standard. It is enough to keep it on the ground at max tpl lift. I would not add more. If you need more than the manufacturer sells the machine with you need a bigger tractor.