How not to change your mower blades

   / How not to change your mower blades #21  
Well, cleaning the spark plug didn't fix the remaining issue. After about 15-20 minutes of running, the motor starts hunting (I can see the governor wobbling back and forth) and wanting to stall under load. Eventually it gets to the point where I can't baby it any more and it stalls out and won't start again until it cools. Cross my fingers that a fresh spark plug will fix it, because that's the only thing left I haven't changed.
Last time I had an engine behave this exact way (B&S 16hp single), it was a loose exhaust valve seat. Run 10-15 then die until it cooled.
 
   / How not to change your mower blades #22  
I never thought of that. It could have been my problem, too.
 
   / How not to change your mower blades #24  
Local guy said about $50. Pull it apart and rework with new seat. I do believe the seats were simply staked in on this particular model, so if yours is the same, could be simple. Of course, it might not actually be your problem. You could also have a seizing crank due to either the initial shock when hitting the stump, or a spun bearing due to the fuel in the oil after.

I ended up buying a rebuilt engine at an estate sale for $100. :)
 
   / How not to change your mower blades #25  
Sure as heck sounds like a fuel problem to me. Either fuel delivery (fuel pump? ) or still a carb problem.

My money would be on the fuel pump, though. Or fuel filter?
 
   / How not to change your mower blades
  • Thread Starter
#26  
Sure as heck sounds like a fuel problem to me. Either fuel delivery (fuel pump? ) or still a carb problem.
My money would be on the fuel pump, though. Or fuel filter?

No fuel pump in this engine--gravity feed. Regarding the carb/filter, maybe oil ran up into the carb when I flipped the mower over and is fouling it up? I could pull the carb open easily enough and see what it looks like in there.
 
   / How not to change your mower blades #27  
Would definitely be worth the 30 minutes it would take to look. Get some carb cleaner in there as well if you have it apart.

Is there a filter in the tank?

Sounds to me like the carb bowl is filling up slowly with enough gas to run for a few minutes, then can't keep up.

Maybe something was dislodged in the tank, plugging the gas line. Quick burst of compressed air up the gas line into the tank might help. Gas cap removed, of course.
 
   / How not to change your mower blades
  • Thread Starter
#28  
I opened up the carb today. The bowl, at least, looks clean. I also looked at the fuel filter (none in the tank--just in-line) and it wasn't visibly gunked up, which I assume it would be if the oil had leaked up through the carb into the line.

On a related note, I went to talk to a neighbor who I know has a mower that is out-of-commision. Supposedly a starter issue--engine runs fine. I asked if I could take a poke at it and see if I could get it running again, and if so, whether he'd make me a good deal on it. It's a 50", 22 HP Toro, so it'd be a real step up from my current setup. I could hear the solenoid click, but the starter didn't spin. I got no voltage at the starter lug. I pulled the starter and hooked it up directly to the battery. At first, it didn't spin, but later it did. I turned it by hand a little, so maybe I loosened it up. It felt pretty rough while turning, but I don't know if it's supposed to feel that way. The other thing that was unexpected was that the worm gear was fully extended, and stayed that way. I'm not an expert on starters by any means, but that doesn't seem right to me. It seems odd that the starter would always be spinning when the motor was spinning. I also pulled the solenoid so I could get a better look at it, and sure enough, 12 volts on the battery side (as expected), a thunk when the ignition is turned, but no voltage on the starter side. Jumping the starter directly off the battery, I could get it to turn after I freed it up by hand, but it was really weak. At first, I thought the battery was low, but I tried several different batteries that I was sure were fresh, and none of them could get the motor to turn over decisively.

Currently, my diagnosis is, at least, bad solenoid, and probably also bad starter. I don't really know how motors work, electrically, but I have a hunch that a failing motor could cause excessive current draw, thereby burning out the solenoid. Is that right?
 
   / How not to change your mower blades #29  
I just bought a mower lift tonight at TSC, it works great for getting to the blades.
 
   / How not to change your mower blades #30  
Currently, my diagnosis is, at least, bad solenoid, and probably also bad starter. I don't really know how motors work, electrically, but I have a hunch that a failing motor could cause excessive current draw, thereby burning out the solenoid. Is that right?
Correct.

Aaron Z
 

Tractor & Equipment Auctions

2011 Ford F-250 Omaha Service Truck (A50323)
2011 Ford F-250...
2005 KUBOTA L39 BACKHOE (A51242)
2005 KUBOTA L39...
2013 John Deere 824K (A52128)
2013 John Deere...
2018 GENIE GTH-636 TELESCOPIC FORKLIFT (A51242)
2018 GENIE GTH-636...
2015 Kenworth T400 T/A Vactor 2100 Combination Sewer Jetter Vacuum Truck (A50323)
2015 Kenworth T400...
19008 (A48082)
19008 (A48082)
 
Top