How Rought Is Too Rough?

[DanR67]

Try not to spin and make holes as these will make it tougher to maintain the level if you again drive in one.

Egon

Hi folks,

I've put @ 9 hrs on my B7610 - had it 2 weeks tomorrow - but I've worked it a bit. I'm still working on the finer points of drive & FEL coordination - making DEEP ruts is suprisingly easy! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif I have typically kept my rpms @ 1700 - bumping up to 2000 - 2200 if working the FEL hard or *in transit* to my brush pile.

Another "breaking in period" question: how does everyone feel about frequent stopping / starting engine vs. letting engine run @ low idle?

I've probably spent 12 - 13 hrs WITH the tractor - but I've mostly left it "purring" @ 1000 rpms while I'm filling up the lawn cart (by hand), for example. I figure it's easier on the engine / starter - and I've only just topped up the fuel for the first time. (@ 4.5 out of 5.3 gal capacity) Environmentally speaking - I'd like to shut if off in between "brush runs". My wife swears the dealer said "let it run" - I don't remember - I had orange in my eyes..... /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

Very good advice here for a new operator, btw - thanks!

Dan

 

[BXMMCC]

If you want trouble free longevity, don't even think of working the tractor (especially a new engine) at 1200-1400 RPM. That's called lugging and it's a definite NO-NO. Please!
Also, when working, keep it in low range. High is OK for transport, or after it's broken in, light dry grass cutting on level ground.

 

[SCB]

Dealer told me to not let it idle too much in the beginning. Also told me to run it at 70-80 % while working. But I have a bx-23 which is a different motor.

 

[fishdoc]

I've got 18 hrs on my 7610 in two weeks. I'm clearing brush with the FEL and blade and I've tilled up about 1/4 acre along with grass cutting. I've scraped paint and gotten it dirty making it do what I believe tractors do. I've knocked things around underneath already. The parking brake linkage came undone once and I bent the flimsy speed control thingy against the pedal causing a surprise when I didn't stop when letting off. All easily fixed. This little tractor is amazing. I make it a point to run the engine at variable speeds between 1800 and PTO speed and its never at one speed for more than about 15 minutes. I didn't get this thing to baby it and really the hard work I have for it will all be done in 100 hours... I can't wait for 50 hours so this is what I'm doing. If something wears out prematurely then so be it...... I doubt if it will.

 

[Egon]

It has been alleged that the most wear on an engine occurs at startup. It is also said that long periods of idling will carbon up the rings and valves.

Keeping Rpm's up while working makes for faster hydraulic's response.

And as an afterthought; check for loose bolts on a regular schedule.

Egon

 

[fishman]

snmhanson,

If you're going to be doing a lot of loader work do yourself a favor and get a toothbar. I ran my 2910 for the first year and a half without one, then popped the $300 for a toothbar. The difference is night and day in capabilities.

And as Trescrows said, don't ram your loader into objects. But it's ok to push up to them and engage the object, then use the tractor and loader hydraulics to lever and push on it. If your tractor starts to hop and jump like you're talking about, let up on the hydro pedal. Less pedal = more torque, something it took me a while to get used to.

With the toothbar, the loader bucket has something to jam into or under the offending object and pry on it. While others have stated that the loader isn't for digging, I've found mine to be quite capable of digging out mixed dirt and rock . . . much better at it than my box blade. It's no backhoe, I'll be the first to admit, but a toothbar equipped loader is a pretty formidable tool on the 7800/2910 chassis.

I used mine the other day to clear a 30x40 area grown up in brush and trees to 6" diameter in preparation for construction of a pole barn. The trees I either pushed over or broke off and pushed everything up into a pile, dumped some diesel on it, then flicked a match at it and drank a couple of cold ones while I manned the garden hose. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif What would have taken me a day or two and guaranteed a case of poison ivy took me less than an hour and allowed me to vent a few frustrations and release some angst. Life is good.

Anyway, you are on the right track. Up those rpm's and have fun.

 

[frank_f15]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was keeping the RPMs down around 1200- )</font>

Thats not enough rpm. u need to run about 1800 to 2000 for good loader work. just vary the rpm once in awhile, and make sure u stay in 4wd for loader work.

 

[snmhanson]

Thanks for all the advice. I am now keeping the RPMs in the 1800-2200 range with an occasional jolt up to 2500 and not keeping them at the same speed for more than five to ten minutes. I also keep it in FWD and low gear most of the time but I ran it in medium for a little while while I was moving and spreading some soil from my big dirt pile (is medium ok for regular FEL work like that or should I always keep it in low when working?). The tractor runs much better of course and is more fun to use. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif I still notice that the tractor is working a little harder when scooping dirt with the FEL but it does the job and doesn't bog down now. There's always going to be SOME noticable change in power when using the FEL, right? Occasionally when I get a large load the bucket refuses to come up at first but that is because of my technique rather than any lack power. If I remember to scoop the blade up as I'm digging in I can get an overflowing load and come away just fine. Anyway, things are improving and I am about twice as productive as I was during that first hour of use. I still only have about three hours total though. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif I'm going to have to block out a few days in my schedule so I can get some hours under my belt. And I'm going shopping next week for a box blade and maybe a tooth bar, that should help with my ripping project. Thanks again for the input.

Matt

 

[Henro]

<font color="blue">And I'm going shopping next week for a box blade and maybe a tooth bar </font>

WHAT???? No toothbar yet?

I think you got that maybe in front of the wrong attachment!

No, on second thought...its in the wrong sentence! No maybe's about either the box blade and tooth bar...you need both...trust us... /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[DanR67]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( It has been alleged that the most wear on an engine occurs at startup. It is also said that long periods of idling will carbon up the rings and valves.

Egon )</font>

Damned if you do - damned if you don't! /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

I opted to shut the engine off this weekend instead of prolongued idling. With @ 7.5 hours or *work* (Spring Cleanup is DONE!) - I only added 2.5 hrs to the hour-meter. (Doing mostly leaf pickup - so lots of raking & dumping in the cart - not much FEL work.)

Like fishdoc mentioned - I too had a minor problem with the parking brake - a small cotter pin went missing, and the lever arm came our of the parking brakes' "toothed bracket". Replaced the cotter pin with a small finish nail - presto - all OK.

Went through the maintenance checks - did my first 10 hr FEL loader greasing - quick & easy. I DID find two small bolts (hinge pin retainers) were not fully tightened!! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Like fishdoc mentioned - the B7610 is one great little tractor!

Dan