How should I have done this...and what should I do now? (PICS)

KYKub · Dec 13, 2015

I have a sandstone walkway that was cut from a large single slab of stone (my father quarried stone and installed this for us 12 years ago). It broke into 3 pieces during transport and over the years the cracks had widened so I wanted to try to slide the pieces tighter. The stone is about 4" thick and probably weights a ton and a half or so. I couldn't get the BX into position to "push" so I had to pull with a chain. Since I didn't have a hook large enough to grab the 4" thick edge, I used a spud bar; drove it in the ground as far as possible and as close to the edge of the stone as possible. Pulling on the bar caused the stone to move toward the tractor (and closing the crack).

Attached chain to bucket hooks, put BX in 4WD and gave it all it had. I expected it to slide a little easier and started having visions of a chain breaking and taking my head off.

In the end, the cracks closed up nicely and I am left with about 1/2" cracks.

So, a couple of questions:
1) Could I have done something to make the operation safer? Something about being directly behind a really stressed chain made me nervous. I know the spud bar looks a little suspect, but it actually provided great leverage and was stable.

2) Should I install some caulk or silicone in the cracks? Water doesn't stand in the cracks (gravel base) so I don't know whether or not sealing the crack would help with future separation from freeze and thaw. Anybody have experience in this area?

Any thoughts or advice appreciated!

rmk700 · Dec 13, 2015

The way I see it is it may not of been picture perfect method but you got the job done without any accidents. Well done!

Nice looking walkway even with a few now smaller cracks.

Risks are everywhere, it's about managing them well.

4570Man · Dec 13, 2015

If you are worried about it buy a 5/16 grade 70 chain with matching grade 70 hooks. Another safety measure is to throw a heavy blanket over the chain. If you were pulling with a D8 you might have something to worry about, but that BX doesn't have much hind end behind it. 5/16 grade 70 has a working load of 4,700 pounds which is way more than a BX can pull. If you want to be super safe use 3/8 grade 70 which has a working load of 6,600 pounds.

oldpilgrim · Dec 13, 2015

Sounds like call you need to do is wait another 12 years and do it again. I'd forget the sealer stuff.

zzvyb6 · Dec 13, 2015

Seams (ha ha) to me that you should be able to do better than 1/2" spacing. The stone pieces are related, eh? What's in the way of closing them in? I'd raise each piece with jacks placed at the sides of the crack(s) to form a teepee and then pull them in with your stake contraption or bunt one of them with a 4x4 and your truck's bumper. Then when you lower the triangulated pieces, the slabs will come together with very little gap. I do this with broken cement slabs that are 'repurposed' after removal from my driveway repairs. Pull the old pieces out, move to another location covered with sand, and shove them together. To seal the crack, I use liquid asphalt in a bottle and then pour cement powder from a bag over the tar to look like the original. Blending the cement into and around the crack region hides the break.

Coyote machine · Dec 13, 2015

You might be able to rebond the 2 pieces of stone with industrial epoxy, similar to what is used to seal granite countertop sections, BUT with freeze thaw cycles and shifting, water, ice, etc. I'd bet it would not work for long, if at all. 1/2" crack may be best to just live with it as it is now and see what happens over a year of seasons....

I would have wrapped your chain around your entire bucket instead of using the bucket hooks, but best and safest way is to pull from the drawbar on the rear of the tractor, and only from that low point of gravity. (This is where all tractor manufacturers state, as the only place to pull/tow on a tractor). Putting a blanket on the chain would also reduce recoil forces if the chain were to break.

I would have likely used a nylon strap instead of chain for the same reasons. A 2 or 3" nylon strap has a lot of pulling capability, and if it were to break, it would be way more manageable than chain section(s) flying at you.

Egon · Dec 14, 2015

zzvyb6 said:
Seams (ha ha) to me that you should be able to do better than 1/2" spacing. The stone pieces are related, eh? What's in the way of closing them in? I'd raise each piece with jacks placed at the sides of the crack(s) to form a teepee and then pull them in with your stake contraption or bunt one of them with a 4x4 and your truck's bumper. Then when you lower the triangulated pieces, the slabs will come together with very little gap. I do this with broken cement slabs that are 'repurposed' after removal from my driveway repairs. Pull the old pieces out, move to another location covered with sand, and shove them together. To seal the crack, I use liquid asphalt in a bottle and then pour cement powder from a bag over the tar to look like the original. Blending the cement into and around the crack region hides the break.

This sounds like a good procedure. A made up u shaped pull hook with much longer bottom hook may be a consideration.

davesl708 · Dec 14, 2015

Might try some ratchet tie down straps to pull them together and landscape adhesive to bond the cracks together. Can leave the straps on for 24 hrs for the adhesive to cure.

tbn7 · Dec 14, 2015

I run a steel cable through the chain links, every 1' or so, with clamps.

KYKub · Dec 14, 2015

Thanks for the replies. oldpilgrim, you probably nailed it - I guess repeating my 15-minute fix every dozen years or so isn't such a bad thing.

zzbyv6, I see how jacking up the edges would help the pieces settle tighter together. I never would have thought of that. If I feel froggy again soon I'll try that.

Coyote Machine, I probably should have used the rear ball to pull the chain, but I just installed the bucket hooks and wanted to try them out. Lame, I know, but true.

Daves1708, your idea about ratchet straps is good. I think it is too heavy for ratchet straps but a come-a-long would operate with the same principle. That probably would be simpler and quicker than using the tractor.

TBN7, do you mean you weave cable through chain links to prevent recoil if a chain breaks?

Thanks again for your replies!