How tight should your chain be?

[xyz123]

Here is how I explain to my locals.

Also lift bar tip while doing.

It's a simple thing dont over think it IMHO.

 

[arrow]

When i was working the wood and just a pup in the business, the grizzled veterans on the crew taught me to never tighten a chain so the bottom touches the bar. They embedded in me that a dime width space was the preferable dimension.
Now granted, my life as a logger and all the rest I worked with was about one thing...production. A loose chain moved faster and kept the saw viable for a longer period.
Also implanted by "the guys" was that a chain was the cheapest and fastest thing to replace on a chainsaw.
When I first heard that I said " well yeah but a sprocket is cheaper" and summarily got cuffed in the head.
Sensitive bunch they were.

 

[John_Mc]

The dime's worth of slack on the underside was a common recommendation back when solid nose bars were common. That little bit of slack was necessary to reduce friction of the chain around the tip of the bar.

It's not recommended by either the bar, chain, or saw manufacturers these days with the sprocket nose bars. However, the old habits die hard.

 

[Jstpssng]

When I was doing powerline maintenance cutting a lot of small brush throwing a chain wasn't that uncommon. One of my coworkers got into the habit of winding them up so tightly that he would burn up a tip every couple of weeks. OTOH the only time that I remember ever burning one up was when my chain got so old that it was losing teeth. About the time I that only had 7 teeth left I wanted to go back to the truck for a new chain but the foreman told me to keep cutting. About 5 minutes later the tip blew out...

 

[repete]

My local dealer has a lot of information on chain saws. Here is the site and if you click on a subject on the left column it brings up a good amount of info on saws, bars and blades. Welcome To Madsen's Online

 

[CalG]

One can not question the experts (not these days, anyway)

I want my chain to be just loose enough that No matter what, it will never get tight.

A loose chain can tilt in the cut a bit more easily, and a loose chain can be a problem in the drive sprocket when cutting "UP".. But loose.. is relative. I usually need to adjust tension every third fuel load. or so..

Now hanging below the bar! Just running smoothly.

 

[Torvy]

Thanks for all of this. Throwing chains stops production. Whether cutting for employment or cutting for fun (or anywhere in between), re-mounting the chain takes time that can better be used doing something else. I have been experimenting, but now I have a useful target to get it right. 2023 will see a lot more chainsaw work than the last 50 years combined. Y'all are good people.

 

[sandman2234]

Here is how I explain to my locals.

Also lift bar tip while doing.

It's a simple thing dont over think it IMHO.

That is the video that I said the guy was in the business of selling bars and chains. Too tight as far as I am concerned, but if you want to run it this tight, go right ahead.
David from jax

 

[John_Mc]

My local dealer has a lot of information on chain saws. Here is the site and if you click on a subject on the left column it brings up a good amount of info on saws, bars and blades. Welcome To Madsen's Online

Madsen's has some great info. Their recordings are how I learned to tune a chainsaw by ear.

 

[IrishLoader]

I didn't see it mentioned although a few touched on the tip of the bar. A bound/binding tip will throw an "eyeball" adjustment off also along with replacing a chain don't forget to maintain/flip the bar. I have an old dental pick (or as Harbor Freight packages them as "probes," ewww!) in my possibles box( sumthin' is gonna break box) to clean the oil channel and tip. Also flip the bar every time the chain is off during heavy use. Take a file (or a angle grinder for those of you that are adventurous enough) to any spots on the bar that are worn. You should be able to run a gloved hand pinching the bar on either side of the oil channel and no resistance should be felt. If so a couple of strokes with your file will knock these raised portions down and the bar will be good to go. Don't forget to clean the oiler hole if equipped, the one not receiving constant oil will be clogged with debris.