How to buy a truck?

[44trxfun]

Consumer Reports has some good info on how to buy. I think it's quite similar to the advice you've gotten here. I know that through their website Consumer Reports Online you can purchase the list cost of everything on the vehicle (requires that you know what you want). Then you can go armed with that info to the dealer. When I bought I narrowed it down to two dealers, was upfront with both that one would get the deal and stuck to it. It worked pretty well. Good luck!

 

[HRS]

I second that.

 

[_RaT_]

<font color="blue"> I second that </font>

Buying the wife new or Edmunds? /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[jpierce]

I like to use technology to my advantage. A great website is:

www.carbuyingtips.com

I download the spreadsheet and plug in the numbers. Usually I try 2-3% over the actual cost of the truck (which is usually much less than invoice) based on what I want

If I am financing, I get preapproved with the company I want to buy from.

After this, I simply to search for all the dealerships within my local area. I email them and state something like this:

"I am a very busy person with 2 small children (which I had) and do not have the time to go to multiple dealership to shop around and go throught "the process"

I have been preapproved for XXX and am interested in buying today if you will sell it to me at $X.xx. Please call me or return this email.

When they called me back, I basically stated to them that they were NOT to waste my time and that my offer was valid

It was successful both times with my F150 and my wife Honda CR-V. Both purchases took less than 30 minutes.

Good luck!!

 

[BB_TX]

RaT - I do the edmunds.com thing and talk invoice only to the salesman. My last 3 trucks I bought new and I typically keep one 8-10 yrs. I go to edmunds.com, price what I want, print out the invoice pricing, then go to the dealer. Typically pay $100-$200 over invoice, then deduct any rebates/incentives if available. Bought a new F250 SD last year and before I could start to bargain, the fleet salesman said he would sell me anything on the lot for invoice. The salesman then pulled out a list of little known rebates and went down the list asking if I qualified for any of them. I ended up with $2500 worth of rebates off invoice. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif When you buy new, ask the salesman to show you the rebate list. At the time, they were offering $1500 general dealer rebate, $500 rebate to small business owners, $500 rebate if you had totaled your old Ford /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif, and many others we did not qualify for. Sometimes there are also manufacturer to dealer incentives that the dealer may or may not offer to the customer. We got an extra $2000 off my wifes car when I ask if he would pass the dealer incentive to us if we bought. Don't hurt to ask. I think it was on Edmunds where I found out about the dealer incentive at the time.

 

[bontai_Joe]

Lots of EXCELLENT info above. Definitely use the internet to get info without the pressure of a salesguy breathing down your neck. And be aware that some dealerships use high pressure tactics to sell, they actually train their guys in ways to make you buy what you don't want, like the trick of holding the car you came in on hostage until you sign. Other dealerships are run on a much friendlier basis, hoping for return business, and recommendations. You will discover which are which after about 5 minutes of entering. I use the technique of carrying my checkbook in my hand and gesture with it as a pointer. Many sales guys have a hard time taking their eyes off of it. It lets them think the deal is real close. My last new truck was 1991 (still driving it), and i had actually got up and left twice with no deal, being called back both times, the second time I had made it to my car and gotten it into reverse. I got my price. I don't worry about what someone else paid, or if they beat my deal by $100. I want a fair deal, and I realize the dealer has to make a profit as well. If you make a real pain in the butt of yourself during the deal process, you can anticipate a lot of fun if there are warantee problems down the road.

 

[_RaT_]

Thanks very much for the suggestions. I do appreciate it.

 

[Jagmandave]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Just like you did with the tractor. Talk to the dealer, get their best price, and sign on the dotted line. If you are happy w/ the deal that is all that matters. There will always be somebody out there that claims they got a better deal. Take your new truck home and enjoy it. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif )</font>

This is what I advocate too. Sure, do your homework, but five years from now does it really matter more if you saved that last $100, or that you got the vehicle you wanted/needed?

Everyone laments "the process" they have to go thru to buy a new vehicle, but if a dealer doesn't run them thru the wringer, they all think they left money on the table. It's a strange world out there in car buying land. I did it for 30 years, so I kinda feel like I know something about it, FWIW.

My advice, buy what you like and enjoy it................ /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[HomeBrew2]

Last two vehicles via CarsDirect.com. Very happy.
Cheers!

 

[LBrown59]

<font color="blue"> My last new truck was 1991 (still driving it
</font>
<font color="purple"> My last new trucks were in 1989 </font> </font>
Still have both of them
The Dodge D50 is still in great shape with 98000 miles.
Haven't hurt it any.
The Nissan is a cream puff with only 33000 miles on it.

I also have a 1992 Toyota long bed I picked up a few years back. I'm the 3rd owner of it.Know the history on it from when it was bought new in 92.
This toyota is in ment condition and has 26000 miles on it.