How to bypass fuel hose and go directly to carb on Ford 2000

[lukeholl]

Hi all,

I have a 1972 ford 2000 3cyl gasser that has just started giving me issues with the fuel system. First off, it wont start without starting fluid, and once it is going it runs like a 2 legged dog. It spits, sputters, drops out, backfires, etc. The tractor has set out for some time and we are pretty sure there is something in the fuel lines. The carb has been cleaned with no effect on the performance of it. The carb has decent flow (i.e. fuel comes steady out of the carb through the drain plug once it is off), but the little glass filter is packed with mud. I mean packed. Soooooo, my question is....can we bypass the whole fuel system straight to the carb to see if it does anything before pulling all the fuel lines?

Second, I am having conflicting info about this...but does the 1972 ford 2000 have a fuel pump or is it gravity flow and if so how can I tell for sure?


Thanks fellas!

 

[Dave M7040]

Yes but with great care!

Use a fuel tank for an outboard motor with the squeeze bulb in the line.

Have tank higher than carb by a foot or more.

Don't do any crazy connections such as a regular gas can with a hose stuck into it.

You are dealing with a dangerous product which can turn into a disaster at unbelievable speed.

Do this outside and have a fire extinguisher.

Post some pictures of the tractor showing both sides of the engine so we can see what it has for pump and filters.

The fact that you have fuel coming out the drain plug and yet need ether to start it makes me concerned with your carb cleaning. It is to easy to miss an emulsion tube or small air jet.

If it has been sitting outside, what have you done to verify the ignition system?


Dave M7040

 

[lukeholl]

Excellent, thank you for the instructions. I'll attempt that tomorrow.

The tractor was already doing this before we cleaned the carb, hence the reason we took it off. I'm also gonna look at timing/points.

The ignition switch is fairly new (last year), so I doubt there is any problems there.

What is the general process of elimination for machines this old?

 

[Dave M7040]

Excellent, thank you for the instructions. I'll attempt that tomorrow.

The tractor was already doing this before we cleaned the carb, hence the reason we took it off. I'm also gonna look at timing/points.

The ignition switch is fairly new (last year), so I doubt there is any problems there.

What is the general process of elimination for machines this old?

As step 1 best to eliminate ignition system and its many components with this inexpensive tester sold by Walmart

You connect it in line with a spark plug and gradually increase the gap in the tool until the spark is just jumping the gap reliably.
Then you compare each of the plugs to make certain they are consistent between cylinders.

Try the tool on a well running similar vintage engine to get a feel for the gap the spark will jump.

If your ignition tests good with this tool, then you need to do a compression test on each cylinder as poor compression from tight valves, burned valves or poor piston to cylinder clearance means you are faced with a more significant repair.

Good spark and good compression, then the carb is the focus.

Carb cleaning means many things to different people. Ideally every jet is taken out. This can be very hard to do and if done wrong, damage to the jets happens and you have really big problems.

Spraying some carb cleaner and blowing some air around does not constitute carb cleaning.

The following image is not your carb but I present it to show you have a critical component, an emulsion tube, is hidden below the main jet. The emulsion tube has tiny holes along its sides. You have to poke them out with a tiny strand of wire so the dirt is moved but the hole dimensions not messed up.

To get the emulsion tube out, you need to remove the main jet. A perfect fit screwdriver tip must be used or the slot in the brass jet will be damaged beyond salvage.

Some small engine shops have ultra sonic cleaners which ]is essentially a bath into which the carb parts go and the liquid is vibrated at very high frequencies.

Check the spark with the proper tool and then the compression and report back.

Dave M7040

 

[CalG]

A foot long length of the correct size flexible fuel line and a squeeze bottle will get you past any fuel delivery question.

If the tractor doesn't run well while being fed through the carb via the "pony bottle", just squirt fuel directly into the carb throat just like you would the starting ether.
If the engine is will, A squirt of raw fuel very well may first flood the intake, then give a few moments of sweet running before turning lean and whispy. give another squirt and repeat.

If there is "mud" in the sediment bowl, I don't understand your reluctance to do a through cleaning. It's going to need to be done. Do it NOW and avoid uncertainty.

 

[CincyFlyer]

Hi all,
I have a 1972 ford 2000 3cyl gasser that has just started giving me issues with the fuel system. ... but the little glass filter is packed with mud. I mean packed. ...
Thanks fellas!

Is your mud rust from the tank, water/gas emulsion goo, or something else? I see many ignoring that little item.

 

[Soundguy]

'mud' in the fuel bowl is bad.

Yes the machine has a mechanical pump. just follow the fuel line from the tank to the front of the engine.

Yes, as one reader put it.. you can make a quick pony tank and force feed fuel for a few seconds / minutes. Holley carbs expect *some* positive fuel pressure.

Always verify spark first, before messing with fuel.

 

[lukeholl]

Okay, thanks a TON guys!

Saturday I took and went through all the fuel filters/screens to see if there was anything going on there. Everything looked to be in decent condition.

My next step is to dig into the fuel tank and see if anything is going on there. After that I am going to run through the ingition and spark system following the instructions provided by Dave M7040.

I'll keep everyone updated, it will probably be sunday afternoon before I get to fool with it again. Thanks!