How to cut a large tree trunk?
- Thread starter Buty
- Start date
- Views: 36921
zing
Platinum Member
Looks reasonable accessible. Can you start from the sides and knock as much dirt as possible off of the root ball with your tractor FEL if you have one? Once you get most of the dirt off of that, it is much less likely to want to fall back into the hole. Especially if you push the dirt back into the hole after you knock it off of the root ball. If it is close enough to the house you might be able to use a long hose and water to knock a lot of the dirt off too. A sawzall on a pole will let you separate some of the roots that are trying to pull it back into the hole too.
Not saying this solves all of your problems, but it would get some of the pressure off of the tree if you do decide to cut it up.
Thanks for the pics buty. I agree access doesn't look too bad but it's hard to tell slopes etc from pics. Did you say there was a slope? Did the tree fall uphill? I don't know what oaks are like for furniture wood etc up there but normally oaks are good right? And that tree looks like it would make some decent slabs. Now I haven't done a whole lot of milling - I have a double header Alaskan chainsaw mill that my dad converted to hydraulic drive driven through hoses from a Subaru powered power pack and I have started collecting all the parts for a bandsaw mill like a wood mizer which is on my bucket list - I also have 9 saws as I said (plus 4 dozers that don't quite go yet 
) and have a fair amount of experience with trees (got taught by an old timer before I was 10) - so yeah, I have got the gear and some know how and would sure have a go at that tree and turn it into something good.
Some ideas - 1st thing, clean up a decent area all around and under that tree (even the pile of branches looks a little close, you can burn most of that though but keep some larger logs to use around the big log). Then get some more photers of the rootball and the hole. The aim after that is to take the pressures off each end so an idea may be to get some notched logs parked under the tree then I would suggest getting a bloke that is tree wise with a big saw to give you a hand to top and tail it (could be a little tricky - will want to be planned) - if that bloke has a portable mill as well it all could work out well. How is access to the site though? Oh yeah, one idea for the rootball could be to lay a few logs across the hole so if it flops back into the hole it will stay up out of the hole and when the dirt washes off it will fill the hole OR if you knock off the dirt first you can fill the hole with sticks and light a fire when the stump comes back on top?
Just some ideas - I'm sure there will be some good ideas from the arborist type guys
) and have a fair amount of experience with trees (got taught by an old timer before I was 10) - so yeah, I have got the gear and some know how and would sure have a go at that tree and turn it into something good.Some ideas - 1st thing, clean up a decent area all around and under that tree (even the pile of branches looks a little close, you can burn most of that though but keep some larger logs to use around the big log). Then get some more photers of the rootball and the hole. The aim after that is to take the pressures off each end so an idea may be to get some notched logs parked under the tree then I would suggest getting a bloke that is tree wise with a big saw to give you a hand to top and tail it (could be a little tricky - will want to be planned) - if that bloke has a portable mill as well it all could work out well. How is access to the site though? Oh yeah, one idea for the rootball could be to lay a few logs across the hole so if it flops back into the hole it will stay up out of the hole and when the dirt washes off it will fill the hole OR if you knock off the dirt first you can fill the hole with sticks and light a fire when the stump comes back on top?
Just some ideas - I'm sure there will be some good ideas from the arborist type guys
compact
Silver Member
The roots that are still connected are like springs on a mouse trap. You need to cut close to the base so it can't kick the trunk up, using a long enough bar (like a 30") to permit working off to the side, and cut the tree using a felling cut (wedge etc.) as it it were standing, plus make side cuts so it can't split because if it splits lots can go wrong in a hurry. That tree wants to stand back up in a big way. Be very careful of feet etc. because some of the roots in front may be lifted. Can be done realtively safely but not a good tree to learn on and not a good tree to use a small saw on as your body will be in places it shouldn't be in.
ENC
Gold Member
Using your FEL you might be able to lift it back upright with the ball pulling it back into the hole.?. You can also cut a chunk out of the trunk near the base I am betting it might be hollow. Starting to rot and die from the inside out ground up. If so its possible with the shorter bar.
Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,641
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
Hire a pro to cut the log free from the root ball. Then you're done with the dangerous part. No fear of harm to you and what you pay will be for peace of mind and body.
Life is short, that tree could make your's shorter.
Life is short, that tree could make your's shorter.
dragoneggs
Super Star Member
- Joined
- Jun 9, 2013
- Messages
- 13,627
- Location
- Seabeck, Washington
- Tractor
- Kubota BX-25D, Kubota Z122RKW-42
Wow... now that looks like trouble! Thanks for posting the the pics. We don't get twisty oaks let alone that big here in the PNW and I am always up for challenge but I think I would let my ego suffer and leave it alone or hire a professional to claim some awesome wood for furniture. Good luck and be careful.
Oliver1655
Gold Member
- Joined
- Jun 25, 2010
- Messages
- 253
- Tractor
- Oliver 1655
First I would do a test cut to determine it it is hollow. If it you are on easy street. Cut the top quarter of the diameter. Then you should be able to reach from the ground to cut each side keeping in mind the potential for spring action.
If it is not hollow: You can get-r-done with a 20" bar, it will just take a couple of steps. Going from the top to the bottom cut 2 parallel cuts 12" apart on each side of the trunk, you then use boring cuts to remove the wood between the cuts. This will provide you space to reach your saw further into the trunk allowing you to cut all the way through the trunk. As you are cutting always have a firm 2 handed grip on your saw so you will be ready for a sudden jumping if the potential for springing/ snapping of the trunk should occur.
If you are not familiar with bore cutting. Check out the videos on YouTube.
If it is not hollow: You can get-r-done with a 20" bar, it will just take a couple of steps. Going from the top to the bottom cut 2 parallel cuts 12" apart on each side of the trunk, you then use boring cuts to remove the wood between the cuts. This will provide you space to reach your saw further into the trunk allowing you to cut all the way through the trunk. As you are cutting always have a firm 2 handed grip on your saw so you will be ready for a sudden jumping if the potential for springing/ snapping of the trunk should occur.
If you are not familiar with bore cutting. Check out the videos on YouTube.
Coyote machine
Super Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2009
- Messages
- 7,641
- Location
- Southern VT
- Tractor
- 22 SANY SY 50U, '10 Kioti DK 40se/hst KL-401 FEL, loaded tires, KB-2485 bhoe, Tuffline TB160 BB, Woods QA forks, MIE Hydraulic bhoe thumb & ripper tooth, Igland 4001 winch, & GR-20 Log Grapple. Woods BBX72" Brush Mower. Diamondplate aluminum canopy
If there is no way to persuade you to hire a pro just to cut the root ball loose, then I would clear the area around where you cut of all vegetation and a path away for escape from unexpected forces. Then take some wood or whatever and support the tree's trunk at a safe distance from the rootball, say 3 feet, and this will allow the trunk to come to rest on your support structure so the saw won't hopefully get pinched when the cut is nearly complete. The intent is to allow the rootball to flop back to the hole and the trunk to maybe shift a little but not have full twisting/dropping/kickback forces at play. Have a buddy nearby in case something goes wrong.
Also, show pics of rootball from bottom side in case further directions are needed, and some close up shots of where you might be cutting, 4' or so from the trunk/rootball connection.
Also, show pics of rootball from bottom side in case further directions are needed, and some close up shots of where you might be cutting, 4' or so from the trunk/rootball connection.
Just wanted to make an update. Thanks again for all the replies. I listed the trunk on craigslist for free firewood and it turns out a lot of people actually wanted it. After speaking with a few of the gentlemen, I agreed to let get one guy come and cut some of it. Since I could load it for them with my FEL, it was a little easier for him. He had a 24 inch saw that he just started on the end making slabs. So far so good he's managed to cut out about half of the trunk and it's still hanging about 5 feet off the ground. This person has his fill of wood so I am waiting for the next person to come and cut some. I believe the rest will be fairly safe and easy judging by the first half. The the rootball has fallen into the hole and appears to be holding very firmly.
